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| Fisher & Paykel GWL10 washer not draining | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thu Apr 7th, 2005 05:38 am |
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1st Post |
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FPSteve1 Grasshopper
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Me again from the msn site... Recap and update: GWL10 washer recirculates water but won't drain: tub full of water at start of rinse cycle, machine recirculates awhile, then beeps with code #37 "Pump blocked error " , but pump and drain not blocked. Again, it just recirculates, even with Drain Pump Test. No clogs anywhere. Essentially, the diverter valve isn't switching to drain. Although no obvious broken parts on the outside, replaced diverter valve with a new one from F&P (now with protective hood- fancy!) - no change in problem, but at least only spent $17. Have 120v going to pump and diverter valve during pumpout, both up in control panel and at pump and diverter valve themselves. NOTE: when wires are removed from diverter valve during pumpout/rinse cycle, diverter valve allows machine to drain out drain pipe. Plug it all back together, and valve closes to drain pipe and machine recirculates again. Are we now looking at the motor controller module for bad signals? Last edited on Thu Apr 7th, 2005 05:38 am by FPSteve1 |
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| Posted: Thu Apr 7th, 2005 02:06 pm |
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2nd Post |
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TerrysApplianceRepair Master Appliantologist
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Try it on Permanent press and see what happens.
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| Posted: Thu Apr 7th, 2005 06:56 pm |
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3rd Post |
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The Seven Master Appliantologist
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FPSteve1 wrote:Me again from the msn site... It shows that the diverter is at "recirculation state" when powered (ON) and at "drain state" when un-powered (OFF). Check the switching device of the diverter: by relay or by power-electronic device(triac or SCR). You may have to get the circuit diagram of this washer. F&P usually uses power-electronic device to control the washer motor. a) If by relay, the relay may be stuck "ON" due to melted contacts. b) If by power-electronic device, the device may be burnt and short-circuit. c) If the switching device is good, then trace the cause back to the electronic control board.
____________________ The Seven |
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| Posted: Thu Apr 7th, 2005 10:19 pm |
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4th Post |
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FPSteve1 Grasshopper
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Same thing happens on Permanent press. I'm assuming the diverter valve switching device is good, since I replaced it with a new one and still having the same problem. Last edited on Thu Apr 7th, 2005 10:22 pm by FPSteve1 |
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| Posted: Thu Apr 7th, 2005 10:49 pm |
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5th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Pump control in this model has changed. The pump cycles on and off every 10 seconds during the initial (60 hz) pumpout. Do you hear this happening? In this model, the pump is part of the switch mode power supply so if the pump thermal overload opens, you'll lose power to the control module. You can measure this. Is this happening? Last edited on Fri Apr 8th, 2005 12:13 am by Samurai Appliance Repair Man ____________________ Links: Parts | FAQs | Store | Beer | Home |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 8th, 2005 12:10 am |
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6th Post |
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The Seven Master Appliantologist
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FPSteve1 wrote:
It sounded that you have replaced the diverter valve AND its (electrical/electronic) switching device. If so, is the switching device a "relay" or a "power-electronic device (triac or SCR)"?
____________________ The Seven |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 8th, 2005 04:22 am |
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7th Post |
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FPSteve1 Grasshopper
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Samurai - Yes, it's cycling every 10 seconds, and if I'm measuring correctly and at the right time (just a Grasshopper here) it's losing power to the control panel. Seven- not sure how to tell if the new switch is relay or not. Just popped open the old one, and the round silver disc inside and plastic casing next to it appears burnt. Last edited on Fri Apr 8th, 2005 04:36 am by FPSteve1 |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 8th, 2005 04:38 am |
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8th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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FPSteve1 wrote:at the right time (just a Grasshopper here) it's losing power to the control panel. Hooold on there, Bubbalouie! You say you ARE losing power to the control board? If so, then that's the problem.
____________________ Links: Parts | FAQs | Store | Beer | Home |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 9th, 2005 03:23 am |
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9th Post |
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FPSteve1 Grasshopper
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In this model, the pump is part of the switch mode power supply so if the pump thermal overload opens, you'll lose power to the control module. You can measure this. Is this happening? I think so. Again, I may be measuring at the wrong place or at the wrong time, or have something disconnected. I'll get in there again. When exactly in the cycle and where should I measure? If I am checking correctly, and it's losing power, then it's still the pump that needs to be replaced? Last edited on Sat Apr 9th, 2005 03:24 am by FPSteve1 |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 9th, 2005 02:11 pm |
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10th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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FPSteve1 wrote: If I am checking correctly, and it's losing power, then it's still the pump that needs to be replaced? That is correctum! 
____________________ Links: Parts | FAQs | Store | Beer | Home |
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| Posted: Tue Apr 12th, 2005 03:29 am |
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11th Post |
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mopar X Master Appliantologist 
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did you have the sheet for diagnostic mode if not heres one for you Attachment: GWL10.pdf (Downloaded 391 times)
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| Posted: Wed Nov 2nd, 2005 11:55 pm |
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12th Post |
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dadiusfixus Grasshopper
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My F&P GWL10 wont drain and it appears to be the diverter valve. One authorized repair place said I should get the instructions over the phone on how to clear the pump from the authorized repair company located closer to me. They apparently want $250 to come and tell me this personally. I downloaded the PDF file with the diagnostic mode instructions and forced the pump-drain mode, but it only recirculates. I do not see the details about testing the diverter valve [other posts mention testing the diverter valve specifically]. If you have that information I can try and verify if that is the problem.
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| Posted: Thu Nov 3rd, 2005 08:06 pm |
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13th Post |
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FPSteve1 Grasshopper
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We finally gave up and took it to the shop - diverter valve just wasn't working, and I got zapped trying to keep testing it during different cycles. The problem was the motor controller module (about $130 for this model,) which also fried the new diverter valve we had put in. New parts and labor were $300.
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| Posted: Fri Nov 4th, 2005 10:55 pm |
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14th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Bummer deeude.  But, hey, it's fixed. And thanks for the update!
____________________ Links: Parts | FAQs | Store | Beer | Home |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 10th, 2005 11:03 am |
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15th Post |
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dadiusfixus Grasshopper
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Samurai, you are a god! I think the diverter valve would have been fixed sooner, but F&P did not ship the part in time for the weekend. No problema there. Took your advice and had quite a few beers, sent the wife to the laundromat and had a very relaxing weekend [so peaceful!]. Unless I am mistaken, the connections to the diverter valve are not polarized [note the AC 50/60 Hz stamped on the actuator] Just in case, for reference, I put the black wire closest to the side of the orange actuator with the part information i.e. 50/60 Hz and all is well. For those that missed the post about the default mode of the actuator [wires disconnected] it should be switched to DRAIN the tub. Unfortunately, my diverter valve failed due to a build up of hard water and/or other various crud and the small plastic piece that joins the actuator and the small lever that moves the valve was broken by the force trying to push the stuck valve. In case you did not take detailed notes on the direction the valve was installed, look inside the valve and the path that is open on the valve connects the tub and the drain hose. Before buying the valve, you should be able to disconnect the orange and black connector from the top, under the panel [turn off power first, of course] and valve should be in drain mode and not re-circulate. Enter diagnostic mode, press "regular" to initiate pump and you should be draining. If not, valve may be broken, or possibly plugged
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| Posted: Thu Nov 10th, 2005 11:08 am |
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16th Post |
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dadiusfixus Grasshopper
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FPSteve1 appears to have spent more than six months trying to fix his (original post in April, and "took to shop" in November) WOW, that's persistent!
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| Posted: Thu Nov 10th, 2005 10:49 pm |
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17th Post |
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FPSteve1 Grasshopper
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No awards here. We actually got it repaired in June, but it did take almost 2 months by the time we waited for parts, tried new things, bailed out the washer a hundred times, etc.. Good learning experience tho, and really enjoy reading The Samurai's website (and drinking beer.)
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| Posted: Thu Jun 14th, 2007 12:45 pm |
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18th Post |
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blitzpb Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I am resurrecting this thread! I have the same problem with the diverter valve not draining but continually recirculating. When I first found the diverter valve I noticed that it was getting very hot to the touch. I also noticed that as soon as the unit is plugged in the little elctronic plunger very s l o w l y came out and closed off the drain. I thought that it didnt seem right that it would open so slowly AND be super hot so I ordered a new valve thinking it would solve all of my problems and eliminate hunger throughout the world. You can tell from my sarcasm that I was incorrect. =(. Since I ordered a new valve I decided to dissect the old one. The little siler button inside was very burnt looking, further confirming my suspicions that the diverter valve was bad. Oh yes, before I go on, there was nothing stuck in the valve or any broken bits. So, last night I replaced the valve and plugged it in. Same thing happened. The plunger slowly creeped out closing the drain and the actuator got hot. I ran the cleaning cycle just to see and sure enough, I can hear the pump cylcing every 10 secs and only recirculating the water. Where do I go from here?
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| Posted: Thu Jun 14th, 2007 12:47 pm |
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19th Post |
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AccApp Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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The motor controller is sending power to the DV. You'll need to replace the MC.
____________________ "When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Thu Jun 14th, 2007 12:56 pm |
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20th Post |
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blitzpb Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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The MC is not repairable I assume? Fortunately for me, I live in SoCal so shipping is pretty quick. Thank you for the quick response.
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| Posted: Sun Jun 17th, 2007 08:57 pm |
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21st Post |
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grandlaker Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I have entered appliance repair purgatory. F&P GWL10 has served us well for 5 years but I have a problem now that has me at a point of frustration and defeat. We originally bought the F&P to fit a smaller space in a duplex and I had no idea about the difficulty of locating parts anywhere or getting service in a rural area. I am writing this post primarily to help others avoid the same mistakes I have made this week. Washer originally would not drain. Same symptoms as top of this post. Found the the diagnostics sheet in the top of the control panel. Tried all suggestions plus others (unplug machine, unplug diverter valve, unplug drain pump, diagnostics, let sit, etc.). Couldn't get anything to reveal. Even checked drain pump although water was pumping and recirculating at the point it would not drain. After trying several times, machine stopped powering up altogether. Unplug, wait 60 seconds, plug in and display controller only flashes. I now feel that sinking feeling that I have made matters worse. (First mistake) Called our appliance service man. Didn't realize he was not F&P factory authorized which means parts he buys and not warranted any more than if I buy them direct. Of course he doesn't have the service manual either. (Second mistake). He tries calling New Zealand and didn't even know parts are available from California. By the way for the uninitiated, F&P parts not generally avaliable locally and must be shipped from CA which takes several days unless pay an extra $25 for overnight delivery. After reading posts and understanding how the diverter valve works, I assumed I had a diverter valve problem that was simply stuck. Took off hoses, valve felt stuck, pushed on it and broke the gray plastic arm. If you are at this point, take the diverter valve off of the machine and look and how it is made before you start pushing on things. Anyway, it is now broken but I don't have power so I still don't know if it is the diverter valve or not. Of course, laundry is starting to pile up and wife is becoming very unhappy. From this posts, learned it may also be the motor controller. Couldn't find the diverter valve locally but just happened to find the motor controller from a local service company. Took a chance and bought it (cost $133 total), plugged in and no difference. Board still flashes briefly. Now I wonder if I have burned up a second motor controller. So I now have a machine that won't power, a $65 service bill, a controller that I can't return, and a broken diverter valve. Anyone have any ideas or suggesitons on why I can't get the power to come on. I assume it is not the display controller because it was working just fine and another post indicates those usually do not cause problems. Is there any way to check anything more or is it time to throw in the towel (pun intended)? We have the matching dryer so I would pay a few more bucks even though it is probably not worth going further, but a man's pride is worth something. I usually am pretty good at making repairs on my jeep, outdoor power equipment, and even appliances but this one has the best of me so far. Unfortunately I didn't discover this site until several days of "experimenting." Had I known about it, I would have gladly paid the one time fix it fee. If anyone who is reasonaly mechnical finds this post and is in a similar situation, I would highly recommend paying the fee for the help before you ruin other parts and further delay the repair. Takes too long to get a part from California only to discover that something else is needed. To make matters worse, we went to Lowe's yesterday and saw the GLW15 for only $599. I have always said that hell is a place where the condemned must try to fix trailer lights for eternity (anyone who has ever owned an old trailer understands this frustration). I now think working on a F&P washing machine will be right there as well. Last edited on Sun Jun 17th, 2007 09:08 pm by grandlaker |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 03:57 pm |
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22nd Post |
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Kschlichting Senior Apprentice Appliantologist 
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Hello, I was wondering if you could help. The washer will not drain. I have a Fisher & Paykel Washer Model GWL10 Ecosmart. I am getting an error code #37 Pump Block Error. I have tried unplugging the machine for one minute and attempted to restart the load but when the load gets to the rinse cycle the water just circulates and will not empty into the hose. That is when I get the error code. Additionally, I have tried the Drain Pump Test by pressing there REGULAR button to drain the tub but the water just circulates in the tub. Does this mean that the drain pump is not working or does it mean that the diverter valve is not working. I have also read postings that it could be a motor controll module. Where do I start? What is wrong with the operations? How can I fix this washer? Sincerely, Kurt
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 04:12 pm |
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23rd Post |
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blitzpb Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I have learned first hand that the problem is either the motor controller board or the diverter valve. You MIGHT get lucky and replace the diverter valve and all will be well. The diverter valve is only 12 dollars or something small like that directly from F&P. I was not so lucky. I replaced the valve and I still had the same problem. So, I had to replace the controller at 133.00. Bam, problem fixed. Good luck
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 04:51 pm |
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24th Post |
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Kschlichting Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Well I just ordered $200 in parts ($ 22.03 for the divirter valve and $ 144.28 for the motor controll + $25 overnight shipping, and we will see what happens. I hope this stuff is not diffucult to install. Can I assume the divirter valve is on the back of the machine or is it unter the machine. How do I access the motor controll valve? Does anyone have diagrams? Regards Kurt
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 04:54 pm |
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25th Post |
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blitzpb Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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The diverter valve is under the washer. You will have to siphon out the water left in the tube and then tip the washer forward to access the diverter valve. As for the controller it is under the control panel. You need to remove the 2 screws at the back of the control. The oanel should come off and then you will have access to the motor controller. Before removing the MC I would suggest taking a few pictures of the wire and plug layout that way you can look back at the pics while you are reassembling the unit.
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| Posted: Fri Jun 29th, 2007 01:31 am |
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26th Post |
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grandlaker Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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There are multiple posts on the diverter/pump/mc problems with F&P GWL10-GWL15 machines that appear to have the same basic operational functions. No one, however, has offered to help with a diagnostic approach so that you don't have to buy all parts or worse, risk burning up a MC because the wrong part was changed. If the machine is not draining, isn't there a way to know which part is malfunctioning? For anyone who was smart enough to find this site and these posts before you kept plugging it in until you no longer had power to the unit, don't keep trying to "reset" after waiting 60 seconds. Search the forum and read everything you can about it; write down the codes (if any you get) and what the machine is doing (e.g. is water pumping during the agitation?). Resist the temptation to just "try something" or you will end up in worse shape. My washer is sitting in the garage; would like to fix and give to a charity but I can't afford to try to fix it any more. Better to just send it to the dump and give the money that I would have spent on parts (and the matching dryer) to charity.
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| Posted: Fri Jun 29th, 2007 01:48 am |
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27th Post |
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grandlaker Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Kschlichting Search the forum and you will find a thread with a detailed description of the diverter valve. The problem is how to figure out whether it is working or not. I didn't get to have a chance to try this but you might. The connections on the diverter look like the end of a two prong extension cord. Make a 24 inch female wire connector that will connect to one of the diverter male plugs and a 24 inch male connector that plugs in the female connector that would ordinarily attach to that prong of the diverter. Leave the other wire connected to the other prong. Right the machine and run the two long wire leads under the back so you can access them. Place a 12V test light in the circuit and start the machine. If the machine is trying to pump water but the test light does not operate at the point in the cycle, then that may mean the MC is bad and is not sending power to operate the diverter arm. If the test light operates, then it would seem that the diverter is bad. I don't know if this will work but it seems liks it should. If anyone has a better idea (e.g. ohm measurement), then please speak up. You just may help save a marriage..... Also, is it true that if the water is circulating into the basket but just won't pump out, then you know that the pump adjacent to the diverter is working? Is is possible that a MC malfunction can cause the pump to work on some parts of the cycle but not others? Last edited on Fri Jun 29th, 2007 01:55 am by grandlaker |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 8th, 2007 06:13 pm |
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28th Post |
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Kschlichting Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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AH! It was only the diverter pump! I was lucky. Now I can send back the other part and get a refund from the company. My marriage is saved. Problem: I could not figure out why our clothes smelled bad. Prior to the fix I added a drain trap to the washer drain thinking the odors were from sewer gas. (Yes the builder did not install one) I noticed that when the diverter valve is broken that not all of the water is draining our and the wash water is partially contaminated with old water, making the clothes smell bad. Therefore if the clothes start smelling bad the water is not fully draining from the very bottom of the tub (which you can’t see without taking the agitator out) and you may not know it until there is a complete breakdown of the diverter valve. Thanks for all the help. J
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| Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2007 01:33 am |
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29th Post |
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grandlaker Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Did you still have power to the display board before you fixed your diverter valve?
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| Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2007 10:46 pm |
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30th Post |
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bigfatqueenofeverything Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Oh dear God in heaven and all his heavenly host! Sick baby and the washer just STOPPED draining. SO, please please tell me how to enter the diagnostic mode and what do the 0s and 1s mean so I can get a diagnostic code and come back. HELP It is hot and I will have to drain the washer by siphoning the water out and the baby is screaming and I just paid 5 bucks and got this message: Currently subscribed - expires on Sat May 9th, 1970 So, I was apparently ripped off for 37 years of my 99 year subscription. Or something. HELP!
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| Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2007 10:48 pm |
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31st Post |
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bigfatqueenofeverything Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Hello, I was wondering if you could help. The washer will not drain. I have a Fisher & Paykel Washer Model GWL10 Ecosmart. I am getting an error code #37 Pump Block Error. I have tried unplugging the machine for one minute and attempted to restart the load but when the load gets to the rinse cycle the water just circulates and will not empty into the hose. That is when I get the error code. Additionally, I have tried the Drain Pump Test by pressing there REGULAR button to drain the tub but the water just circulates in the tub. Does this mean that the drain pump is not working or does it mean that the diverter valve is not working. I have also read postings that it could be a motor controll module. Where do I start? What is wrong with the operations? How can I fix this washer? This is EXACTLY what happens to me but I do not get an error code cause I don't know what to do or how to read them.
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| Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2007 10:59 pm |
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32nd Post |
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bigfatqueenofeverything Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Oh thank Gott in Himmel. I think it is draining, but very slowly in the drain pump test mode. Well, at least if I have to move it out from the wall it will have less water in it. OK, now I am going to try to clean up that document so that I can read it when I print it out. You guys are helping so much and you aren't even on!
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| Posted: Tue Jul 10th, 2007 12:11 am |
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33rd Post |
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AccApp Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Big fat, Please feel free to start a new topic, in fact, I'm begging you. Please give relevant details so we can help you more.
____________________ "When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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