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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Front Load Washer Woes

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Grimmspropeller Grasshopper   Joined:  Mon May 23rd, 2005 Location:    Posts:  1 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Banging sounds in the Kenmore Front Loading washers! (model 970.C40042.00) I read some mailbag threads saying that there are two problems here: 1.) pulley is loose on the shaft 2.)bearing is bust and the whole back part of the tub needs replaced because the engineers at Frigitmore built it integrated into the plastic tub casing. Unfortunately my problem is neither.  The bearing is fine.  No rust, no leaks.  The pulley fits perfectly and extremely tight on the drive shaft.  The problem is that the whole metal tub/shaft/pulley have play if you push and pull the pulley in and out.  It's as if the pulley is NOT pulling the tub tight up against the bearing.   I have tried tightening the bolt that holds the pulley in place hoping that that would pull it farther down on the shaft and get rid of this play, but alas it doesn't help.   Is it possible to put a washer on the shaft between the bearing and pulley hopefully eliminating the play?  Help me Obi Wan Kenobi's!  You're all, my only hope.  The metal tub is starting to cut into the interior plastic tub housing during spin cycle. YIKES! noisy!
Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology Joined:  Mon Mar 21st, 2005 Location:  Otterville, USA Posts:  12943 Flavorite Brew:  Kirin Ichiban Status:  Offline	Rust and leak streaks are signs of end-term bearing failure; the absense of these is not a conclusive indication that the bearing is unimpaired.  Remove the belt from the drum pulley and spin the drum by hand.  If you hear noise, that's the bearing.  There's a less expensive bearing kit available here.
DB130 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist Joined:  Wed May 4th, 2005 Location:  Massachusetts USA Posts:  36 Flavorite Brew:  Guiness Status:  Offline	I just replaced the bearings on my Frigidaire front-loader rear tub assembly which is very similar to yours.  What a pain in the butt....  The inner stainless tub didn't want to come out of the rear tub half.  I had to use a wooden rod and a hammer to punch it out.  I then found that  the inner bearing was totally shot as it was covered in brown goop.  The dead bearing came out of the tub in pieces after repeated attempts w/ a metal pipe and hammer.  The cost of new bearings+bearing seal+tub seal w/ shipping came to about $45 after a lot of searching.  If I had to do it over again, I'd certainly consider buying a new rear tub assembly which comes the new bearings and the bearing seal already pressed.  I think it comes with a new tub seal too(but don't quote me on that).  Under $140 shipped! Last edited on Tue Aug 30th, 2005 02:21 pm by DB130
kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology Joined:  Sun May 8th, 2005 Location:  Calgary, Alberta Canada Posts:  1673 Flavorite Brew:  dickens cider Status:  Offline	now comes as an entire assembly-front and rear tub shells already assembled(bolted together with 17 bolts) and the spin basket inside and rear pulley installed- just swap it out,front boot,weights,motor and airdome are the only pieces to exchange. price is under $150.00 complete even up here in canada,sure to be less in the good ol' u.s. of a.
Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology   Joined:  Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 Location:  Eureka, California USA Posts:  2363 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Come on Kdog, don't just tease us........ Tell us a part# and where??????? That sounds to good to be true, is that price of $150 customer retail price or wholesale price?
kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology Joined:  Sun May 8th, 2005 Location:  Calgary, Alberta Canada Posts:  1673 Flavorite Brew:  dickens cider Status:  Offline	o.k. here it is  part #134453200 tub ass'y.  retails at sears here for 149.95(plus tip),designed so one person can replace it in the home(still time consuming).
Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology   Joined:  Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 Location:  Eureka, California USA Posts:  2363 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Well, wouldn't you know it, Sears in USA website doesn't list that part#. Cost $208 to $221 retail on multiple internet sites that I use for pricing. My wholesale price from Marcone: $195.19
binki Grasshopper   Joined:  Sat Aug 27th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  11 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Budget Appliance Repair, would you please post the part number for this? I think it's the answer to my problem. My FL washer is a Kenmore 417.40042990 which started staining my clothes with oil and making lots of noise. The nice man from Sears came out and said it'd be $450 for parts and another  $450 for labor.  Needless to say, he wasn't surprised that we declined!He verified that the bearings were shot. Can I ass-u-me that this meant the "rear bearing" assembly discussed in this item? Is that the part that always goes on these machines?
Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology Joined:  Mon Mar 21st, 2005 Location:  Otterville, USA Posts:  12943 Flavorite Brew:  Kirin Ichiban Status:  Offline	Why not use this bearing kit?
binki Grasshopper   Joined:  Sat Aug 27th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  11 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Is that all I need? That can't be right; the Sears guy was talking about $450 of parts!I thought I needed this: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=407639
Mad Mac Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology Joined:  Wed Mar 30th, 2005 Location:  Moorpark (via Motherwell, Scotland), California USA Posts:  1417 Flavorite Brew:  Newcastle Brown Ale Status:  Offline	S---s will nor replace just the bearings. Their argument (up until recently) would have been that it wasn't a "factory authorised repair". Given that Friggidaire now supply a bearing kit, I'd like to hear their argument now. Also, you'll pay about double the retail price for a part used as part of a repair job. Labour on a tub replacement - say 3 hours at $60/hour, plus trip charge, around $250. Add extra if the dryer is stacked on top for a helper to de/re-stack. I've been away from them for nearly three years, perhaps some of the current S---s/fellow "exes" could comment.
binki Grasshopper   Joined:  Sat Aug 27th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  11 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Double the price, I'd expect. But ten times? Outrageous. If you're right, and this can be done for $40, I will certainly be donating to the beer fund around here. (And imagining, but not going on, a serious whoopass rampage)I don't get it, though. So many people seem to have the same problem with this washer or ones like it and are so angry...if it can be a $40 repair, why isn't everybody shouting this from the rooftops?
Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology   Joined:  Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 Location:  Eureka, California USA Posts:  2363 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Binki, The part# is in the post just above mine. Here it is again: 134453200 and RepairClinc can get it for you CLICK HERE to order It doesn't show a picture but it is the complete assembled outer tub with inner stainless steel spin basket with all new parts for only $218.40 instead of $250.90 for just the back tub half with bearings and seals. The problem with just ordering the bearings is once you get it apart you might find that the tub shaft may be rusted badly from leaking for a long time and also who knows how bad the tub spider is at this point, seems to be quite a few of this breaking also. The complete tub assembly would most diffinitely the easiest way for a novice and then you would have an almost new machine.
binki Grasshopper   Joined:  Sat Aug 27th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  11 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Oh, I get it. I misinterpreted your post about Sears in USA not carrying that part. Thanks for setting me straight.Well, I'm feeling pretty confident after having fixed the dishwasher last night, and my birthday's coming up and all...I'm going for it. Osu, sensei, and don't be surprised to see me back here asking lots of questions...
jms336 Grasshopper   Joined:  Tue Aug 30th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  6 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Question: my frigidaire (kenmore) front load washer has become really, really loud in the high speed spin.  Is this the same problem being discussed here?  It sounds like a jet getting ready to take off! I can't detect any wobble or leaking oil, but I assume this is the bearing getting ready to go out.  It has been stable (not getting worse) for several months or more.  Wife is threatening to make a call, so need to move fast to save some cash. Thanks for any help with this.  I can't believe I found this discussion group, you all are amazing! John
jms336 Grasshopper   Joined:  Tue Aug 30th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  6 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	It's not a banging or squealing sound, really just a very loud whooshing sound.  Not high pitched at all.  Maybe a bit like surf crashing on a beach?  But very loud!
Mad Mac Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology Joined:  Wed Mar 30th, 2005 Location:  Moorpark (via Motherwell, Scotland), California USA Posts:  1417 Flavorite Brew:  Newcastle Brown Ale Status:  Offline	You need to take a look at the area around the pulley at the back - any signs of brown gunge oozing out?
Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology   Joined:  Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 Location:  Eureka, California USA Posts:  2363 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	I can almost garantee you that the noise is the bearing going out. Do as MadMac says, remove the back panel and look for brown streaking down back of tub. Even if no streaking yet still believe you are hearing the first signs of the bearing going out, (meaning seal is leaking).
jms336 Grasshopper   Joined:  Tue Aug 30th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  6 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	OK, I have a visual on brown gunge.  Will be replacing entire tub unit with part from repairclinic. Thanks for the pearls of wisdom, Oh wise ones!
wweasel Senior Apprentice Appliantologist   Joined:  Thu Apr 14th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  15 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	I bought a Staber to replace the Frigidaire POS that I spent hours taking apart. The replacemeent parts mentioned in this thread weren't known to me 8 months ago when I replaced the Frigidaire. All I can say is that I am very happy with the Staber. If you want to get more info, you will find it here, or you can email me at robert.perkins@hotpop.com. I have no affiliation with Staber; I just hate Frigidaire now.
jms336 Grasshopper   Joined:  Tue Aug 30th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  6 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	I am committed to the Frigidaire because I did a custom under-counter installation.  So I need a front-loader with all controls on the front.  Not many to chose from with those specs. Otherwise I would definitely be looking around for a different machine. John
binki Grasshopper   Joined:  Sat Aug 27th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  11 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Please, post how the installation goes. I'm having trouble convincing my spouse that we can/should do this repair ourselves.
jms336 Grasshopper   Joined:  Tue Aug 30th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  6 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Placed my order at repairclinic.com The whole assembly is special order, so I will report back when I receive the part. I expect it will be a few weeks. Hopefully I can tackle this. I found the instructions at this link. I can do most home repairs, this should be do-able I think.
peejay Grasshopper   Joined:  Mon Sep 12th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  1 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Wow jms336, that was a great read. I did the disassembly of my own Frigidaire (FWT647GHS - Canadian model) last night and found it easier to remove the drum by first laying the machine on its (open) back and lifting the frame up and over it. Took 90 minutes to take apart. Do you know how to get the tub bearing out of the back outer tub half? It seems pressed in, and looks like a press would be required to get it out again.
jms336 Grasshopper   Joined:  Tue Aug 30th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  6 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	DHL dropped my new complete assembly off Saturday (Wow - only $13 for overnight shipping on that beast !)  and I tackled the repair yesterday.  The assy was on back order at repairclinic when I ordered it a few weeks ago.  I have not done a lot of appliance repair in the past but am fairly mechanically minded and don't mind figuring stuff out as I go. Bottom line - it is not a difficult thing to swap the unit out.  The instructions at the link I posted above are useful, but I really didn't need them that much.  If you have some basic tools and common sense, you can do this repair.  A couple extra hands are useful when you go to place the drum assembly back into the machine, as the front weight will be on it and that makes it pretty heavy.  Other than that, it is just a matter of looking at the machine with a little common sense, removing everything connected to the drum assy, transferring it back onto the new unit, maneuvering it into place, and hooking up your hoses and wires. When time permits I will be replacing the bearing in my old unit and will either keep that around for a spare or might sell it to help with my costs.  Also, some $$ is going into the samurai beer fund for all the help I have gotten here. John
se@ofglass Grasshopper   Joined:  Wed Oct 12th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  1 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	You guys are awesome! I just got done with the rear hub replace on my own. I was able to some how get the boot off before I took the tubs out......know its all back together except the boot....(I did not read the instructions you posted first)...bummer ...is there a way to conect the boot from the front?
Moostafa The Ayatollah of Appliantology Joined:  Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 Location:  Afghanistan Posts:  606 Flavorite Brew:  Poppy Salmagundi Status:  Offline	Hello, my bumming friend. Fear not, for our esteemed, and sometimes reamed, leader, Samurai Appliance Repair Man, has posted a detailed procedure for replacing the boot in this thread.
HJV Grasshopper   Joined:  Wed Oct 26th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  2 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	jms336, What model number was your Kenmore/Frigidaire?  I have 417.40042990 and when I called RepairClinic.com about the wash group assembly item # 1063854 - they said it didn't show up as being compatable with my machine.  Was the part that you recieved the whole assembly - the front outer tub, the inner tub with spider and shaft ( stainless drum) and the rear outer tub assembly with bearing and shaft seat - all ready to install?  For $212.05?  The individual parts alone add up to over $525 - and that's about what  the entire new machine is going for now.  My predicament is that the bearing/seal has ruined a load of whites (see attached photo) and I am drowning in piles of laundry - if that whole assembly will work at that price - I'll wait out the long order time. Attachment: brownstainshirts.jpg (Downloaded 510 times)
binki Grasshopper   Joined:  Sat Aug 27th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  11 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Shudder. I don't know the answer to your question, but if anyone has figured a way to get those stains out of clothing, please share it here!  (Are they grease, rust, burns, or something else, do you think?)
HJV Grasshopper   Joined:  Wed Oct 26th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  2 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Binki,  I think it is grease from the bearings.  That load of clothes is a write off.  Fortunately is wasn't a load of my kids clothing - that would have been expensive to replace on top of needing to repair the washer.  Did you end up fixing your machine (same model as I have) or did you buy another machine?
binki Grasshopper   Joined:  Sat Aug 27th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  11 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Sadly, neither. Ran out of money, so until more comes along we're dragging our laundry to the laundromat and drying it at home. I hope to do this repair someday.
amstel Grasshopper   Joined:  Thu Nov 17th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  10 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	I have a Kenmore 417.43042200 washer. I have the same problem I've been reading about over and over here and at other appliance forums - the sudden banging indicating bad bearings. This washer is not even 3 years old! I spent 3 hours last night taking the whole thing apart to check out the drum and bearings before ordering any parts and found the "spider" assembly is cracked also (2 of the 3 arms). I wasn't too upset before I found this since I figured I'd get the rear drum with bearing from repairclinic.com for a little over $100. But now it would be over $200 more for the SS drum assembly! I then found this thread and am tempted to order the tub assy mentioned here from repairclinic. My question is, does anyone know for sure if this will fit my washer? There's no picture on repairclinic's site, but it sounds like the right part from the description in this thread. Does anyone have any input? Also, what's the deal with the Kenmore part numbers? Are all the 417.xxxxx washers basically the same? What would be the main differences between all these different 417 models? Do you think the tub assy would be basically the same?
Moostafa The Ayatollah of Appliantology Joined:  Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 Location:  Afghanistan Posts:  606 Flavorite Brew:  Poppy Salmagundi Status:  Offline	Hello, my questioning friend. If you order the part from our sagacious host's parts link and the bearings do not fit, then you can return them for a refund, as stated at the bottom of each and every page in this Pillar of Ideas, the Colossus of Higher Discourse, this repair forum.
amstel Grasshopper   Joined:  Thu Nov 17th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  10 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Thanks for the quick reply, Moostafa! I'm not just replacing the bearings though, I am considering buying the whole drum assembly unit mentioned by Kdog earlier in this thread. HJV later mentioned that repairclinic rep said it didn't show up as being compatable with his machine. That's why I wondered about all the different 417.xxx model numbers and what the difference between them is. I'm hoping if this assembly fits any 417 model, it would fit them all. I wonder if HJV ever ended up ordering this for his machine. You out there HJV??
Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology   Joined:  Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 Location:  Eureka, California USA Posts:  2363 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Won't fit any 417.xxxxxx machine, the 417 source indicates machine was made by Electrolux/Frigidaire. They make other machines besides the frontloader. The complete kit should fit all the newer frontloaders made by Electrolux. It may not work on some of the older models as I believe they used a different motor and pulley set. Should be no problem for replacing in your 3-4 year old machine.
amstel Grasshopper   Joined:  Thu Nov 17th, 2005 Location:    Posts:  10 Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Thanks for the reply, Willie. I bit the bullet and went ahead and ordered it from repairclinic. I wanted to try and find a repair place that would order the SS tub under the warrenty, and/or go to sears and haggle with them about it but I thought it unlikely I'd have much luck. And I wouldn't have time to do that until at least Monday, then if I got nowhere I'd be ordering it next week and with Thanksgiving coming up it would be a pain, not to mention the dirty clothes are piling up already, etc, etc. So $225 later, I'm crossing my fingers it gets here soon and works with no problem. I did find it cheaper at a couple other sites, but it was out of stock. Repairclinic seems to have a good reputation and return policy, so I went with them (and used the link here to help the site a little). Thanks again for the help and I will update when I get the job done.

Posted: Mon Nov 21st, 2005 12:26 pm

37th Post

totally frustrated Lurking at the Threshold   Joined:  Location:    Posts:  Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline

I had the same exact problem with my Kenmore front load washer and when the Sears repairman came and old me it would cost about $500 to fix I told him no way.  Mine was just 3 years old when the banging started.  Sears gave me a brand new washer.  And I didn't have to yell to get it either.  I told the repairman that there was no way that I caused the damage and that I know this washing machine has a history of problems.  (After I bought it, my sister-in-law told me she was having problems with hers leaking.  )  Since this is a newer model I'm crossing my fingers.  Have it nearly 2 years now.  I really love this washing machine and would hate to go back to the old topload agitator.

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Posted: Thu Dec 29th, 2005 06:23 pm

53rd Post

ccadwellx Lurking at the Threshold   Joined:  Location:    Posts:  Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	PLEASE HELP!  I am having the same problem - inner drum won't come out of the back shell.  I purchased (and just received) a new back shell but need to re-use the inner drum and don't want to damage the drum or shaft.  Will forcing it with a hammer damage it?  Is there some way to loosen it up?
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Posted: Fri Dec 30th, 2005 12:24 am

54th Post

ccadwellxx Lurking at the Threshold   Joined:  Location:    Posts:  Flavorite Brew:  Status:  Offline	Update...with liquid wrench and a hammer and dowel I was able to disengage the inner basket & shaft from the shell, but now I can't get the new shell/bearing assembly to slide easily onto the shaft.  Can I force it with a rubber mallet?  Will this damage anything?  Has anyone else had this problem?
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Last edited on Sat Dec 31st, 2005 12:15 am by

Last edited on Mon Jan 30th, 2006 02:12 pm by

Attachment: 16-03-2006 2-02-53 PM_0008.jpg (Downloaded 58 times)

Last edited on Sun Aug 6th, 2006 06:09 pm by binki

Last edited on Mon Dec 11th, 2006 02:43 am by firefighter131

rovman,
my washer (Kenmore 417.41052000 yr2001) front loader is experiencing the exact same problem as yours with the bearings being shot.  I was wondering if you replaced the bellows when you swapped the entire drum assembly?  How is the machine performing now? 

To the forum,
I was considering just swapping the bearings, but I believe I read in a prior post that they are pressed in.  How challenging is it to replace them?

Your assistance is greatly appreciated, as is everyone's help in this forum.  It is an honor to be a member
mcn
rovman wrote:

Last edited on Sun Jan 28th, 2007 09:04 am by mnygren

1. Sounded like a jet engine taking off for over two years but the grease issue just started showing up in the last few washes.
2. I couldn’t get the pulley off so I laid the rear bottom tub assembly face down supported off the floor by some plastic tubs … then pounded the pulley and shaft out of the rear tub assembly
3. Don’t damage the pulley nut retaining threads in the shaft or you are going to have some work to do to fix it (don’t ask my how I knows this). Final solution was to drill out the first ¼” of the opening in the shaft so that the bolt can get to the “good” threads.
4. I couldn’t get the rear tub assembly weights off until I got the pulley off. The retaining bolts were too long. When fully dropped they hit the pulley and still wouldn’t clear the retaining holes. Had to pull the pulley first. I am going to cut the bolts shorter … duh, upon assembly I realized that the bolts are compression and I could have just slipped the weights out.
5. Nothing else was a problem except the entire tub enclosure was heavy and kept getting hung up on the shocks when trying to pull it out. Make sure the shocks are well out of the way.
   

1. The shaft went back into the new rear tub assembly quite easily.
2. The pulley wouldn’t go back on easily. I used a dremel to shave it slightly so it fits not quite so tightly.
3. NO damage on the (newer version) spider arms but LOTS of grease and soap buildup. Took 1/2hr just to clean it up.
   
4. There is absolutely no way we could have gotten the front door boot back on (around the outer tub) without removing the boot from the front shell/door edge THEN removing the front weights. We put the boot on the outer tub (along with the spring) then loaded the weights back on THEN loaded the entire tub assembly back into the washer THEN reattached the front of the boot to the shell/door

Many thanks to all of you for guiding me!  My dear hubby thought I was off my rocker when I told him that I had figured out what was wrong with our 5 year old Kenmore front loader  and was  going to do the job MYSELF!  The rear bearing was shot.    I ordered the rear tub assembly (repairclicnic.com was a DREAM to work with and shop from!)  and spent Memorial Weekend doing the job!  Oh yeah, he was  as I began to pull out the motor, control panel, pump and then the bolts on the tub.  Kept saying it would NEVER run again!  Told him to  and move out of the way while I worked. 

Last edited on Thu Aug 2nd, 2007 08:18 pm by CheapScotsman

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