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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Amana side by side fridge not cold |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page:   1 2 |
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| Amana side by side fridge not cold | Rating: 
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| Posted: Mon Jul 10th, 2006 05:16 pm |
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21st Post |
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trouser chili Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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AccApp wrote:Just be careful in there, unplug the unit when taking off wires!!!! You can arc out a nice little hole in the evaporator and there goes your fridge. I saw a defrost heater that did this once. You're lucky you just hit the fan bracket. Yeah, I didn't even think arcing a hole in the evaporator. That would have been pricey. My usual modus operandi is based along the line of "it's already broken, I can only break it worse or fix it". Either way results in a satisfactory conclusion. I'm usually pretty happy if I manage to break something really well, and if I accidentally manage to fix it, there will always be another day when I have to take it apart again. Last edited on Mon Jul 10th, 2006 05:18 pm by trouser chili |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 10th, 2006 06:12 pm |
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22nd Post |
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machineguy200 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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AccApp, Thanks for the advice. Of course, I wouldn't know what an evaporator was if I tripped over it. In any event, I'll be careful. I've gone ahead and unplugged the refrigerator until I can get it fixed.
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| Posted: Tue Jul 11th, 2006 08:23 pm |
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23rd Post |
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machineguy200 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I replaced the frost limiter and plugged in the fridge (it has been unplugged about 24 hours). The fan did not come on right away but I assume that the freezer has to get colder first. Correct?
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| Posted: Tue Jul 11th, 2006 11:58 pm |
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24th Post |
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trouser chili Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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machineguy200 wrote:I replaced the frost limiter and plugged in the fridge (it has been unplugged about 24 hours). The fan did not come on right away but I assume that the freezer has to get colder first. Correct? It took a bit on mine. I closed the door for a bit and just waited for the evaporator to get cold. Once the defrost thermostat gets cold enough, it'll flip on the fan.
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| Posted: Wed Jul 12th, 2006 01:45 am |
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25th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Takes about 3 minutes of comp run time to kick it on with an already cold freezer. Closer to 10 on a warm one.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Thu Jul 13th, 2006 03:35 am |
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26th Post |
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machineguy200 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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You were quite right. The fan started up, everything is cold, life is good! Thank you all so much for helping. I have 1 other question. The freezer door seems to not want to stay closed. When the fridge door is opened the freezer door unseals leaving it slightly opened. Also, if the freezer door is opened then closed it doesn't want to seal properly either. If I open both doors, close the fridge side then push close the freezer side it will seal properly and stay closed. I suspect that the humidity has something to do with this problem. This problem SEEMS to occur only in summer when the humidity is high. We had a service call on this refrigerator about 3-4 summers ago and I'm pretty sure it was the component that failed. Is that possible? Is there some way to make the freezer door stay shut? Actually, I also think this situation is the cause of the defrost limiter failing. My idea is that the freezer door was actually open and we didn't realize it. The humidity caused a great amount of excess moisture to saturate the coils and everything around it. Eventually, it caused the defost limiter to then fail..... Does that sound plausible??
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| Posted: Thu Jul 13th, 2006 01:41 pm |
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27th Post |
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trouser chili Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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machineguy200 wrote:You were quite right. The fan started up, everything is cold, life is good! My freezer door didn't want to shut right either. I found that the door seal on the left side was binding up and rolling over on itself just a bit when the door was shut. I used a screwdriver to set it right as I shut the door and then left the door shut for overnight. It's now shutting correctly. I may have to replace the seal someday soon though. Anyway, excess moisture in the freezer I'm sure was a contributing factor to the defrost limiter failing, but I've also got the impression that's they also just poorly made and failure-prone parts.
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| Posted: Thu Mar 6th, 2008 09:35 pm |
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28th Post |
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rjlabs Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Amana side by side ARS2665AB0 6 years old Problem: Warm refriger two defrost timers were replaced by Countywide Appliance didn't do the trick! -one in late December -another in late Feburary Room temp on Refrigerator side Warm upper freezer section Cool & perhaps below 32 at the bottom of the freezer section Refrigerator is running, lights on, etc. True: there is warm air bowing out the back side of the refrigerator and at the toe plate True: the evaporator coils are cold, ice packed near the top True: the blower fan on top of the evaporator coils is NOT running (had to open up the pannel to verify that. True: there is no flow of water out the door when pressed Solution: Replace defrost thermostat After much searching (just try ARS2665AB as the model number or try PARS2665ABO) Find the part is a clip on defrost thermostat L48-33 degrees AP Wagener had one in stock R0161088 Part also goes by: PS192119 Bag on sealed part says R0161088 but paper insert inside bag says R0158920 Instructions on bag. Part thankfully says L48-33F and looks like a match. 1. Use the wire tie to secure the unused leads in a place away from the evaporator fan blade 2. use the cap ( M0321202 ) to cover the test plug terminals. From the front of refrigerator I replace the thermostat folowing plugs, jacks and wire color as best I can. However the old thermostat cannont be removed without actully cutting two wires that run through to the BACK compartment. What do those two wires go to, and how do I hook them up? Time to break out the soldering iron? How stupid is this design? For now I just cut them, put on tape and let it go at that. Frig is at least cooling again. Anyone have a wiring diagram and can tell me where they go and if I need to hook them up again? As of right now I have a cold frig which is welcome but the through the door water is still not operational. Perhaps those two wires? Perhaps the water bottle remains frozen. Only the Samurai knows for sure..... I seek only wisdom here and am truely an apprentice. Rick
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| Posted: Thu Mar 6th, 2008 10:12 pm |
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29th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Hope this helps clear it up a little. It is used on the line to get the fan running with a warm evap. Techs can use it in the field as well. If you jump it, and your fan takes off, bad limiter. Attachment: Amana Bi-metal.doc (Downloaded 19 times)
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Fri Mar 7th, 2008 11:03 am |
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30th Post |
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rjlabs Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Ahhh the "Trying to help" Samauri speaks with much wisdom! Just cut the wires? Defrost thermostat -- GOOD TO KNOW! Factory Service note when replacing the defrost thermostat -"The two wires that lead from the defrost thermostat are TEST LEADS for use during factory assemply only...cut them short where they disappear into the wall...Once cut they need not be replaced or repaired." I see as an apprentice Samurai I have much to learn in the flow and potential disturbances of Chi around parts. Why for instance does the master parts maker elect to include notes on how to use a standard wire tie (now that's real useful) on the paper insert for the part, yet elect to omit the above tidbit? And yes, the through the door water is now working. A continuing running compressor that is trying to cool down the frig without the aid of the evaporator fan running (due to a defrost thermostate failure) does tend to ice over the water lines. Even if you defrost the coils - carefully with a hair drier so as not to melt the very pliable plastic in that area - when you go to replace the defrost thermostat, the water storrage bottles may remain frozen. Time alone after a thermostat replacement solves that problem. Live is again good in the kitchen.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 4th, 2008 04:17 am |
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31st Post |
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Maggie G Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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This is well worth the $5 to sign up! Not only informative but entertaining too! My Amana SXD23VW had this very problem this morning. I was pleased to see on this forum that I wasn't going crazy when I said that the water dispenser problem seemed to correspond to the temperature problem. So, being whatever is lower than a grasshopper, I called a repair guy. On many levels he seemed good: 1) Answered phone at 8:30am. 2) Gave me a 1 hour window and showed up within it. 3) Diagnosed the problem just as you described here within 5 minutes. 4) Had the part on hand and did the repair well within an hour. 5) Charge $125 plus parts--seems to be the going rate..might even be a bit under market here in Northern Calif. Downsides: 1) It has now been 10 hours and my freezer is still at 55+ degrees at the top....frozen at the bottom. Frig is still 60 at the top, cooler at the bottom. The water dispenser works sometimes, sometimes not. Fan (of some sort) runs most of the time, but not constantly. 2) The repair guy charged me $202 for the part that is available here for $29.75. Quite frankly, I would have been fine with this (and indeed ignorant of the markup) if the repair appeared to have worked. 3) He had no explanation for why the water dispenser didn't work and suggested I replace the water filter. Questions: 1) What could be the problem now? I'll give the thing overnight to cool some more but plan to call the guy back if there's no improvement. 2) Is a 600% mark-up for a part typical? Thanks!
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| Posted: Thu Sep 4th, 2008 04:53 am |
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32nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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What part (number) did he replace ? Which Fan is running ? The Condenser Fan by the Compressor? (when running) The Evaporator Fan in the Freezer ? Can you get a look at the Evaporator Coil in the Freezer ? Last edited on Thu Sep 4th, 2008 04:56 am by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 4th, 2008 08:05 am |
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33rd Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Maggie G wrote:
Just out of curiousity, where in Northern Calif. do you reside? Really Northern or more like bay area? I'm in the real Northern California, "Humboldt County, Eureka, CA". If you're up in my neighborhood you might want to contact me if you can't get this figured out, (the tech that has already tried to take care of you should make this right under their warranty, since they really didn't fix the problem anyway, it sounds like!).
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 4th, 2008 07:23 pm |
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34th Post |
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Maggie G Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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RegUS_PatOff wrote
So, it seems that the evaporator fan wasn't running. The owner of the appliance repair place came today and found that it was disconnected. (He was very apologetic.) It started working immediately once he reconnected it and the freezer is living up to its name again, a mere two hours later. Even he didn't believe me at first when I told him that the "broken" water dispenser was part of the same problem. I printed out the first set of posts from this thread to show him. Sure enough, the dispenser started working again about 15 minutes after he left. Thanks! p.s. Love the appliance breakdown diagrams!
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| Posted: Thu Sep 4th, 2008 07:26 pm |
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35th Post |
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Maggie G Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote:
Yeah, bay area. I know it's not *really* Northern California, but that's the way I still think about it, having lived in SoCal much of my life. Will be heading up your direction in a few weeks. If the frig in our rental place breaks down, I'll know who to call! Thanks!
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| Posted: Fri Sep 5th, 2008 07:52 am |
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36th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Good job, It sounds like you've found a good repair tech for your area, he stood behind his work and the labor charge for your area wasn't bad at all. The part markup, now that's a different story!!!!!
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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Yes, just cut the wires! 