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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore 665.16382300 dishwasher - where do I find the thermostat?

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Kenmore 665.16382300 dishwasher - where do I find the thermostat?  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Thu Jul 6th, 2006 05:19 pm
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dgs
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Firstly - what an amazing site.  I have been researching here and have learned a lot already.

I have a Kenmore 665.16382300 dishwasher which has had washing and drying problems for a while.  I did the cup in the top rack test - water pump flow is good and the water is filling to just below the element.  The diagnostics are not giving me a good indication on the Thermistor but since I have no dryer heat as well as no heated water the schematics seem to indicate the issue is likely to be in the heater circuit which is separate from the Thermistor circuit.

My first issue is that I know I need to test the thermostat in the heater circuit - where is it and how do I get at it (and how many arms will I need?)? The thermostat is referred to as the HI-limit thermostat in the schematics - ie the one that stops things getting too hot (above 80c).  What is the best way to test the thermostat ? My assumption is I test for resistance and if it shows an open circuit when cold I know there is a problem there.

My second question is whether the thermistor has any relevance on the drying cycle - I think it just measures incoming water temperature and adjusts heating to achieve the right wash temperature and therefore has no relevance to drying. Is this right? (I can see this component inside the sump so that should be easy to test anyway.)

I know I have to test the board as part of this routine also (my other suspect is the relay on that board that feeds the dryer) but I wanted to have the above knowledge to hand before I start off.

Thanks in advance!

David

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 Posted: Thu Jul 6th, 2006 08:42 pm
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Chat_in_RI



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This should be as clear as mud:

There are a couple of "service flashes" on this unit for heating element failure that does not heat the water to adequately clean or dry the dishes.

For serial #'s that range from FM27 - FP33, you should have received a notice if you registered your dishwasher. Call for a free repair the service number on your label plate (Expires 31 December, 2006). 

Stainless tub part

1094552








Heating element kit with electronic control




Plastic tub part


1066313







Element, heating


There is a heating element issue for serial #'s FK30 - FR36. You will need to order the above heating element if it does not fall within the narrower FM27 - FP33 range.

Last edited on Fri Aug 18th, 2006 05:29 pm by



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 Posted: Thu Jul 6th, 2006 08:50 pm
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Chat_in_RI



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P.S. The T-stat is behind the toe panel attached to the tub, has 2 wires running up to it to help you locate it, part # 30 in the attached diagram...

Attachment: Tstat.jpg (Downloaded 7 times)



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We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.
Mother Teresa
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 Posted: Thu Jul 6th, 2006 09:21 pm
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dgs
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Thank you so much - I will check the serial number tonight - will I have to refer to a specific service flash if I call it in ?  Does this apply in Canada also?  (Just don't want them coming out then charging me the earth to do the job, but if it is a free repair versus me crawling about under the machine....)

 If I have to change the element myself because it is outside the serial number range, how easy will this be to do?  If the element has failed will it show up on a resistance check?

Thanks again

David

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 Posted: Fri Jul 7th, 2006 01:29 am
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dgs
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Well - I am just outside the range for the free repair but inside the range of the issue you describe - out with the mulitmeter then the real fun can start I suspect.  I get the feeling from some initial research that switching the element is a case of taking out the pump etc before I can access the element.  Sounds like several suds worth if I have to go there - here's praying for a faulty thermostat.

Update - you were right it looks like the heater element is faulty.  Got the element out using instructions for a kitchen aid (attached for reference - different element issue but same set up)  and measured resistance of the element - open circuit.  I am glad it was not the termostat - that little devil looks pretty tough to get out in fact, even though it is easily accessible.  Was not as tough as I thought to get this all apart - challenge is how I get all back together - everything is in neatly labelled little bags ready for when the part arrives now.

 

Attachment: 8178502A.pdf (Downloaded 2 times)

Last edited on Sat Jul 8th, 2006 04:48 pm by dgs

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 Posted: Mon Aug 21st, 2006 03:05 pm
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dgs
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Well I have managed to replace the heater element and everything is checking out in terms of measurements, diagnostics etc - unfortunately I have a problem with the keypad also - the active vent assembly seems to have failed at some point which has allowed water to get into the keypad over time leaving me with several keys shorted out.  I have ordered the parts to replace the vent, the relevant seal and the keypad (almost a new dishwasher so far). One concern I have - I was very careful to note down which wire attached to what but I have a nagging feeling my notes for the wax motor on the vent assembly are wrong - does a wax motor require the correct polarity (ie does it matter) or is it just a case of current heating wax regardless of polarity?

By the way - having put it all back together, including all the little card shields etc I swear you must all have 7 fingers on each hand to do this kind of thing on a daily basis.

 

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 Posted: Tue Aug 22nd, 2006 09:39 am
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No concerns for polarity on a wax motor, either way will work, not polarity sensitive......



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 Posted: Wed Sep 6th, 2006 06:44 pm
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dgs
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Final update - several hundred dollars in parts later - the machine is working as good as new.  I can see why people often resort to replacement and why the repair industry is struggling - the machine cost C$800 + taxes  when new 2 years ago and the parts to fix it now were around C$400.  

In my view the venting is a design flaw on these machines - its too easy for liquids or other unpleasants substances to get into that vent on the inside of the door when you are loading the machine to then work their way through the vent into the keypad over time. There is a seal between vent and fascia to try to stop that happening but high temperatures from venting when drying mean that wont last forever.  Ironically there are holes on the inside of the fascia which almost look like they were designed to let moisture into the keypad circuit board...   I dont think anybody could have designed in inherent failure after around 2 years better if they tried.

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