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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Jenn Air SVE47600B cooling van vents where?

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Jenn Air SVE47600B cooling van vents where?  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Jul 1st, 2006 11:59 pm
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rwfisher
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Just wondering....I know my vent fan is functioning, and the duct is clear. However, when the oven cooling fan is on there is movement of air through the duct.

My wife has commented on how long the cooling fan runs after using the oven (up to an hour!). I'm thinking a) the oven temp sensor is out of spec (I'll check that this week), or b) vent line has become blocked or something....


Thanks,
R.

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 Posted: Sun Jul 2nd, 2006 02:39 am
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Trying to help
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Your cooling fan does not vent out your duct work for your Down Draft fan. It is designed to cool your clock and TP. It is just blowing air toward that area under the main top. The oven vent does come out via the Down Draft area in the plenum where your filter is. On your unit, the cooling fan should not come on in bake unless the unit is over 500*. IF it is coming on prematurely, say around 250*, The PRB (power relay board or Bake Broil Convect board) mounted to the rear of the unit is bad. I don't think you have a sensor problem, if you did, the wife would be complaining about temp problems more then the fan. Turn the bake on, if cooling fan comes on at about 250* display temp on the clock, bad PRB.    



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 Posted: Sun Jul 2nd, 2006 03:11 am
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rwfisher
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Yep...it kicked on right at 220 degrees. What are the consequences of having a bad board? The oven seems to be baking well (except for the annoying fan!), and there aren't any problems with the top elements....

Should I just put up with the fan until something else malfunctions?

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 Posted: Sun Jul 2nd, 2006 02:27 pm
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Many a consumer has it this way for years until someone points it out. Usually you will start to see a calibration issue, temps off just enough to notice. It will not cause any damage, I personally thought that the fan should of come on at a lower temp when the units first came out. If you decide to buy the part, click on the blue link.

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=400658



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 Posted: Sun Jul 2nd, 2006 05:05 pm
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rwfisher
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The "5" on the keypad also has issues...you have to hit it just right to get a response. When it finally dies, I'll probably replace the keypad and the relay board at the same time. Why tear it down twice?

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 Posted: Sun Jul 2nd, 2006 08:25 pm
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Just remember when I said relay board prior, it is not the clock. It is a separate relay board that mounts to the rear of your range.  



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 Posted: Fri Nov 24th, 2006 04:59 am
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rwfisher
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Is the PRB the "relay board with shield, bake, broil, and convection", or the "relay board with shield, for convection bake"?  The oven went into spasms while cooking the turkey today...I guess that's a sign....

I'll check the wiring harness etc to be sure, but I suspect it's time to replace the PRB.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 24th, 2006 01:52 pm
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If the cooling fan is on prematurely around 225 as we discussed prior, and the temps are in the ball park, the PRB is bad.  The link below will get you there.  If by spasms, you mean locking and unlocking, cooling fan on early, FC codes, etc.  The link below will get the part to you.

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=400658



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