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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > No Cold Water From Maytag Atlantis |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! |
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| No Cold Water From Maytag Atlantis | Rating: 
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| Posted: Sat Jun 10th, 2006 08:45 am |
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1st Post |
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Jayrcee Grasshopper
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Hello, My Maytag Atlantis MAV6257AWW (Serial #17131314YW) Washing Machine no longer dispenses cold water. When I try to start a cycle when using Warm/Warm, Warm/Cold, or Cold/Cold nothing happens of course. I am able to start the machine using the Hot/Cold but when it gets to the cold rinse cycle, the machine will no longer advance. I checked the screen in the water inlet valve and it isn't clogged. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a multimeter, so if you have any suggestions on parts that I should check please let me know. I've enclosed a pic of my front panel, as well as, scans of the schematics found when I opened up the back panel. Thanks in advance!  PANEL  SCHEMATIC1  SCHEMATIC2
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| Posted: Sat Jun 10th, 2006 01:54 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Nice pics, well-composed post. Check the continuity of the thermistor on your water valve; it's the black thing on the end. Should have about 1100 ohms so set your meter accordingly. If it reads open, replace the valve: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1063699
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 10th, 2006 05:07 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Mad Mac Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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I'd also mention that the temperature control board on these has had a lot of problems of this nature - indeed, I'd make that my first port of call if faced with this issue: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=940172
____________________ Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere. |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 11th, 2006 07:21 am |
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4th Post |
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Jayrcee Grasshopper
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Thank you for your replies. I will check the thermistor and temperature control board as suggested. I'll post back with my findings. Thanks again!
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| Posted: Sun Jun 11th, 2006 10:33 pm |
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5th Post |
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Jayrcee Grasshopper
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Well, I checked the thermistor and it's fine. I was going to try and check the temperature control board but I am a bit unsure of how to go about that. Any tips?
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| Posted: Sun Jun 11th, 2006 10:45 pm |
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6th Post |
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Mad Mac Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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About the only thing you can do is check to see if the valve(s) get voltage when you select the appropriate temperature. No voltage = board fault. Follow the link in my previous post for a replacement. If it doesn't do the trick, return it for a full refund less shipping. Last edited on Sun Jun 11th, 2006 10:47 pm by Mad Mac ____________________ Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere. |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 11th, 2006 10:51 pm |
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7th Post |
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cdwasher Master Appliantologist
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if you use hot cold wash ,washer will fill with hot water and stop on cold deep rinse and stay there,cold water valve is defective no water no fill no pressure switch to activate and start wash cycle bottom line pull out washer plug and check for continuity post back cd
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| Posted: Sun Jun 11th, 2006 11:11 pm |
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8th Post |
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Jayrcee Grasshopper
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I only get voltage to the hot water valve. Anytime cold or warm is called for I don't get voltage to the cold water valve.
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| Posted: Mon Jun 12th, 2006 12:32 am |
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9th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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If you look at your connection on the thermistor on top of the water valve, does it appear to be corroded or discolored?? If so, it is what has caused your board to blow. If you put it in a cold fill and are not getting your L1 out of the board on the blue 37 wire to your cold water valve then the board is bad. Just check the connections on the thermistor so you don't blow up the next one as well. Last edited on Mon Jun 12th, 2006 12:36 am by Trying to help ____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Mon Jun 12th, 2006 09:09 pm |
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10th Post |
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cdwasher Master Appliantologist
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what kind of an ohm reading should i get for a good thermister?
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| Posted: Mon Jun 12th, 2006 11:18 pm |
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11th Post |
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Mad Mac Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I think our illustrious leader mentioned 1100 ohms a few lines back...
____________________ Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere. |
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| Posted: Mon Jun 12th, 2006 11:31 pm |
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12th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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... give or take 1000 ohms 
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 13th, 2006 12:29 am |
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13th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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The thermistor on this unit is a little higher then quoted. It is a negative coefficient with a range of 10K-100K. Usually it is around 40-50K at room temp. The board is looking for change in resistances more then anything else as it is filling as opposed to an exact starting point like an oven sensor would. If you see corrosion around the thermistor connections, it got wet and probably shorted your board.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 14th, 2006 02:56 am |
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14th Post |
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Jayrcee Grasshopper
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Trying to help wrote:If you look at your connection on the thermistor on top of the water valve, does it appear to be corroded or discolored?? If so, it is what has caused your board to blow. If you put it in a cold fill and are not getting your L1 out of the board on the blue 37 wire to your cold water valve then the board is bad. Just check the connections on the thermistor so you don't blow up the next one as well. The connection on my thermistor looks fine, no corrosion. I used my multimeter to test it and it looks like I am getting 50-60 ohms (it fluctuates). I'm not getting any power on the blue wire to my cold valve. I temporarily switched the terminals between the hot and cold valve and the cold valve does work (when I set it to a hot fill). Last edited on Wed Jun 14th, 2006 02:57 am by Jayrcee |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 14th, 2006 04:07 am |
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15th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Click on the Blue link above and get one of these bad boys on the way. The wash pile is growing!! Item # Picture Description Price In Stock? Add to Cart 940172  (Click to enlarge) Grid is 1 inch square Analog water temperature control board $73.55 Yes Qty [url=javascript:AddtoBasket(940172,document.PartFound.qty_0.value,0, '', 0)]  [/url] Order now and this item will ship tomorrow. Guaranteed
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 14th, 2006 05:11 am |
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16th Post |
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Jayrcee Grasshopper
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Does it matter that the one pictured in the link doesn't look exactly like the one in my machine?
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| Posted: Wed Jun 14th, 2006 02:03 pm |
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17th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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As long as the model and serial number are correct you should be golden. The earlier series (10) sub over the newer series number now anyway.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 14th, 2006 02:34 pm |
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18th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Part link for the control board: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=940172
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Sat Jul 1st, 2006 04:44 am |
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19th Post |
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Jayrcee Grasshopper
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I just wanted to thank everyone that helped me with my problem. I received the board and installed it. My washer works now. Thanks again!
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