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flapper door fell down  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat May 13th, 2006 05:37 pm
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evofxdwg
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Whirlpool ED25TQXFW00
Thru-door ice dispenser
Plastic tab broken on main housing (11 1/8 wide plastic box). This tab holds the right side of the metal axle of the flapper door assy. The flapper door assy had fallen down.

The main housing is item#1 on this drawing.

1. Is there any kind of repair kit to cut off tab and screw or glue an axle holder for the flapper door?

2. I cant find the item #1 in the parts area. (it did seem to recognize my model number). Is it avialable and how much?

3. Any suggestions for my own "screw and glue" repair?

4. (Just curious) There is a flex circuit board with two conductors going to the flapper door. What type of sensor is in the door? And what is it for.

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 Posted: Sat May 13th, 2006 05:48 pm
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Pegi
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I believe this REPAIR KIT addresses your problem??  You will want to follow the instructions carefully, once the tabs are stuck in place that is where they will stay.



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 Posted: Sat May 13th, 2006 08:37 pm
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Mad Mac
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The ribbon to the flapper is for a little heater, I think they no longer do that.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 14th, 2006 12:00 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Anyone have a copy of the instruction sheet from this kit that you could scan in here so I can see what is involved in installing this kit??? (Part# 8201756)



Thanks in advance,



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 Posted: Wed Jun 14th, 2006 02:45 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Maybe evofx can post it for us after he orders and receives the door chute kit: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1164531



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 Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 02:30 am
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evofxdwg
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Page 2 of instructions.

Attachment: 820175pg2of3.jpg (Downloaded 28 times)

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 Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 02:35 am
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evofxdwg
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Page 3 of instructions.


I also found the mounting alignment pins for the ice lever microswitch were broken. This is another crappy plastic part. I didnt want to spend more $ on this 10+ yr old refrigerator so i used Plumbers Goop to glue the alignment pins and spacer back. Of course when it dried it was misaligned but i found a wire tie around the ice lever pin gave it just enough extra thickness to engage the microswitch. Works fine lasts a long time!

Attachment: 820175pg3of3.jpg (Downloaded 21 times)

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 Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 02:39 am
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evofxdwg
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PS: I did NOT remove the entire main housing box as implied in the picture. Just loosen the outer assembly (hanging on wires) and tape out of the way while working on the box in-place.

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 Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 02:52 am
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evofxdwg
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If you install the above kit, Also be sure and check this part for broken microswitch alignment pins (the thin projections in the rectangular holes on either side). If any of the round pins are broken, you will either have to replace it or glue them in place. And it is hard to align them properly. I hate to buy another badly designed part so i glued mine.

Attachment: another crappy part.jpg (Downloaded 117 times)

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 Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 02:57 am
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evofxdwg
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Thanks Pegi

You saved me a bundle. Since the wife didnt make me buy a new fridge.;)

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 Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 03:24 am
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Pegi
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:cool:



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 Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 01:10 pm
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evofxdwg, for diligently following up and posting the instructions for the benefit of others here at these hallowed halls of higher learning, you are hereby promoted to Apprentice Appliantologist. Hubba Ding!



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 Posted: Thu Jun 15th, 2006 01:21 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Thanks Evofxdwg, That helps me to know what I'm going to be dealing with.



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 Posted: Fri Jun 16th, 2006 10:46 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Some questions for some of you that have installed a few of these kits?????


The new metal bracket is installed with the tabs on the outside of both original tabs that are to be completely removed. Have you ever had a problem with the chute door over time moving to either side with all the extra gap, (would be about an 1/8" extra gap on each side when original tabs are remove), and not sealing correctly?

A possible easier way to line up new metal bracket??? Both of my original tabs are in place, (broken one superglued back in place for tempory fix). Put bracket in place - without removing sticky tape cover, insert hinge pin thru bracket and orginal tabs, mark bracket postion with pin as suggested by Evofxdwg, then remove bracket and remove old tabs, reinstall bracket with glue exposed positioned in marked area. (Does this sound like good thinking????)

Also, how about maybe leaving old tabs in place as spacer so no worry about above problem of maybe misaligned chute door????

Last edited on Fri Jun 16th, 2006 10:47 am by Budget Appliance Repair



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 Posted: Sat Jun 17th, 2006 01:10 am
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evofxdwg
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I didnt measure but i suspect the new door is a little wider than old one. At any rate, it is wide enough at the bottom to still seal even if it slips to one side.

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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 01:20 am
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evofxdwg
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:yikes:UPDATE: IGNORE MY SUGGESTION #2 IN MY POST OF Wed Jun 14th, 2006 21:28, when installing this kit!

Moderator: You may even want to delete that post to save other folks some problems.

After a few days, the flapper door would not open far enough to let ice out and the ice dispenser lever would sometimes disengage from the microswitch, stopping the dispense.  I removed the cover and found the icemaker lever was flexing and the new bracket was moving slightly due to too much spring pressure.

Note the spring pressure is too large if the "loop" (middle part) of the door spring is agianst the metal bracket on top. The loop should be against the back of the main box, thus will not apply as much closing force to the door.  I used the wire tie method as described in that earlier post, which resulted in curling the spring too far and releasing it against the top. DO NOT USE THE WIRE TIE METHOD TO  HOLD THE SPRING DURING ASSEMBLY!

I took it apart again today and reassembled by pushing the whole assembly (lever and flapper door together) toward the back of the box, engaged the point end of the door axle, and then shoved the other end of the axle in place with a screwdriver.  It now works much better!

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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 01:52 am
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Pegi
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Done....;)



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 Posted: Sun Nov 11th, 2007 12:08 am
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robertinohio
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Hi,

Do you have page 1 of the instructions on how to replace the Whirlpool door chute.  I am not sure how to take off the covering to get at the flapper.  Thanks

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 Posted: Sun Nov 11th, 2007 08:47 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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To get the main trim/face plate off, at the bottom you will see two notches, (one on each side), slide a putty knife with paper towel between putty knife and door face between door face and behind face plate, then with a wideblade straight screwdriver in notch pop each side loose, it takes a bit and snaps off kind of aburptly, you may think it's going to break but it will pop loose first.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 11th, 2007 01:32 pm
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evofxdwg
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I still have page 1 of the instructions but even at the highest compression, it would not go below the 200KB limit. When  did they change that.

Anyway, page 1 will not help because all it says about that is "Remove the dispenser housing cover."


But what William Burk says in his post is correct. The outer bezel just pops off with prying action. Look for the depressions and pry there.  I used a screwdriver with tape protecting the door and the plastic deformed a bit. I think Mr. Burk's suggestion to use a putty knife would not tear the plastic up much.

There are some other parts you have to remove to get them out of the way after you get the bezel off. As i recall, you will need a min-socket set for the small screws.

 It's still working fine by the way.

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