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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Dryer motor stops after 15 seconds of turning

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Maytag Dryer motor stops after 15 seconds of turning  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Apr 4th, 2005 08:33 pm
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jm56
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 Maytag Dryer motor stops after 15 seconds of turning.

This first happened last week. Upon inspection I found the belt was fraying.

I replaced the belt and cleaned a bunch of link from the felt, front
and rear. Cleaned a bit of dust and such from the cabinet.

I lubricated the barrel rollers and tension roller.

I tested moving the barrel by hand: moved freely.

With the belt in position I can turn the barrel by hand in the clockwise direction. This allows the belt to slide past the motor pully.

After this repair it dryed a load just fine.

Now it starts turning and then stop after about 15 seconds. I have
it set in the Air Dry cycle to avoid the gas related sensors,...


Any thoughts?

J
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 Posted: Mon Apr 4th, 2005 09:06 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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 The motor is overheating and its thermal overload is kicking it out.  I have a couple good references on that:

http://fixitnow.com/2003/09/mailbag-electric-dryer-stops-running.htm

http://fixitnow.com/2005/03/replacing-motor-in-maytag-dryer.htm

Be sure to check the rolling components, too:  front glides, rear rollers, idler pulley, and inside the blower housing to make sure they're not putting undue drag on the motor.



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 Posted: Tue Apr 5th, 2005 01:33 pm
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jm56
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 Thank you for your response.

An update:

Per a suggestion:

I removed the belt, pushed the button, and the motor turned freely. I opened/closed the door. And pushed the button again; just fine. Ran for about 5 minutes.

I tested the movement of the barrel by hand: turns nice.

I replaced the belt, pressed the button. Fine.

I opened/closed the door. And pushed the button again; just fine.

Ran for 10 minutes, air fluff.

Started it again. OK.

Put in some jeans, 1st click on perm press, ran for 20 minutes. All dry.



I had an intermittantly working set of gas solonoids last year. Took 6 months for them to completely quit. This could be another such gremlin.

J
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 Posted: Tue Apr 5th, 2005 01:52 pm
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 Still sounds like the motor is overheating and its thermal overload is kicking it out.  Come git you a new one.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 6th, 2005 06:40 pm
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jm56
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 Thank you for your help and guidance Oh Fuzzy One.

 

So, why does a motor overheat only occasionally?

Could it be the thermistor is malfunctioning?

 

J
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 Posted: Wed Apr 6th, 2005 08:45 pm
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 It's overheating under load; in other words, when the motor is having to actually do some work, rather than just freewheel.  That's a typical failure mode for motors.  As for why, it's due to loss of magnetic flux (hysterisis loss) and excessive current draw from insulation breakdown on the aramture winding-- both contribute to overheating.  Some excellent background on electric motor theory here, if you're interested.

Last edited on Wed Apr 6th, 2005 08:45 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Wed Apr 6th, 2005 09:22 pm
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jm56
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 Thank you for your response.

But why is the overheating interrmittant?

After I tested it without the barrel belt, I tested it with, and then dryed two loads.

'Tis why I ask if the thermistor can be intermittant.

J
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 Posted: Wed Apr 6th, 2005 09:30 pm
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 jm56 wrote:
'Tis why I ask if the thermistor can be intermittant.


 

Does your dryer even have a thermistor?  I've not seen any Maytag dryers with thermistors that shutdown the motor...not to say that they don't exist.  What's the model number?



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 Posted: Mon Apr 11th, 2005 08:38 pm
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jm56
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 Monday 3:30 pm

I do not know if the motor has a thermistor. I inferred this from your description of the problem: overheating and stopping. I figgered the shutoff mechanism is some sort of heat sensor. But,...

 

Update: it worked for about 3 loads. Then, after 2 days of rest, it just buzzed when the start button was pressed.

I unbelted it and tested. It turned freely. I attached the belt; just a buzz.

I opened the door, pressed the "door is closed" button, had an assistant press the start button while I turned the drum, and it started and spun fine.

I then closed the door, pressed the start button a couple of times, buzz and then the smell.

So a new motor is next.

But, I am concerned about the drum turning. It seems to turn freely.

I lubricated the wheels with a silicone spray. They turned fine before I did such.

The felt appears in good condition.

And the pads appear to not be overly worn. But how am I to know.

Thank you for your time and attention.

J
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 Posted: Mon Apr 11th, 2005 08:50 pm
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jm56
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 Another question:

The motor displayed by the link you provided looks different than the one display from searching for a Maytag DG410 dryer.

http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=776953

The one in the dryer looks like this one:

http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=2541&SeqID=0&Chg=1

What ya think? Is the difference the included pully?

 

J
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 Posted: Tue Apr 12th, 2005 02:23 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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 jm56 wrote:

What ya think? Is the difference the included pully?


Ezzzacly. See if the pulley will come off your old motor-- these can sometimes be one tuff muthah to get off. If it comes off, get the less expensive motor. If not, well, the Samurai's got you covered, budrow.



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 Posted: Sat Apr 16th, 2005 04:38 pm
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jm56
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 The pully was cooperative.

I ordered the motor from fixitnow/repairclinic. It arrived yesterday.

This morning I prepare for the insertion.

My granddaughters are happy to observer/help.

And upon opening the box we find:

The foamy instapaks had ruptured.

 We remove most of the easy stuff.

But, the foam pervaded the motor's winding coils on one side. It does not appear to have penetrated to the rotor, which spins freely.

I sent a message to instapak inquiring about flammability, and out-gasing. No response yet.

My main concern: the coils are now insulated by the foam. In use this will probably trap heat, resulting in outgasing and possible flames.

I sent a message to repairclinic.

No repair today. We are frowning.

J

 
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 Posted: Sat Apr 16th, 2005 06:50 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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 Just blow it out with compressed air.  Be fine.  Rock on! :rockband:



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 Posted: Sat Apr 16th, 2005 06:54 pm
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jm56
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 The instapaks ruptured upon expansion.

The foamy is stuck tight.

Even scraping from the outer surface is a chore.

I suspect the foamy in the windings will not go easily into the night.

But, I will dutifully follow the all-knowing-one's advice for the sake of science and the American way.

J

 
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 Posted: Sat Apr 16th, 2005 07:01 pm
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 Ooooeeeeewww, I stink I under-freaking-stand your predicament.  No, contact Repairclinic via phone, tell them the motor is unusable because of a packaging error, to send you a new motor 2nd Day air (no charge) and to send a call tag to pick up the one you have.  Don't tell them I said to do that because that means nothing to them-- you ask this as the customer, see?   

A short delay, but it shall be made right with minimal fuss.  :tinkerbell:

Last edited on Sat Apr 16th, 2005 07:07 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Thu May 12th, 2005 09:31 pm
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 Sounds like a classic case of dying motor.



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 Posted: Thu May 12th, 2005 10:46 pm
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FIRST: unplug the AC cord and shut off gas

The front is held on by two screw near the bottom of the front panel.

After they are removed (use a short phillips driver), pull up from the bottom AS IF the front panel is on hinges. Be careful of the wires

Then turn the panel so the front panel is against the left side of the dryer.

And then the inside bits can be removed by using a small socket. A drill motor is helpful.

Pay attention to how the sides of the lint screen cover is placed over the bent edges. If it is not replaced correctly the lint screen will catch when using the dryer.

When you get to the motor, make a drawing of the wires: which colors attached to which terminals. And the green ground wire. The new motor will not be exactly the same, but close enough.

I did not have trouble removing the pulley. I had more trouble removing the retaining clips holding the motor to the frame. It took two persons, one with channel locks, and one with a large screwdriver. Replacing them was "easy."

Having the dryer to bits is a good time to replace the drive belt.  And maybe the felt strips and plastic "bushings."

My felt strips were in fine condition but did have a layer of lint, I removed it with a stiff toothbrush and screwdriver.

During assembly, I placed the pulley on the shaft, and tightened it slightly. After assembly I tested (air fluff cycle) and watched through the rear access panel. Stopped the dryer, and adjusted the pulley to have the belt centered on the plastic tension wheel when turning.

And so on.

Jesse
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