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Maytag Neptune Washer MAH8700AWW error code

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Posted: Mon May 25th, 2009 08:57 pm

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21^st Post

Glibbis
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Same model, and I am using a digital ohm-meter.

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Posted: Mon May 25th, 2009 09:06 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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MAH8700AW Technical Information

OK ... says 3 OHMS ...

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Posted: Mon May 25th, 2009 09:11 pm

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23^rd Post

Glibbis
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Thanks! I guess I will keep testing components... This makes me miss the old GE washer and dryer set I had for about 15 years and never had any trouble with...

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Posted: Mon May 25th, 2009 09:31 pm

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24^th Post

Glibbis
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Can anyone tell me how to test the speed sensor on this machine?

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Posted: Thu Jun 18th, 2009 03:08 am

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Glibbis
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Well, in case anyone else is interested, I think I solved thew problem.

I first tried wiggling the wires as per the technical service bulletin, no luck. I then created six spade terminal jumpers between the motor and the wiring harness form the washer, positively engaging the temrinals to avoid any chance of a loose connection. Still didn't fix it. I tried leaving the washer unplugged for hours between loads. This seemed to get it through one load, but then it gave me code 3E again.

At my wits end, I broke down and ordered a new control circuit board from partsselect.com. It was $260, but I think it solved the problem. The board is noticeably different from the original board, and the new control board also comes with a vibration sensor I had to install (took under five minutes, just removed and reinstalled two screws on the top of the washer chassis).

So far, so good. $260 and about 30 minutes of repair tuime sure beats $1k for a new washer. Hopefully this will help out people getting error 3E on their Maytag Neptune washer. Of cours,e the unit is less than four years old, so a circuit board failure seems rather premature....

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Posted: Thu Jun 18th, 2009 03:30 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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$ 250 from ReparClinic and

Any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned in original condition
within 30 days for a refund (less shipping).

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Posted: Fri Jun 19th, 2009 10:22 pm

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27^th Post

Glibbis
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After several days service I can confirm that the machine is now fixed. Not only do I not get error 3e, but the machine runs smoother, quieter, and the clothes come out dryer than they did before (the spin cycle is more effective apparently).

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Posted: Mon Jul 27th, 2009 08:04 pm

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28^th Post

jwmiii
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Hello,

I have the same washer with the same problem. $150 for a repair guy to come out and tell me he can't help me because there is no serial number on the machine. It was an ebay purchase and he says people sell them unauthorized a lot of times when they aren't supposed to, then Maytag won't in turn help them fix it.

Can you tell me the specific part you ordered from partsselect and replaced? I went there but couldn't figure out how to identify exactly what I needed.

Thanks!

Jim

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Posted: Mon Jul 27th, 2009 08:14 pm

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29^th Post

RegUS_PatOff
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Did you do any tests ?

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Posted: Mon Jul 27th, 2009 08:15 pm

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30^th Post

Glibbis
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The series number and model number and all other information you need to purchase parts should be located on a sticker behind the door on the washing machine.

the part you want to buy from partselect.com is the control board. I believe it is part number 5 on the exploded diagram of the "control panel dispenser" graphic. Be aware that you will need to learn your series number to order the correct part, but this information can be obtained by looking at your serial number.

For what it is worth, my washer is still working great with no problems. It works better than new with no error codes now. :afro:

Try this link:
http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=271340&ModelNum=MAH8700AWW&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=58443&Position=1&mfg=Maytag&Type=&Mark=1

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Posted: Tue Jul 28th, 2009 10:53 am

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31^st Post

Budget Appliance Repair
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If in fact the model# tag is on the machine, but the serial# is cutout of the tag then this was most likely a field scrapped machine that shouldn't have been resold.

If you get lucky there might be a paper tag on the back of the machine with the model/serial# info. Most of the Maytag frontloaders that I've seen have the factory sticker tag on back with a barcode/model#/serial#.

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Posted: Tue Jul 28th, 2009 03:15 pm

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32^nd Post

RegUS_PatOff
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I bought a new scratch & dent LG Dryer AS-IS on eBay (stated no warranty)

It didn't have any serial number...

Some factory authorized technicians won't service an appliance without a serial number,

some will, and also most independent ones will ...

In some states (not mine) it's (supposedly) illegal to sell and/or own an appliance without a serial number.

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Posted: Wed Jan 20th, 2010 01:24 am

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33^rd Post

djack01
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I have read the postings for the E3 error message. I tested the motor w/ the ohm meter and got 3.0 ohms on each test. What is the next test or where do I go from here? Do I replace the control board?

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Posted: Wed Jan 20th, 2010 03:01 am

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34^th Post

RegUS_PatOff
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Did you read the info about "Starting a New Topic" ?

so as not to confuse the original poster's questions & answers if he returns ...

also, what symptoms does your Washer have ?

no Spin, slow Spin, etc ..

did you do any tests in the Technical Infomation posted earlier ?

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Posted: Wed Jan 20th, 2010 11:31 am

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35^th Post

djack01
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The washer stops in mid cycle and give the E3 error message. I tested the motor w/ the ohm meter and got 3.0 ohms on each test. Also checked the electrical connections at the harness connecting to the motor as the TSB advised. What is the next test or where do I go from here? Do I replace the control board?

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Posted: Wed Jan 20th, 2010 11:45 am

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36^th Post

RegUS_PatOff
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from the Tech Sheets:

Display “E3”

Evaluate wire harness for loose or unhooked connections.

If machine has separate motor control, perform self diagnostic motor test.

See “Board Output Test”.

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