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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi | ||
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flyer Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Maytag Model MAV7000AWW purchased 2000 My immediate question is how to remove the inner tub from spindle so I can see what might be lurking below it. Agitator is off, and four bolts underneath have been removed, but tub is stuck tight. It all started when agitation stopped. An anonymous user reported washer would fill but not agitate. Burning smell reported. Testing determined all other functions (spin, pump, brake, etc) work properly. Motor runs in two directions. But wait; after washer was tipped up for belt access, hand turning of belt revealed that agitation seemed to work. Application of power proved it true, though now a clanky noise appeared. It appears something could easily have slipped between inner and outer tubs, which could have jammed the agitation, and made the subsequent noise as well. Which brings me back to my desire to look under the tub to see what I might find. One option, I guess, would be the unweildy task of turning the whole thing upside down and hope whatever is so noisy rolls out. I most humbly ask your advice. Should I try the appliance repair version of what in Wisconsin is referred to as "Cow Tipping"? Or is the removal of the inner tub easier than it now seems? Thank you kindly for your wise advice. |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Unfortunately I see a transmission in your future. You have done everything you need to do to remove the inner tub. If it is stuck, Put agitator back on and fill with hottest water possible (fill with hot till water gets hot, stop, spin out water then fill after line purged) and let it agitate for a minute. The hot water causes the plastic tub collar to expand slightly and should be able to be removed from there. |
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flyer Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thank you TTH, I finally did remove the inner tub, following advice from another posting (wiggle and pull hard). I found a staple (heavy duty wire type) lodged in one hole of inner tub that was digging into outer tub, which couldn't have been responsible for my noise or lack of agitation. Tested the agitation while tub off, and noise still there. Someone called it a "deeper" noise, sort of like an auto bearing problem or rough brake rotors. The machine agitated for a while, then stopped suddenly with a loud clunk. I can get it to agitate again by running spin cycle briefly, but still very noisy agitation. Your assesment appears to be correct. Guess I will peruse the site for a good description of transmission replacement to help me decide whether to undertake it myself. The machine is only 6 yrs old and should have another 10 yrs left. This one appears promising: One Year Old Maytag Atlantis MAV9750 Washer = Jet Turbine http://applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=5563 Any other pointers would be appreciated. |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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A lot of those units carry a 10 year parts warranty on the transmission. Might want to look at the last page of your use and care to see. You will still owe the labor, but all the parts will be covered. |
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flyer Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks once again. I did notice the warranty last night, fortunately before I cancelled the service call I had scheduled, as a backup, for Monday morning. Transmission is covered (7 years into 10 yr coverage period), which is good. Technician suggests replacing a seal and brake components, which with labor and service call will come to about $250. Seems reasonable to me, so we had the parts ordered up. Tell me if I should be running fast in the other direction. I suppose we should expect not much more than another 6 or 7 years out of it. Any suggestions for easing its job for a longer life? I already have a houshold decree to run no rugs or such things in it. Are full loads of everyday laundry too much work for the transmissions in these things? I see the transmission issue mentioned often on this site. Of course we bought the Maytag for $100 or so over others with the expectation of fewer problems and a decent service life. And it has been a good machine - the only gripes I can point to are the water level slide setting gave out early in its life (won't stay where set), and when load is unbalanced, rather than call someone to help (buzzzzz), it will jump around happily like a 6 year old on a king sized bed. Maybe that's the cause of the transmission problem, you might be thinking, and maybe it is. But it doesn't happen often, and we usually catch it by the 3rd or 4th bounce. Anyway, thanks for your assistance. I'll post results. |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I can't comment on what the tech found when he was looking at it. The seal and upper bearing is a no brainer, have to replace them when doing the trans. The brake components??????? Depends on what he witnessed. If he is referring to a Thrust Bearing Kit when he mentioned the brake, then yes I agree with that as well. I myself would also be putting a 21002026 snubber ($5 of happiness) since you're in there anyway. Chances are it's worn or will have grease on it by the time he's done. |
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flyer Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I believe the technician plans to replace the brake rotor and lining (1032674) to quiet a slight squeal we hear when the spinning stops. It wasn't anything I would have considered a problem, but my MO on car work is if you're already in there and it's cheap enough, replace it. Parts other than the transmission (warranted) look like less than $30 or 40, so I assume I'm otherwise paying for a service call (maybe two) and 2 or 3 hours of labor. What else he plans to replace I am not sure, but I will make certain he replaces the snubber ring. I always ask to see old parts, too, so I can figure what might have caused an issue (and change my habits accordingly). Which is why I'm curious about what causes the transmission to bust up inside. Any thoughts on how to nurse along the new one to stretch out it's life? Until we can get a front loader, that is... |
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