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HE4t Washer Error messages F11 and Fdl  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Tue Mar 21st, 2006 02:32 pm
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dfyates
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I have a 1+ year old Kenmore HE4t washer.  Model # 11045992400.  Over the past couple of months I've occasionally had the washer stop (apparently during the spin cycle) with an error code of F11.  I was able to just hit start again and it would complete.  A couple of times I couldn't tell whether it had gone thru rinse so I would run the rinse/spin cycle.

In the past week, I'm starting to get the F11 code with every load - big or small.  And occasionally, I'm getting FDL.  I called Sears and was told about resetting the machine.  I did that but now it's getting worse.  Is there a connection between the two codes?  Do I have a serious control panel problem?

Help - I have a very smelly 15 year football and hockey player...

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 Posted: Tue Mar 21st, 2006 05:04 pm
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Pegi
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F11=


Communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the




Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly.




F DL=




A Door Lock Error occurs if the door cannot be locked. It will try to lock




it six times before displaying the error code.




This is from Your tech sheet found under the top of the unit... Need to check your warranty, some of these parts may still be under warranty....like the CCU...


This unit was made by Whirlpool, but since it has the Kenmore name on it..........you will have to deal with Sears..



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 Posted: Sat Apr 8th, 2006 11:37 pm
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Maggie
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Hope this can help you; I just spent some quality time today with the repairman over this same issue.  Hopefully it can save you a $55 service call.

First he removed the top of the machine.  This is done by pushing it back slightly, about 1/2 inch, so that the tabs come unhooked, and then lift it off.  (I know I'm not explaining that well, but I'm sure there's a diagram or post on this board that would explain it better.)  Near the back of the machine on the right hand side is where all of the wiring hooks into the computer portion that controls the door lock (and other things) is located.  The pink wires control the door lock.  They are inserted and removed in a manner similar to a phone jack. 

Here's the solution:  Make sure the wires are all inserted tightly; I guess with all of the jarring during the cycles, they sometimes loosen.  He just took the connection out, looked at it and put it back in and now it runs fine---so far at least.  He also check the connections on the other end of the wires.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed; it is after all still day 1 of the "repair".

As an addendum:  He came to this conclusion after I told him I was not going to spend another $269 to replace the "control board" on a lemon.  I told him that the "sensor board" was covered for 2 years.  His reply, "This is the control board."  When I pulled out my owner manual, I realized it was the same thing.  My husband then called and wanted to talk to him.  Amazingly enough, during the conversation with my husband,  the problem went from replacing the control board to a possible loose wire!!!  And sure enough, that seems to have been the problem--amazing!!!

I also was chided for not purchasing a "protection agreement".  And he also tried to sell me one before he left.  I just said if I have any more problems, I'm just going to toss the machine and cut my losses; $1000 is enough to spend, I'll just get a new lower tech one.

He was actually a pretty nice guy that was just doing his job, but I still resent the whole "hard sell" game.

Hope this helps,

Maggie  

 

 

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 Posted: Sun Apr 9th, 2006 06:18 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Good story, Maggie, thanks for posting that.

df, this post has some more info that might help you.



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 Posted: Mon May 15th, 2006 12:51 am
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middle2klb
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I just purchased an HE4t and could not get it to start, either.  After emailing Sears to find out what the code meant, I got the reply that the door was failing to lock (however, I didn't get the info on what to check).

Thank you very much for your post.  I went right to the washer, got the lid off, (after taking off the three hex-head screws on the back), pushed in the various connections, started it up, and off it went!  Hooray!



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 Posted: Sat May 27th, 2006 06:16 pm
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Maggie
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All of my home remedies have failed--wiggling the wires isn't working that well anymore.  Well, we're making one last ditch effort to save our investment.  I'm having the repair guy come out and replace the Sensor Smart control board.  I don't know if that's what the issue is, but if that doesn't work, we're pitching our machine.  Does anyone know what part # the Sensor Smart control board is, just so the guy doesn't try to scam me when he gets here?

If anyone knows of any recalls or legal action about this machine, please post them here!!

Here's my latest "device" to get through a load of laundry:  duct tape to the resuce again....looks real classy.

Maggie

 

 



 

Attachment: kenmore he4t.jpg (Downloaded 20 times)

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 Posted: Sun May 28th, 2006 01:15 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Maggie wrote:
  Does anyone know what part # the Sensor Smart control board is, just so the guy doesn't try to scam me when he gets here?

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1059575



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 Posted: Sat Jun 3rd, 2006 09:51 pm
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Maggie
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Glad that it helped some.  As I said in another post, the "wiggling" method isn't working as efficiently as it used to for me.  But I recently called Sears back to have the "Smart Sensor" board replaced.  Since my machine is over one year, but under two, it is the only part still under warranty.  When they asked if I knew that was the problem, I told them no, but since it's the only thing still under warranty, I wanted it replaced.  If it fixed the problem--great; if it didn't, I was pitching the washer. 

Then one of the most amazing things happened:  an honest repairman showed up!! When he saw the top missing from my washer he asked if someone was working on it; I told him no, this is how I have to do laundry and told him the whole routine:  1.  Start laundry 2. Hear annoying beep 3. Swear like a drunken sailor as I run downstairs 4. Wiggle wires 5. Repeat several times for each load.

He said he's had several complaints about the same issue and there seems to be a bad solder or something.  Whatever it is, the connection in the "SmartSensor" board doesn't work right.  Replacing it should solve the problem.  He looked on the computer and saw that the last guy just listed the problem as "Loose connection" and asked if it was for the same issue.  I said yeah, and he (the first repairman) told me I'd have to fork over $269 + labor to replace the part.  He shook his head and said, "No, and since you already paid for one service call, I'm going to credit your $55 toward the installation of the part."  (I also didn't get charged for this call, I should add.)

So, the part is supposed to be delivered the June 12th, I have to call and schedule someone to come out and put it in.  Installation would normally cost around $125, but since he credited us $55 for the first (useless) service call, it will run us around $70.  It almost seems too good to be true--I'll have to see how this all pans out.

As a sidenote--this part may or may not be easy to install, but I'm going to let them do it.  A woman I work with has a Calypso washer and had it serviced by someone who wasn't an "authorized" Calypso repair service and they did a fine job; she had no complaints.  However, when they had the recall on the Calypso washers, she wasn't eligible for any sort of reimbursement or compensation because she didn't use an "authorized" repair guy.  If they do any recalls or anything on this piece of work they call a washer, I don't want the same thing to happen to me.

Best of luck,

Maggie

 

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