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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > One Year Old Maytag Atlantis MAV9750 Washer = Jet Turbine

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One Year Old Maytag Atlantis MAV9750 Washer = Jet Turbine  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat Feb 25th, 2006 12:35 am
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RN
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:( My Maytag Atlantis Washer sounds like a jet turbine when on spin.  It spins fine but even the cats complain its so loud.  I live in an old house with plaster walls, you can hear the washer on the second floor even though the washers in the base.  Took it apart and could not find any obvious issues, except for some powered plastic.  Looked for warn part or stainless still "rotor" dragging on plastic drum housing.  Found lots of mold and dirt.  Cleaned everything.  Made no difference.  Any ideas.  Is this a transmission issue?  If so how do I prove it and get a replacement.  Only one year on labor.  Transmission assembly for 10 years (no labor).  Can't believe I need to do this on a machine so new.  Did I get a lemon or is the whole brand suspect:shock:

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 Posted: Sat Feb 25th, 2006 01:32 am
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ratherbfishin



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check your pulleys on your pump, motor and tranmisson.  remove belt  under bottom of machine,  [no tools needed].  turn pulleys by hand,  motor and pump pulleys should turn freely with no resistance.    i would suspect your pump.  easy for small items to lodge inside and  make a noise similar to baseball cards on bicycle spokes and can be very loud. 



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 Posted: Sat Feb 25th, 2006 02:21 pm
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Jacques
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i concur, change the pump,  you'll be fine. 

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 Posted: Sat Feb 25th, 2006 10:00 pm
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RN
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Pump turns fine. Transparent and looks fine.  Will look at more later but, it looks like someone killed a chicken inside the cabinet now.  Dark red splotches on the walls.  Remember this is just over a year old washing machine!!! :yikes: Suspect its a seal

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 Posted: Sat Feb 25th, 2006 11:11 pm
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ratherbfishin



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  if rusty brown stains are at same level as the bottom of outer tub, you need to pull off agitator (nut under fabric softener dispenser.  dispenser snaps out)  see if something is wrapped around tub seal (it's beige plastic with fins.) and transmission shaft.  if that looks ok you  have a bad tub seal and hub bearing assembly.  remove  inner tub ( spinner) to access hub assembly. both tub seal and hub have right hand threads. bearing asssembly is  mounted in outer tub underneath hub assembly.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 12:09 am
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RN
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I mispoke my washer is slightly over 2 years old.  So the only parts covered by warranty is basket, transmission  and drive motor.  I have already remove the basket and nothing was wrapped around it.  Yes the underside of the tub has the same splash marks on (actually solid ring).  Need to locate a more detailed drawing.  It would appear I have to take the entire shell off to be able to access bolts holding tub on.  But which bolts?  Bolts on support brackets or bolts to metal mounting plate.  Also looks like I have to remove 3 of the 6 springs.   Looking at parts on this web site looks like seal kit, upper spin bearings (remember the jet turbine sound) and some special tools.  Seal kit requires special spanner and I am worried the bearings are a press fit which I won't be able to handle.  Looks like the washers is :rocketman:

What do you think.  I certainly don't think its worth the effort if this is going to happen every two years.

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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 12:32 am
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ratherbfishin



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you will have to remove all six springs to complete repair, also need specialty tools to remove brake and stator with spring.  depends on series which tub seals and bearings to get for your machine.(first two numbers of serial number determine series).   if you can get transmission, tub seals and hub and bearings come with it.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 01:25 am
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RN
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Does anyone have a drawing?  I got the shell and tub off but I don't know what the next part is to disassemble.  I supect its the one with the spanner.  Could turn it but don't know which way to turn.  Also drive shaft and boot would still be in the way.  Does drive shaft just pull out?  Don't see any E clips or retaining rings. 

I don't mind spending money to get quality, but I am afraid I wasted my money on this machine:grunt:  .   Is this a common problem or did I just get unlucky?  I had a Maytag before.  It required me to replace the direct coupling every 4 to 5 years but it wasn't hard or expensive and I had it a long time :)before the transmission gave out.

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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 01:46 am
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ratherbfishin



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tranmission comes as complete assembly, shaft does not come out.  cast aluminum hub is on with right hand threads, once you  remove that you will have to remove springs and brake stator.  see previous post.   your transmission didnot fail just  your tub seal. you might consider calling a authorized  maytag guy.  parts will depend on which series washer you have. unless you can get the transmission replaced under warranty. it will come with all new seals and new hub.   see appliance breakdown diagram  on banner.   seal kits and transmission come with directions

Last edited on Sun Feb 26th, 2006 01:48 am by ratherbfishin



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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 03:24 am
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RN
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What about the spin bearings.  Remember this thing sounds like a jet turbine.  Running a gas leaf blower in the house would be quieter!!!   Are you thinking they will blame damage to transmission on the seal and refuse to replace it?

Does anybody have an exploded diagram that shows the details of how to take the support plate off?  I can't figure out even if I manage to loosen the housing how to remove it as it has a boot that wraps tightly under the transmission shaft

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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 12:30 pm
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ratherbfishin



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they shouldnt blame seal for any damage.   to get to lower seal and bearing assembly you will have to attack from underneath tub.   , removing brake stator assembly will allow access to screw holding tub support to seal in outer tub.   spin bearing comes with transmission assembly. 



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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 12:45 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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This diagram of the transmission might help.

Last edited on Wed Mar 22nd, 2006 08:37 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 09:02 pm
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RN
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The picture helps but I am still not sure of the order of things.  Take off pulley.  Remove load centering springs.  Unbolt tub support arms.     Could you give me a list by #'s in the drawing? 

 I am have replaced brakes on my car and have some spring tools. But how strong are those springs?  Is the spring your are talking about spring 18 in the drawing?  Totally contained by the shaft?  Or do I have to worry about a spring going wild? 

 Is item 10 the spinner bearing? 

What is the water leakage path?  Down the spin axle?  What is rusted so badly that the spray looks like dried blood?

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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 10:26 pm
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ratherbfishin



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 item 9 is the bearing and seal assembly. item  18 is the spring that is under extreme pressure.  1.   remove all parts inside outer tub.(spinner or inner tub , tub seal,metal hub.) 2.  then remove all 6 tub balance springs, disconnect tub to pump hose and pressure switch hose  at outer tub.(be careful of air dome,could break off if catches on body when removing  tub and base assembly.   3. remove belt.   4.  remove outer tub assembly and base as whole assembly and turn upside down onto outer tub.   should be looking at transmission pulley,  remove thrust bearing ,  brake stator and spring. spring under extreme pressure. the only thing containing spring is the metal coverwith 6   5/16  screws.  proceed with caution , do not remove cover to brake unless you can take pressure off of spring. you will   need special tool or could find post at this web site on how to without.  once you remove brake and spring assembly you will find three screws remove those and six screws that  house brake and springs.   make sure to mark tub support pan and tub bearing assembly orientation it will make a difference on  reassembly.( in relation to outer tub).    again do remove brake stator without relieving pressure on spring 18 on your diagram.    ps.  red stains caused by water mixing with grease inside tub seals and rust from bearing.                                    note.      depending on series of your washer you may be able to buy tub seal and bearing kit which would come with everything you need.  see prev post  about series number!   you might be able to borrrow or rent speciality tools from where you buy parts.

Last edited on Sun Feb 26th, 2006 11:56 pm by ratherbfishin



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 Posted: Mon Feb 27th, 2006 02:44 am
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RN
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Thanks for :pint:the information.  I used channel locks to get item 5 ("nut") off.  Bearing is bad.  It rattles and was most likely the source of the jet engine noise.  The spring did not seem that strong as the pressure is released by just backing out the screws.  ALready hand tub support off before I read you note on marking it.  Which way does the index hole for item 9 go in relation to cabinet?  Sure hope I don't have to do this every two years!!:violin:It is certainly a major operation. 

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 Posted: Mon Feb 27th, 2006 11:03 am
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ratherbfishin



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what needs to line up are the  hooks and slots for your supension springs in the tub support.   at this point you will have to check before  and during reassembly.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 28th, 2006 12:11 am
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RN
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I got the part and see that it has been redesigned.  They  tell me to grease parts but only give a part number for grease.  Any clues here.

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 Posted: Tue Feb 28th, 2006 01:33 am
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ratherbfishin



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if you look inside seals you shoud find that they have already been greased.

Last edited on Tue Feb 28th, 2006 01:34 am by ratherbfishin



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 Posted: Tue Feb 28th, 2006 02:10 am
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RN
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Yes they are after going to the store to get some since I was out.

OOPS   I forgot does parts 22 & 23 go on before assembly to the base so that the spings are the only things holding the transmission to the base or do they go on under the base and act as a retainer.

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 Posted: Tue Feb 28th, 2006 02:33 am
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ratherbfishin



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      note ...  you completely  assemble lower half of washer including transmission pulley while upside down  resting on outer tub,  the tran pulley will drop thru opening in base.     replace tub seal and bearing into outer tub,don't forget black rubber seal,looks like big rubber band.   you should completely assemble bottom half of assembly,  transmission,  snubber(keep clean remove any grease,oils off snubber)      ,brake rotor,brake stator and spring, screws go into lower transmission bearing,  replace tub seal and bearing into outer tub  then invert and place back into machine, replace tub springs and then replace hub and tub seal. 

Last edited on Tue Feb 28th, 2006 02:37 am by ratherbfishin



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