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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > asko 1375 dishwasher - no 2nd fill |
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| asko 1375 dishwasher - no 2nd fill | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20th, 2006 01:20 am |
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1st Post |
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mongo Grasshopper
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I have been testing my asko 1375 dishwasher to determine why it does not wash the dishes fully. Through observing it through several cycles, I noticed that it initially fills and pumps water through the arms - works very well. It then drains itself properly. At this point, the dishwasher is supposed to fill again and then pump the water through the arms -- my problem -- the dishwasher does not fill the 2nd time (or 3rd time). So, after reading your prior postings about the bottom pan perhaps having water in it (and the float switch preventing a fill), I took the all the panels off bottom - no water in pan. With front off, I ran a load and tested various components. In one test, I lifted the float (to trip the float switch) during the fill and the fill stopped immediately and the drain starts -- when I let the float down, it goes back to the fill. In another test, I waited for the initial fill, pump & drain to complete and let the "non-working" second fill begin (there is a slight buzzing when it is supposed to fill). I then repeated the float switch test - when the float switch was up, it started the drain - when I let the float switch down, it goes back to the slight buzzing. This leads me to believe that the float switch is A-OK. In a third test, I tested for DC volts across the terminals of the fill switch -- during the inital fill, DC volts were present across the terminals. During the "non-working" second fill, DC volts were not present across the fill switch. This leads me to believe that the dishwasher thinks it already has water in it -- my problem -- I can not figure out how the dishwasher determines if it already has water in it... Any help would be appreciated...
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| Posted: Tue Feb 21st, 2006 03:24 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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mongo wrote:In a third test, I tested for DC volts across the terminals of the fill switch -- during the inital fill, DC volts were present across the terminals. During the "non-working" second fill, DC volts were not present across the fill switch. This leads me to believe that the dishwasher thinks it already has water in it -- my problem -- I can not figure out how the dishwasher determines if it already has water in it... Why are you testing for DC?
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 21st, 2006 04:58 pm |
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3rd Post |
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mongo Grasshopper
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Reason I was checking for DC was to see if current was being applied to the fill valve - really trying to see if maybe the fill valve itself was faulty. From what I measured, it had a current on the first fill but not on the subsequent fill. However, measurement may not be entirely accurate as I did have some trouble getting the tester leads on the fill valve - kind of paranoid about reaching into a live dishwasher...
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22nd, 2006 03:58 am |
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4th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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I think you're outsmarting yourself. The valve operates on 120v AC. You need to measure accordingly. You can also do a continuity check on the valve coil. More help on making electrical measurements here: http://fixitnow.com/2004/12/appliance-repair-revelation-making.htm
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Sat Mar 4th, 2006 06:01 am |
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5th Post |
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peal Grasshopper
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I have a similar problem with my ASKO 1705. Does the same thing ie 1st cycle OK, then fails to fill. No water in tray below. Inlet valve voltage is labelled 240V being in Australia. Measured it with my trusty Fluke 87, expecting to see 240V AC. Measured as 6V DC which makes no sense. I haven't been able to get back to have another go at it. Did you find the fault with your machine?
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| Posted: Sun Mar 5th, 2006 04:53 am |
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6th Post |
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peal Grasshopper
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Now had time to look at it properly. Definite operator error in measuring DC voltage. I now can see 240V AC across the water inlet valve. Valve seems to open sometimes when 240V present on fill cycle, other times doesn't open. First off when cold seems to open every time, but later in the cycle remains closed even though 240V present. Guess I will replace the valve.
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| Posted: Sun Mar 5th, 2006 12:44 pm |
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7th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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If the valve isn't opening each and every time voltage is applied, then the valve has developed a mechanical defect. Replace it, all good.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Sun Mar 5th, 2006 09:15 pm |
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8th Post |
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peal Grasshopper
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Thank you o wise one. I will do as you say.
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| Posted: Mon Mar 6th, 2006 10:24 am |
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9th Post |
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peal Grasshopper
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I replaced the inlet valve and all works OK now. Cost of valve $45 AUS.
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| Posted: Mon Mar 6th, 2006 11:52 pm |
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10th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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