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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Admiral Dryer won't run model #LNC7764A71

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Admiral Dryer won't run model #LNC7764A71  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Tue Jan 24th, 2006 02:49 am
   
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rev-dude
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This dryer is about 8 years old and I haven't had any issues with it before.  The dryer suddenly quit running in the middle of a load and will not start nor is there any power allowing the inside light to come on.  I have power all the way into where the cord attaches to the machine.

There was an inordinate amount of lint build up in the hose vent.

My initial thought now is that it is a fuse problem but I don't know where to locate those or how to check them.


:headbang:

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 Posted: Tue Jan 24th, 2006 04:55 am
   
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applianceman18007260692
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If the light wont burn then the power is shut down by the fuse, it located on the right side of the heater element housing, it is held by a clip that uses the same screw that holds the heater element,  take off the front panel and remove the lint ball thats built up in front of the blower and check the blower wheel itself for tightness to the motor shaft ,to access the heater housing you must use a thin blade to compress the spring clips that hold down the top, they are about 2 inches from each side of the dryer between the top and front. this is a common problem on this dryer



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 Posted: Tue Jan 24th, 2006 06:55 am
   
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rev-dude
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Thanks...I have now done all of those things...I couldn't believe how much lint buildup there was on the blower assembly.  My only question was what the actual fuse looks like.  Looking at parts it seems that there are several fuses and I wasn't sure which one I should replace.

I attached a picture...does this look like the fuse I should replace?...the one attached to the element assembly?

Attachment: 00147326.jpg (Downloaded 77 times)

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 Posted: Tue Jan 24th, 2006 08:10 am
   
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bigger hammer



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thats one the other is a white one near the blower/fan housing.

tape the wires together from the black one, leave the back off and fire it up. if no go then do the same by jumping the wires from the white fuse and try again.

DO NOT LEAVE IT LIKE THIS.

the fuse poped cause of the lint build up. if it hadnt you woulda very well possibly had a fire to deal with.(unless you are one of those that turns on their dryer and then goes to bed - bad bad bad)

if still no go then update us and we'll walk you through more tests



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 Posted: Tue Jan 24th, 2006 05:22 pm
   
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rev-dude
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It Worked!  When I taped the two wires together on the top it ran like a champ.

I got my wife fooled into thinking I'm an appliance repairman stud.

I think I read somewhere that it's good to replace both fuses if you are going to replace any of them.  Is that true or do I only need to replace the one that was faulty?

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 Posted: Wed Jan 25th, 2006 06:54 am
   
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bigger hammer



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i would replace both fuses since you had an overheating situation. the other one may not be gone right at this minute but it definatelly has been "stressed". so since youre going to get a part at the store anyways you might as well save yourself a trip.

good job ! youre a pro now:D



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 Posted: Wed Jan 25th, 2006 07:53 am
   
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rev-dude
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Thanks so much for your help...my dryer is now in top operating condition again.  I really appreciate your promptness in answering my questions.  I can stop wearing all of those wet clothes now!

Blessings...

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 Posted: Fri Feb 20th, 2009 04:06 am
   
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ruvaldez
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I am having problems with an Admiral LNC7764A71 that won't run at all.  I have located the black fuse next to the heating coil and seems to be opened.  I tied wires together and it still won't run.  I have something that looks like a fuse down by the blower assembly but it has four wires.  I don't know if this is a fuse or not.  I can't seem to find the second fuse if this one is not it. Help please, wife is driving me MAD!

Last edited on Fri Feb 20th, 2009 04:07 am by ruvaldez

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 Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2009 07:44 pm
   
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applianceman18007260692
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If your element is in the rear top then the fuse is near it. The only other thing might be the door safety open. The 4 wire safety is just a control thermostat. It is called a biased heat thermostat because it has a small heater in it that makes it shut down faster for delicate or permapress.
http://sites.google.com/site/sublimeappliancerepair/washer-will-not-spin/agitator-woes/dryer-will-not-work/how-do-i-get-inside-my-dryer/dead-dryer

Attachment: admiral fuse kitr.jpg (Downloaded 20 times)

Last edited on Sun Mar 22nd, 2009 07:53 pm by applianceman18007260692



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 Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2009 08:03 pm
   
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RegUS_PatOff
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