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Neptune MAH3000 does not spin  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sun Nov 20th, 2005 10:28 pm
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Carlasue
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We have just purchased this model washer and matching dryer used for $200. The washer, however, will not spin. Is this something easily fixed or should we just kick it to the curb?

Thanks
Carlasue

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 Posted: Sun Nov 20th, 2005 10:43 pm
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Trying to help
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Is the door locking in the spin cycle?? 



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 Posted: Sun Nov 20th, 2005 11:01 pm
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Carlasue
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I have not used the machine here, just going on what the previous owner said.  Water was still in the machine when we moved it.  It is sitting in place, bit not hooked up entirely.  Should I finish hooking it up and try to run a cycle or is there an eiser way to tell if it's locking?

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 Posted: Sun Nov 20th, 2005 11:04 pm
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You don't have to hook it up completely, just plug it in. if there is not enough water in it to see, there shouldn't be much in there and pumping it into a bucket should be sufficient. If you want, you could look at the board behind the console for burns to the board as well.    



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 Posted: Mon Nov 21st, 2005 12:08 am
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Carlasue
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OK...plugged it in and turned it to spin, pushed the start button and the "on" indicator button lights up, but not the lock button. How do I look at the burn marks?

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 Posted: Mon Nov 21st, 2005 12:17 am
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ataormina
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I am having the exact same problem. I called this repair shop and the guy said that there was a recall on the machine that ended in August. He said that it was a motherboard issue that is also related to the motr which is a $220 part and with repair would cost about $350. I do not know what to do...please help

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 Posted: Mon Nov 21st, 2005 12:32 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Ataormina, the diagnosis you were given does not match the symptoms. If you washer tumbles but won't spin, which is what this thread is discussing, then it's highly unlikely that you're motor and motor controller board are bad. It is possible, maybe even likely, that the machine control board and wax motor are bad.

But this thread is stepping through the methodical troubleshooting of this problem under the worthy instruction of Trying to Help in order to prove what part is bad in accordance with Samurai's Ichiban Law of Appliance Repair. You're welcome to stick around and glean what pearls you can.

Last edited on Mon Nov 21st, 2005 12:33 am by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Mon Nov 21st, 2005 12:33 am
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Carlasue
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The exact model number is MAH3000AWW.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 21st, 2005 01:54 am
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ataormina
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Wow this is such a helpful site, and that is my model number also. I hope that what that guy told me is not true, because if it were just a bad switch then the swith is only 9.90, and I have located it and seems quite easy to replace. On the Maytag site it describes the switch as the spin and lock switch which is exactly what the machine is not doing.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 21st, 2005 09:44 pm
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ebanator
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Hi there,

Your issue is indeed the wax motor and the machine control board. What happens during the cycle is when the unit gets ready to spin and drain a switch in your door lock assembly has to be closed. this switch is closed by way of the wax motor engaging your door lock and the spin switch at the same time. Maytag has had this wax motor fail and in the process take out a resistor (r11) on the machine control board. You need a new wax motor and machine control board. Instuctions for replacement come with the parts. Good luck but expect to spend a good 2 or 300 bucks.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 22nd, 2005 06:07 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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You can check this visually. Pull the machine control board from the console and look at R11. May take you a while to find it, so get a flashlight and some patience. All the resistors are labelled, so you'll find it. If it's burnt, then the problem is ezzacly as Ebanator said. Here're the parts you need:

Machine Control Board

Wax Motor



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 Posted: Fri Oct 10th, 2008 02:32 pm
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AppGuy
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anyone remember the site that gave the homebrew workaround for a burnt wax motor?  I cant remember the values they were putting in for r11 and q6... 

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 Posted: Fri Oct 10th, 2008 03:18 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Maytag Technical Bulletin TDL-0052A-B

Mad Mac wrote:
There's some info on this (and other Neptune control board issues) at:

http://www.goetjen.com/maytag.htm

http://members.shaw.ca/gavb/index.html

 




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 Posted: Thu Jan 28th, 2010 03:13 am
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poconored
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Our MAH3000AWW is acting somewhat like this, but is not spinning correctly. It seems to wash OK & the door seems to lock OK, but on normal wash cycle the spin cycle seems slower and shorter than it did for the first 5-6-7 years (during which time we had the moldy-seal syndrome and warr. repair, and a board switch out).

Strangely, in the Quick Wash mode the spin cycle seems to work better than in the normal but still not up to par.

We have to manually run it through several (+) spin cycles in the Quick wash mode to achieve any reasonably spun load. Even when doing this, we have to re-start the spin cycle by unplugging the washer and going 'round to spin again. If we don't do this, the load can be dripping w/water coming out (even with Cotton/Max settings).

Hope this is not TMI, but it is baffling. Help/Advice/Counsel would be most welcome.

-Addled in Atlanta-

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 Posted: Thu Jan 28th, 2010 03:15 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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please start a New Topic



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