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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE Triton XL tripped breaker |
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE Triton XL tripped breaker |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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I have a GE Triton XL model #GSD6600G00BB that kicked the 20amp panel breaker sometime during the cycle. I reset the breaker and the dishwasher came on but it just seemed to be trying to drain. The motor never would come on. I removed power and ohmed out switchs and coils/solenoids. I found the float sw. micro got smoked- the arm and the insides of the sw. were burned. I suspected water got on the sw. and it shorted to ground thus kicking the breaker (I think that because I couldn't find any seal on the float itself). So I replaced the micro which is using the N.O. contact??? and now I get the motor to run but I'm not getting any water. I'm not getting any voltage to the water intlet coil/solenoid. It reads about 1130 ohms disconnected (seems high to me for AC). I removed the front panel (didn't find the tech sheet) and found relays soldered onto the pcb. Help please? How can I work my way back? Last edited on Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 05:53 pm by elevatorman |
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Jedi Appliance Guy Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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Float switch is NC. Opens when full, stopping the voltage to the fill valve. |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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That's what I would of thought, the harness/plug connector only can go on the micro one way. The micro has three pins and the connector has 3 holes and 2 wires. The wires line up on the N.O. contact. I made sure and doublechecked that. I guess I need to check it again. |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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I just double checked, the pins on the micro are offset so the connector goes on one way. The bracket that holds the micro has a notch for the connector to snap on, it can only go one way also. Can anyone help out with some prints?? I also disconnected the float sw. and put a jumper across the 2 wires on the plug connector~ to check if N.C. would put voltage on water intlet and it tripped the breaker again. I'm wondering now if I should just change the water inlet assy to see if that coil/solenoid is the culprit for smoking the float sw. and tripping the breaker. Last edited on Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 08:32 pm by elevatorman |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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Jedi Appliance Guy Thanks for your response earlier Jedi. I know it seems weird but the float sw. on this dishwasher appears to me to be N.O. |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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Oh please Mr. Samurai..... Can you chime in?? |
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Jedi Appliance Guy Sublime Master of Appliantology
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elevatorman wrote: I also disconnected the float sw. and put a jumper across the 2 wires on the plug connector~ to check if N.C. would put voltage on water intlet and it tripped the breaker again. I'm wondering now if I should just change the water inlet assy to see if that coil/solenoid is the culprit for smoking the float sw. and tripping the breaker. Sounds to me like your fill solenoid may be shorted. Why not do the same thing again only this time disconnect the two wires going to the fill solenoid. Or you could ohm it out if you have a meter. The older I get the harder it gets to tell the difference between those little NO and NC markings on those little switches Of course wait for the Samurai's blessing before attempting this. |
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Moostafa The Ayatollah of Appliantology 
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Hello, my chiming friend. Although I am not the blessed and all-glorious Samurai, I pray that you would tolerate the ramblings of an old man who wets himself only a little. It seems to me that the answers to your questions regarding the float switch are right there at your dishwasher. The wiring diagram is located underneath the dishwasher, look all around, especially on the right hand side on the bottom of the tub. Use a flashlight or oil-burning lantern for illumination. |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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Thanks for the responses. The fill solenoid reads 1130 ohms and I do understand if it's damaged, it could short/fail when voltage is applied. I'll try disconnecting the wires Jedi. Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 02:50 am by elevatorman |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Were you able to locate the wiring diagram? |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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Thanks Samurai but not yet, I'll look in the AM. Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 03:29 am by elevatorman |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Jedi Appliance Guy wrote:Float switch is NC. Opens when full, stopping the voltage to the fill valve. No Jedi, Float switch is N.O. but weight of float resting on switch arm closes the N.O. switch so water can fill. When water gets to high and raises float off switch arm switch goes into N.O. state and stops water, (I know you know this, we all get a little confussed as we get older). |
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Jedi Appliance Guy Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Oops! Thank you for your tactful correction Willie. Yes, even a Jedi Knight is still human. |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote:No Jedi, Float switch is N.O. but weight of float resting on switch arm closes the N.O. switch so water can fill. When water gets to high and raises float off switch arm switch goes into N.O. state and stops water, (I know you know this, we all get a little confussed as we get older). Thanks, I was pretty sure it had to be N.O. Mr. Budget. But on my new micro sw. I installed the float doesn't compress the it to the N.C. state, is this not going to work? I couldn't find the exact brand micro but I thought this one would work. I put a meter on it and I have to push down on the float to make the contact. Do you think I should of just ordered a replacement float sw. assy?? Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 03:39 pm by elevatorman |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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Were you able to locate the wiring diagram? I removed the front panel and searched behind the soundproofing and such. I couldn't find the prints.
Sounds to me like your fill solenoid may be shorted. Why not do the same thing again only this time disconnect the two wires going to the fill solenoid. I jumped the float wires w/ it and the fill solenoid disconnected and the breaker still kicked. I was suspiscious about the fill solenoid because it has read 1120, 1135, and now it reads 1105 ohms- that's disconnected w/ a Fluke meter. It's looking more and more like I'm going to have to call a repairman, I've found it very difficult to troubleshoot w/out prints. Unless someone knows how I can access some prints, I'm going to have to stick to fixing elevators. Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 05:38 pm by elevatorman |
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Jedi Appliance Guy Sublime Master of Appliantology
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To find the tech sheet. Take out the 4 1/4 inch screws that hold the two parts of the service panel in place. Lay down on the floor on your left side and look under the dishwasher. You'll notice there is a piece of sheet metal lining the underside of the tub. The tech sheet is tucked between the tub and the sheet metal on the right side of the machine toward the front. Grab the sheet with your left hand. |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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Jedi Appliance Guy wrote:To find the tech sheet. Thanks Jedi, I've been laying on my right side & stomach the whole time and never noticed them. Here we go!! |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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I've found a short in the water valve solenoid circuit. It's a little confusing but the feed (pink wire- hot feed from the PCB) goes to one side of the float sw.= then a yellow leaves the float and goes to one side of the solenoid (which has another yellow that goes some heat shrink that I cut off(that insulates a connection of what looks like a diode w/out a band marking the cathode and some numbers that make you think it's a resistor= THIS IS SHORTED both directions) then turns into the white red which is the neutral. The other side of the water valve is 2 white reds. So you have nuetral on both sides w/ this component shorted. I'm going to try to attatch a pic. Note the diode looking object coming from the yellow wire side of the water valve- the wire changes to a white red=neutral wire [which is the same as the other side of the water valve which equals a direct short. Is this for the field to collapse around the coil and save contacts? or supress spikes to board? BTW- This shorted component is NOT on the prints! It's time for the wise ones to step in!! Oh Samurai, Jedi... What is this mysterious component? Attachment: DSC01840.JPG (Downloaded 32 times) Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 09:14 pm by elevatorman |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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elevatorman wrote:BTW- This shorted component is NOT on the prints! I'll make that determination-- post the wiring diagram. |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote:elevatorman wrote: Attachment: DSC01843.JPG (Downloaded 62 times) Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 09:50 pm by elevatorman |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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If something's not on the wiring diagram, then two possibilities exist: 1. it's the wrong wiring diagram 2. it doesn't belong there Has this dishwasher ever been worked on before? Disconnect the undocumented diode and try running the dishwasher that way. Good catch in finding that mystery component, by the way.  |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote:If something's not on the wiring diagram, then two possibilities exist: Mr. Samurai, thanks for taking your time out for me. Should I contact GE to verify the prints fit this unit? The wiring worksmanship of the diode appears factory. The dishwasher came new w/ the new house about 3 yrs ago. Only other issue was the day after move in the dishwasher wasn't getting any water. GE tech came out (I wasn't home) and said it wasn't getting water from the house supply. He was right, the plumbers waterline from sink was too short and kinked, I helped the plumber put the longer line on. It should run normal w/out the "mystery component", I just wonder how I'll get an answer from GE. I was going to try to replace the mystery component, good luck huh? I need to get a new flood switch asm because the float Mr. Budget was referring to isn't compressing the microsw. I bought. Unless a spring pushes the egg shape cap down on the float actuator, mine won't compress w/ the weight only. Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 11:53 pm by elevatorman |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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The float microswitches on GE dishwashers have an extra light spring action-- you have to use a factory original part for this. Without question, you need to verify that you have the correct wiring diagram. I really don't see any reason for the diode to be there... assuming water inlet valve operates on 120vac, not some DC voltage. You can easily verify this with your meter without having to hook up the valve or float switch, just as you have it in your first photo. Once you verify that the valve is using 120vac, the next step would be to remove the diode run the dishwasher. My money says it will work just fine. By the way, this dishwasher is another example of dumbass appliance manufacturers using electronic controls on a wet appliance-- always a bad idea and I've never seen it work reliably. |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I looked over the wiring diagram, either I'm blind or your correct -- it's not noted on the diagram anywhere. I expected to find a wiring harness/loom for this part only, somewhere on the parts breakdown/list but no wiring parts listed there either, Hmmmm...... I don't really know electronic theroy but whould venture to guess that is something to do with suppressing noise or electric feed back into electronic control when valve is open/closed. Last edited on Mon Apr 25th, 2005 09:54 am by Budget Appliance Repair |
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edwardh1 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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seems a bad case of exposed hot electrical parts too. |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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I had my electronics supply place run the numbers on the "mystery component". It's a 220VAC transient surpressor= A really fast zener diode that shunts out spikes. He and I discussed the circuit and he felt I should put another of those back in the circuit w/ a MOV= to zeners back to back, in parallel w/ the surpressor. He said the surpressor is REALLY fast and the MOV is slower which will cover all bases. Thanks so much Samurai, Budget and all of you other people that helped me with my problem. Last edited on Mon Apr 25th, 2005 09:12 pm by elevatorman |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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elevatorman wrote: I had my electronics supply place run the numbers on the "mystery component". It's a 220VAC transient surpressor= A really fast zener diode that shunts out spikes. He and I discussed the circuit and he felt I should put another of those back in the circuit w/ a MOV= to zeners back to back, in parallel w/ the surpressor. He said the surpressor is REALLY fast and the MOV is slower which will cover all bases. Thanks so much Samurai, Budget and all of you other people that helped me with my problem. Hey, that's great information-- thanks for the followup!  |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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You're so welcome. |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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edwardh1 wrote:seems a bad case of exposed hot electrical parts too. Edward, Those bare electrical connections were all covered by heat shrink tubing before the "Grasshopper" started working on the unit. The heat shrink had to be removed, of coarse, to find the problem. |
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elevatorman Grasshopper
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Well now that I have the bad float switch and the short fixed , I can't get voltage to the water valve. I ran through their diagnostic test and the detergent door is not opening, and the water valve solenoid's not getting voltage. I do however hear the relays pick up on the pcb during the test. I guess I'm going to have to spring for an $85 control module pcb.  |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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It's possible something went bad on the control board when the surge suppressor shorted. Lots of times, it ends up being a burned solder connection on the board. Pull it out and examine the solder connections carefully-- if you see a burned one, re-solder it. You may get lucky! |
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