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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Whirlpool Washer wont spin |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2   |
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| Whirlpool Washer wont spin | Rate Topic |
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| You have chosen to ignore jon2249. click Here to view this post |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 9th, 2005 07:19 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Probably just a bad lid switch. Details here.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 9th, 2005 07:28 pm |
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4th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Lots of wear evident on that drive coupler; you should replace it, too.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 9th, 2005 07:46 pm |
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6th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Hmm, not good. Could be a badly worn coupler that's binding the motor. Take the cabinet off as explained in the links I sent you, jumper out the outer two wires of the lid switch harness and run the washer to locate the source of the noise you're hearing in the spin cycle.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 9th, 2005 09:24 pm |
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8th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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That is definitely the sound of a worn out coupler. Piece of pie! A single mug on the SUDs-o-Meter.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Mon Oct 10th, 2005 10:38 am |
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9th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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While you're in fixing this you should be replacing the pump also before it ruins the front motor bearings. There are deffinite signs of leakage from the pump seal in your pictures. Here's the pump you need: CLICK HEREto order And the drive coupling: CLICK HERE to order
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| You have chosen to ignore Jon2249. click Here to view this post |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 14th, 2005 08:53 pm |
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11th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Never seen any direct drive pump attached with a screw unless it is an aftermarket pump, OEM pumps are held on only with the two clamps, if it will not pull off the pump bearings are stuck to the shaft of the motor because of rust swelling the motor shaft, this happens when the pump has been leaking for months. About down to smashing the pump off and hope you can sand the motor shaft back to close to normal so it will accept a new pump.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic! 
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| Posted: Fri Oct 14th, 2005 09:34 pm |
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13th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Assuming there are no screws holding it, there are 2 shipping screws holding the two clips that hold the motor on, are these what you are seeing? If the pump does not pull off we have had to smash them off with sharp tools and big hammer. It is leaking anyway, do not see why you would not want to change it? If you cannot get the pump off or of the motor shaft is too damaged to install a new pump you will be replacing the pump and motor both. If you want to leave the leaking pump on the washer just remove the pump and motor together as one unit to get to the coupler.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| You have chosen to ignore jon2249. click Here to view this post |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 15th, 2005 02:46 am |
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16th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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It was already leaking, had been for months or years, going to have to smash it off and replace it now.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Sat Oct 15th, 2005 03:42 am |
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17th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Jon, don't get discouraged and give up. I know right now it seems like a whole can of worms, but you're fixing long-standing problems with this washer and it is basically a very good machine, one of the best top-loaders made today, in my less-than-humble opinion. Persevere and ye shall overcome!
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 15th, 2005 04:15 am |
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18th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Yes, the Master is correct, this is about the best washer on the market and will be worth the effort. 
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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