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JUNK GE GSS20IEMBWW new motherboard  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Wed Sep 28th, 2005 06:09 am
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RandyRAS



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Have a GE SXS Ref, GSS20IEMBWW, quit defrosting about three months ago, installed a new BRD/HARNESS ASSY #WR55X10150 and then installed BOARD ASM MAIN DOMEST #WR55X10335 worked fine after that.....except that it is a GE....now doing the same thing, how do I check were the problem is, and what is causing it. is there any way to default this into defrost, doesnt say on the tech sheet.        Have checked the element, ok, and the thermal cut-off, OK both have cont. what ever happened to the good old, advance the Def. Timer.

Also, could this problem be in the motherboard, and caused by power surge, or other "Dirty" electricity? live in the woods, way back in the woods, you know the kind pipe in sunshine.

 

 

 

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 Posted: Thu Sep 29th, 2005 06:12 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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RandyRAS wrote:
Also, could this problem be in the motherboard, and caused by power surge, or other "Dirty" electricity? live in the woods, way back in the woods, you know the kind pipe in sunshine.

Samurai's 11th Law of Appliance Repair illumines us in this hour of darkness, "Raw power is dirty power.

The parts should have a one year manufacturer's warranty, see about returning them under warranty.



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 Posted: Fri Sep 30th, 2005 02:17 am
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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    A bad evaporator thermistor will stop a GSS from defrosting.  A good evaporator thermistor with a tiny amount water and ice inside it will also stop a GSS from defrosting.

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 Posted: Sat Oct 8th, 2005 05:37 pm
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RandyRAS



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  A bad evaporator thermistor will stop a GSS from defrosting.  A good evaporator thermistor with a tiny amount water and ice inside it will also stop a GSS from defrosting.


Can you tell me how to test this to find out if it is bad? or good?

 

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 Posted: Sat Oct 8th, 2005 06:21 pm
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Fixum
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as Randy said the trermistor will likely be the problem with the unit not defrosting, I would replace it normally when i replace a board, just keeps murphy law from coming into the frey.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 8th, 2005 11:18 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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RandyRAS wrote:
Can you tell me how to test this to find out if it is bad? or good?
You would test it the same way you test an oven sensor, Randy-- they're basically the same thing, just different applications. All they are is a glob of semi-conductor material with a positive temperature coefficient (PTC); all that means is that their resistance increases as the temperature increases. The resistance is read periodically by the mother board (in a range, the ERC). So, to make a short answer long, all you're doing is looking for some resistance in the low K-ohms. If they're bad, they're either gonna be slap-open or have a resistance in the mega-ohms.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 02:43 pm
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They are right, that therminstor is a real problem, had a few that are intermittent that sometimes work and not work, for the price its best to replace it, let me kow if you need the resistance chart for the specs on the resistance to temp valve, I always check them manually, as the built it test program will should there good when it fact they are not, since it is such a wide range resistance valve, you sometimes need to check the resistance at the current temp in the box on that sensor to see if it is correct, the few I had said the evaporator was forty degrees when it was below 0 thus when it went into defrost it thinks it done already as it sees the evap at 40 degrees rather than 0 and the heaters will either come on for too short a time or not at all..............John

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 Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 07:20 pm
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jabko



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Here is the sheet I designed for my personnel use on the GE units for trouble shooting from the rear , use at your own risk..........John

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 Posted: Fri Oct 14th, 2005 02:30 am
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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Sir Jabco,  

  Truly you are at one with the Force.   Thank you not only for the single sheet of paper crammed with diagnostic info,  but for your efforts in compiling it as well.  Obviously you have battled the GSS as much as, if not more than myself.  

   Surely you have experienced the "fan noise" that seems to come and go for a week or so every year or so.  I have explained it as a flaw with the adaptive defrost that allows ice and frost to form on the fan blade and shroud from time to time and it'll go away and it always does.  However, after reading your post a thought popped into my head that perhaps it may be thermistor related.  Do you have any thought on this matter?

May the Force continue to be with you.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 14th, 2005 02:42 am
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jabko



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Sounds feasable if there is a shorted than required defrost time, also had I/M leak down to the same area causing a frost build up, some of these fans also became noisy on there own, and if not replaced may cause the pc board to fail, due to the position GE installed the fan water was able to migrate down the shaft through the bearing causing a motor failue, if you find a bad evap. motor might also need the board, let me know if anyone needs the dianogisis progam information, the models with the LED display can be tested from the touch pads, if it is a decoder model (knobs) you need the parts listed on the spec sheet, there is a access plug under the freezer hinge to plug it in.................John

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 Posted: Fri Oct 14th, 2005 04:51 am
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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Sir Jabco,

    I have battled these beast, manufactured by the great Satan of appliance manufacturers GE, since the early days (2001).  I have been responsible for thousands of these machines since they came out of warranty.  I have changed a chute door solenoid and chute door in 12 minutes.  I have been sending my service contract customers (with replacement coverage) back to GE long before they would admit they had defective doors.   I know that my coaching is responsible for thousands of my customers getting new doors from GE at no charge.  I can diagnose and replace a bad damper assembly in under half an hour.  I could go on but I think the point is made. 

   I can't help but think however, that is is possible, you have battled them even more.  I am sure any information you post on these monsters (actually I'm starting to like them) would benefit all who gaze upon it.  
 

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 Posted: Fri Oct 14th, 2005 05:18 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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That has got to be one of the coolest, if not THE coolest, technician cheat sheet I've ever seen! Mucho domos for posting that, Jabko! :coolblast:



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 Posted: Fri Oct 14th, 2005 07:17 am
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RandyRAS



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Jabco, you rock,  personally I prefer Whirlpool product, and if I could would only service it, but with my local I find myself working on the worst of them, Garbage Engineered (GE) is the worst for me, hope that you are not a fan of the GE, but if you are then you should be granted a new esteamed title, you have my many thanks:notworthy:

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 Posted: Wed Jul 25th, 2007 04:15 am
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mike1148
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Hi  I got that same  model ge and having the same problem with evap frosting up

with heater and d. themostate checking out ok.

did you ever find out how to force a defrost with it ? I read the post but cant find a  listing for forceing a defrost on a ge s/s the same model as your posting

also would like to know where those thermisters are located and what the look like

 thanks for any help.

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 Posted: Wed Jul 25th, 2007 11:01 am
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jabko



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You say that you have replaced the defrost heater and defrost thermostat, which defrost thermostat did you replace, there is just one defrost thermostat, its not the one looks like the typical defrost thermostat, its the white colored one about the thickness of a pencil attached to the evaporator with a 1 inch long clip, its the same as the temp. sensors, what looks like a normal defrost thermostat is a high temp safety in case all else fails to shut the heater off.

I have seen thes fail quite often, there resistance change when it fails and basically will cause the board to think its already defrosted by sending a temp thats above the defrost cycle terminating temp,thus prevents the heater from coming on.

This defrost thermostat will also look like the one of the sensor near the floor of the freezer. About a inch and a quarter long / about a 1/4" thick all white plastic with two white wire comming out the back...............................good luck.

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 Posted: Wed Jul 25th, 2007 04:05 pm
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mike1148
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well what I said was I omhed out the heaters and d thermosate ... guess its called a safty on these s's ... So if i understand you right the themisters taken the place of the defrost themostates and they just kick in when the thermister dont shut the heater down..by the time it reaches the d themostate temp. ... ooohh you said theres one at the bottom... does it just work with the therister at the top sensing the temp at botton of evap? or whats its purpose...and if so.. will this also give trouble to defrosting cycle?  thanks for the help

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 Posted: Wed Jul 25th, 2007 05:34 pm
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jabko



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The one located on the bottom sends the freezer temp to the pc board to control the freezer temps, the one attached to the evap. is used for defrosting control.

If you jump J9 to J11 on the board it will turn on the heater and thus verify that the limit control and heater are OK, be careful if you do this as L1 is hot, if the compressor is runnig at the time the heater will also come on, you can unplug it first to be safe and install a jumper and then reconnect unit, heater should start to heat if both the limit and heater are good. If this works its probably just a bad thermister on the evaporator

The thermisters are cheap enough, I would just replace it and check it in a day or to to make sure the frost is not returning.

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 Posted: Wed Jul 25th, 2007 06:34 pm
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mike1148
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Thank you very much for your help jabko.. got another question.. i been trying to find a manual on these ge s's and havnt been able to find one .. 

I tried ge a while ago and they didnt have any updated manuals on these newer s's with adaptive defrost.. is there somewhere i can get one?... Another question...

Does the thermister regulate amps or watts with resistance??...From what Im understanding ....its Not just a on and off ..like a defrost themostate?? or is it?

And is there a way on ge's to force the defrost with the m. board or the only way is to  just jumb at m.board  to check heaters ect.. 

 But  That still dont tell ya if the mother board is going thu a defrost cycle.

Thanks  again for all your help!

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 Posted: Wed Jul 25th, 2007 06:43 pm
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Pegi
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On these Ge friges you cannot put them into a defrost cycle, the line to defrost test just checks to see if it is working or not, if the compressor is running it will continue to do so...strange friges these....



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 Posted: Wed Jul 25th, 2007 06:51 pm
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jabko



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Depending on what model you have you can force a defrost cycle , on most digial display models, if it has knobs to set temps you need the sevice tool to force a defrost cycle, with the digital display models you can force all test modes, like compressor / fan / damper / defrost etc.

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 Posted: Wed Jul 25th, 2007 07:00 pm
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Poobah
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If you notice the diagram that Jabko has posted you will see the thermistor value chart, this shows the resistance value the thermistor should have at a particular temp.  Having already changed the safety and the heater there is only the thermistor and the board left.  The thermistor is the lkely culprit as already stated, the older ones are prominent for going bad.  I have had them show to be in spec and still not work right, so I change them on every job I do automatically (besides there in-expensive anyway). Trouble is there is no real way (I know of) to test the board. Change the thermistor and keep an eye on it if it does freeze up you will be changing the board,  if not then you GTG......good  luck ....check back



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 Posted: Wed Jul 25th, 2007 07:27 pm
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mike1148
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Guess no one knows where i could find a tech manual on GE sxs?

THank you  for all your Help!!! Sure is nice to talk with people that has the same oppinion of ge as i do... thanks again

 

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 Posted: Wed Jul 25th, 2007 08:13 pm
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Pegi
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The Samurai has them on the X-drive for us techs, if you will wait for him to get in from his Fix-it-Do'ing this evening or tomorrow, he might be so inclined to post a link to a manual for you, we cannot do this, only the Samurai..;)



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 Posted: Thu Jul 26th, 2007 12:05 am
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mike1148
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I sure thank all you guys for  the quick responses and great info.... best forum I ever been too... I figured it would be days for i got a response.

thanks again! Mike Johnson

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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 07:04 pm
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dp_sos
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Jabko,

Would it be possible for you to post or send me the tech sheet you developed?  It would be most appreciated!  --Duc

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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 07:38 pm
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jabko



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Click on the link below, or do a google search for a wr55x10656 and click on pictures to search and it comes up on the first page, this tech sheet is getting old and the board on the newer unit has additional plugs, the board the sheet was on a wr55x10552, good luck email if you need assistance with a problem, John



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 Posted: Wed Aug 5th, 2009 02:57 am
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elmonducky
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just read this, any chance of getting a copy of your "cheat sheet"?????

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 Posted: Wed Aug 5th, 2009 04:28 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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did you click on the thumbnail in the above link ?



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 Posted: Wed Aug 5th, 2009 07:41 pm
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dp_sos
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Mucho Gracias, Jabko!  The diagram looks very informative.  I have a different model, GE GSS23SGSBSS, but I hope the schematic is still applicable.   Thanks again!  -- Duc

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