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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Washer won't drain... |
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| Kenmore Washer won't drain... | Rating: 
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| Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 01:21 am |
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1st Post |
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Chris in Florida Grasshopper
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Kenmore Washer Model# 110.20942991 Symptom: Washer will not drain after wash cycle. Washer attempts to drain for approx. 2-3 seconds and then stops. Timer will continue to advance and several clicks and slight humming sounds can be heard, but no further activity takes place. Steps at diagnosis taken to date: 1. Checked continuity of lid switch. - Lid switch checked OK. 2. Manually drained the washer with plastic cup to reduce weight of machine for waterpump inspection. - Waterpump appears to be in excellent working condition. Impeller spins freely by hand. - Waterpump OK. 3. Checked drain hose for blockage. - Drain hose OK. 4. Returned washer to upright position, reloaded wet laundry back into washer and set timer to spin cycle. Washer operated perfectly throughout spin, rinse and final spin cycle. 5. I repeated these steps with another load of laundry with similar results. Once the wash cycle ends, the washer will only continue if I manually drain it completely by hand. Seeing that both the agitation and spin cycles are performed perfectly once the washer is drained, I don't believe there is anything wrong with the motor... Right? Am I missing something?  Thanks, Chris in Florida
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| Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 03:07 am |
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2nd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Your pump is shot. Come git you one: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=3296
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 05:13 am |
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3rd Post |
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Chris in Florida Grasshopper
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: Your pump is shot. Come git you one: Riddle me this Master, I just found if I set the washer to Handwash/Casual instead of Heavy Duty or Regular it operates perfectly! I'm stumped. I currently have the entire housing removed from the washer while I am running tests and the pump seems to be working perfectly. Would these results cause one to believe that the timer may be bad? Chris in Florida
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| Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 02:56 pm |
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4th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Chris in Florida wrote:I just found if I set the washer to Handwash/Casual instead of Heavy Duty or Regular it operates perfectly! I'm stumped. Ok, garbage-in, garbage-out: my prognostications will only be as good as the grist you put through in the mill. No, these new observations are very significant and they point to either a bad motor or a bad timer. You can ohm out the speed windings on the motor using the wiring diagram pasted to the inside of the back panel of the washer. There was a problem with some of these timers energizing two speed windings simultaneously, creating the symptoms you describe and others, including dimming/pulsating lights, burning smell, etc. You can prove or disprove this is the problem by using your voltmeter to measure for the presence of 120v on more than one speed winding simultaneously when running the washer in the condition that produced the original complaint. Last edited on Tue Sep 20th, 2005 06:22 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man ____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 06:14 pm |
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5th Post |
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Chris in Florida Grasshopper
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Thank you very much sir. I will check both of them out when I get home and post my findings. Thanks again, Chris in Florida
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2005 02:04 am |
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6th Post |
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Chris in Florida Grasshopper
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Okay, I checked the resistance values on the motor's three different speeds and it's start-up. They were all within 1-2 tenths of an ohm from spec. Next, I checked to see if the motor was receiving 120VAC to more than one speed at anytime. Negative on that one also. Any ideas? Chris in Florida
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2005 01:51 pm |
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7th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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How are you measuring the voltage on the motor? After reading this:4. Returned washer to upright position,... it sounds like you're not removing the cabinet and, therefore, have not inspected the motor and pump area. Do tell.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2005 06:32 pm |
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8th Post |
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Chris in Florida Grasshopper
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I apologize for being unclear. During my initial steps of troubleshooting (checking waterpump, drainhose) the housing was still intact. Once I read a few threads on this forum and learned that the lid switches were a common problem, I removed the entire housing from the unit. All of the voltage and resistance tests were conducted with the housing removed. New development: While attempting to diagnose the problem last evening, I found that the washer will indeed drain in the heavy duty (fast/fast) setting as long as the load size is set to Medium or smaller. If the load setting is raised to Med/Large or Large it will not drain. Chris
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2005 07:17 pm |
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9th Post |
GLC
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Pardon my jumping in here but I find this one unique. If you have already answered and I missed it please bear with me too. I wonder if you hear the motor trying to run the pump when you have the water level set to high? Or does it just stop at any and all pump outs and there is no nopise when it is set to high water level? Pump outs occur after each agitate too. Or is this happening only after the fill, agitate, drain, repeat cycle... then it stops pumping only at the spin cycle...when you have used the high water level?
____________________ Unless specifically asked otherwise, remember to test with the unit unplugged, or breaker off. CLICK HERE TO BUY PARTS Appliance Repair In Maryland http://serviceeveryday.com |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2005 07:27 pm |
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10th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Good points Gordon, wondering now if the fill level switch is malfunctioning, cutting the power to the timer thus the motor....is the motor dead when it does this?? Need to see where you are losing voltage when it does if the motor is in fact cutting out.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic! 
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| Posted: Thu Sep 22nd, 2005 03:31 am |
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11th Post |
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Chris in Florida Grasshopper
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GLC wrote: Pardon my jumping in here but I find this one unique. If you have already answered and I missed it please bear with me too. The motor does attempt to run for about 2-3 seconds before shutting off. It actually manages to pump out about a cup or two of water. A low humming noise is emitted from the timer afterward leading me to believe the contacts in the timer may be bad. If I bail the washer out manually with a cup after the agitation cycle it will pump itself out after the rinse cycle. I rarely use the second rinse cycle setting, but I will in my next test session. Chris
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| Posted: Thu Sep 22nd, 2005 03:58 am |
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12th Post |
GLC
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this is the wierdest stuff going on here. I'll just toss out stuff that I may do if I were there just to keep testing. Since you had the cabinet off already and know how to jump the lid switch to make the unit run while the cabinet is off please do the same thing. ONLY this time have the pump off and set to the left side. (HOSES STILL ON PUMP) Just take a coat hanger or something and keep it (the pump) off to the left side. Place the timer in a pump / spin and let me know if the motor is in fact running the entire time the timer is engaged in spin. I wonder if the motor is binding up sometimes - somewher?????? Or if the pump is binding up????? I don't really know just trying stuff. If the motor does run...then stops, carefully touch the side of the motor and feel if it is overly hot. If it does not stop, the pump may be binding up some where. I have not had it happen but who knows now. Let me know. Last edited on Thu Sep 22nd, 2005 04:01 am by GLC ____________________ Unless specifically asked otherwise, remember to test with the unit unplugged, or breaker off. CLICK HERE TO BUY PARTS Appliance Repair In Maryland http://serviceeveryday.com |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 22nd, 2005 10:17 am |
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13th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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GLC wrote:ONLY this time have the pump off and set to the left side. (HOSES STILL ON PUMP) Just take a coat hanger or something and keep it (the pump) off to the left side. Just a helpful hint for other techs (or Grasshoppers) here. Don't you know they have a special hole in the left support leg just to hold the pump out of the way when working on the motor or testing??????? Just stick a screwdriver in that hole and stick pump up behind screw driver, quick, easy and convenient.
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 22nd, 2005 01:22 pm |
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14th Post |
GLC
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yup, i use it all day long with my phillips that fits perfectly in there. I never knew it was there just for that. I thought I just came up with that one day , but it was just simplier for me to say tie it off to the left side and many will see the hole or then at least figure out to use the bracket or even the leg.  Last edited on Thu Sep 22nd, 2005 01:23 pm by GLC ____________________ Unless specifically asked otherwise, remember to test with the unit unplugged, or breaker off. CLICK HERE TO BUY PARTS Appliance Repair In Maryland http://serviceeveryday.com |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 22nd, 2005 06:08 pm |
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15th Post |
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Mad Mac Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: Just a helpful hint for other techs (or Grasshoppers) here. About 3-4 years ago, Whirlpool went from the rubber internal drain hoses to a more flexible plastic type. I started to see holes appearing in these from them rubbing on the frame. I tied the replacement hoses to the frame using that hole. Several months later, I started to see the hoses appearing with a clamp which engaged into that hole. Evidently, I wasn't the only one seeing this....
____________________ Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere. |
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| Posted: Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 09:08 am |
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16th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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GLC wrote:yup, i use it all day long with my phillips that fits perfectly in there. I never knew it was there just for that. I don't think that what it was but there for, (possible though), I was just trying to be funny along with the tech hint.
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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