| Author | Post |
|---|
PeterN
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Mon Sep 19th, 2005 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 2 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
My 4 year old machine model # FWT647GHSO has stopped moving cycles. The timer moves ahead, but it only washes. It will not go into drain and then spin. I think this happend when the power went out in the middle of a cycle. I tried unplugging it for 15 minutes in the hopes that the computer would reset. I have tried running it through full cycles, but it only keeps on washing never letting new water in, draining or spinning!
What should I do next?
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology

| Joined: | Mon Mar 21st, 2005 |
| Location: | Otterville, USA |
| Posts: | 12943 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Kirin Ichiban |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Remove the front panel, take the suction hose off the pump and remove the coins and bobby pins from the pump impeller. Good to go.

|
PeterN
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Mon Sep 19th, 2005 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 2 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Samurai Man you are truly honourable! Your straightforward advice has saved me from Fridigaire Factory Service. I have made a contribution to the United Samuari Beer Fund as an expression of my gratitude!
Thank You.
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology

| Joined: | Mon Mar 21st, 2005 |
| Location: | Otterville, USA |
| Posts: | 12943 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Kirin Ichiban |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Glad I could help. And much domos for the brewskis! 
|
| You have chosen to ignore tofte9. click Here to view this post |
|---|
| Posted: Mon Oct 3rd, 2005 12:15 am |
|
5th Post |
tofte9
Lurking at the Threshold
| Joined: | |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
My same machine drains but doesn't spin. I checked the pump for obstructions but there were none. The belt is still on the motor. I can spin the drum and see the motor rote.Thanks
|
|
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology

| Joined: | Mon Mar 21st, 2005 |
| Location: | Otterville, USA |
| Posts: | 12943 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Kirin Ichiban |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Drain but no-spin is a totally different problem. That's either gonna be the door latch assembly or the speed control board.
|
| You have chosen to ignore tofte9. click Here to view this post |
|---|
| Posted: Mon Oct 3rd, 2005 11:00 am |
|
7th Post |
tofte9
Lurking at the Threshold
| Joined: | |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Thanks for the reply. The door still locks, so does that rule out the door assembly part?
|
|
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology

| Joined: | Mon Mar 21st, 2005 |
| Location: | Otterville, USA |
| Posts: | 12943 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Kirin Ichiban |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Lock light comes on and tapping the door at the latch area doesn't kick it off? Probably looking at replacing the speed control board. Remove the front bottom quarter panel and get the tech sheet. It has a procedure for testing the motor and speed control board.
|
| You have chosen to ignore tofte9. click Here to view this post |
|---|
| Posted: Tue Oct 4th, 2005 09:16 pm |
|
9th Post |
tofte9
Lurking at the Threshold
| Joined: | |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
I bought an amp probe and tried to follow the test procedures. I got 120 volts across pins 5&6, but the next step puzzled me. Would you suggest I order a board and hope this is the correct part based on what I've told you? It looks easy enough to install. When I get home I could respond with the directions that confused me.Thanks.
|
|
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology

| Joined: | Mon Mar 21st, 2005 |
| Location: | Otterville, USA |
| Posts: | 12943 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Kirin Ichiban |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Most of the time, these problems are a bad speed control board. If you order a new one from this link and it doesn't fix it, you can return it.
|
| You have chosen to ignore tofte9. click Here to view this post |
|---|
tofte9
Lurking at the Threshold
| Joined: | |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Hey Samuri Repair Man. You were right. I overnighted a new board and everythings copasetic. Enjoy the beers.
|
|
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology

| Joined: | Mon Mar 21st, 2005 |
| Location: | Otterville, USA |
| Posts: | 12943 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Kirin Ichiban |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Cool beans, dude! Thanks for letting us know how it turned out. And mucho domos for the brewskis! 
|
bridget
Grasshopper
| Joined: | Thu Apr 13th, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 1 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote:
Remove the front panel, take the suction hose off the pump and remove the coins and bobby pins from the pump impeller. Good to go.

I'm trying to check this out on my machine, but I can't get the hose off the pump. (Just to verify--in the picture this hose is fastened with a red clamp, right?) I did manage to pry the clamp that fastens the "coin catcher" thing and, of course, dumped water all over the inside of the machine--however, there does not seem to be anything choking off the water flow in this area. Is there some trick to this that I'm missing? Thank you.
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology

| Joined: | Mon Mar 21st, 2005 |
| Location: | Otterville, USA |
| Posts: | 12943 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Kirin Ichiban |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
The suction hose IS the coin catcher thingy. Sounds like you already removed it.
|
inadancer
Grasshopper
| Joined: | Mon Jun 26th, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 4 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
similar problem here at my house...my washer keeps stopping and starting through its cycle....realized today that when you push on the door it starts again. the door lock light remains on all the time....what part do i need to replace? the whole door lock/latch kit assembly with the wiring and everything? or just the door lock/switch assembly?
|
AccApp
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Sat Jun 3rd, 2006 |
| Location: | Eatontown, New Jersey USA |
| Posts: | 1740 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Magic Hat Circus Boy |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
What is your model number? With some of the older ones you need to replace one of the counterweights and some of the harness needs to be rerouted, it all comes as a kit with good instructions. Did you make sure the piece attached to the door is not broken? Last edited on Wed Jun 28th, 2006 03:56 am by AccApp |
inadancer
Grasshopper
| Joined: | Mon Jun 26th, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 4 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
model number is FWT449GFS1...the piece attached to the door (the prongs that go into the latch) is not broken...i replaced that last year and bought a spare one.....the counterweights you mentioned...is that a cement block? does it need to be removed before the actual door latch/switch/lock can be removed? Last edited on Wed Jun 28th, 2006 05:15 am by inadancer |
AccApp
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Sat Jun 3rd, 2006 |
| Location: | Eatontown, New Jersey USA |
| Posts: | 1740 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Magic Hat Circus Boy |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
The piece you need is 131888900 which comes with the new counterweight, door lock and harness. You will need to remove the old counterweight and replace it with the one in the kit. It can all be done from the front of the unit.
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology

| Joined: | Mon Mar 21st, 2005 |
| Location: | Otterville, USA |
| Posts: | 12943 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Kirin Ichiban |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Part link for door latch switch and counterweight kit: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=820920
|
sammo
Grasshopper
| Joined: | Tue Jul 18th, 2006 |
| Location: | New Hampshire USA |
| Posts: | 2 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
I'm chasing a similar problem with my Frigidaire (FWT449GFS1). Drains but won't spin. I started walking through the diagnostic, and got only to step 2: I removed the belt and pulled the knob. The motor runs. It says to check the timer line switch and door lock switch...all wires seem to be in place, and not rusted. Pushing on the door doesn't make it spin. Is there some way for me to tell which of these is the problem? Should I order a new door lock unit, or is there some test I can do on these parts to prove they're broken before I replace them?
Thanks in advance.
|
AccApp
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Sat Jun 3rd, 2006 |
| Location: | Eatontown, New Jersey USA |
| Posts: | 1740 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Magic Hat Circus Boy |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
If the motor runs without the belt, the door lock, timer and wiring harness can be eliminated as a source of trouble. Can you spin the drum by hand? Does the machine tumble under it's own power at any point in the cycle?
|
sammo
Grasshopper
| Joined: | Tue Jul 18th, 2006 |
| Location: | New Hampshire USA |
| Posts: | 2 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
The drum spun by hand. I reattached the belt and repeated the test, and the motor spun and turned the drum. That was at the beginning of the wash cycle. It doesn't do anything during the spin cycle. Does that point to the speed control board?
|
AccApp
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Sat Jun 3rd, 2006 |
| Location: | Eatontown, New Jersey USA |
| Posts: | 1740 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Magic Hat Circus Boy |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
sammo wrote: Does that point to the speed control board?
No, not really. You need to see if the timer is passing voltage to the board during the time when the drum should be spinning.
|
Tebbetts
Grasshopper
| Joined: | Mon Jul 31st, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 1 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Lock control unit part number 131888900. I replaced this the unit and followed all of the directions. Door lock works fine but now will not do final spin cycle. Any suggestions?
|
Ed F
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sat Dec 2nd, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 1 |
| Flavorite Brew: | carona |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
I'm glad I found this site, read about Frigidaire problems and was able to fix my washer myself, sent you a love offering for the beer fund, the photo helped also.
Thanks 
|
TommasoPrimo
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sat Oct 20th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 22 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Shiner Bock |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: Remove the front panel, take the suction hose off the pump and remove the coins and bobby pins from the pump impeller. Good to go.

Hello, I had this problem a couple weeks ago and found a bra underwire stuck in the motor. After following your sage advice, everything has been working fine since then.
Yesterday, it stopped pumping the water out again. I ran another load and it worked. This morning, it wasn't pumping again, so I took it apart in search of yet another underwire. This time there was nothing. I did notice, however, that in trying to spin the blades by hand, there was a lot of "startup" resistance. I put it all back together and its working fine again.
My question is whether the on again / off again nature of this problem, coupled with the difficult in hand spinning the blade is a good indication that the water pump in the nine year old machine needs to be replaced. What do you think? I certainly don't enjoy wrestling the red metal flangy things and getting stinky water all over my laundryroom floor. Should I bite the bullet and replace the pump, or does it need some kind of WD40 lubrication treatment? I took the plastic cover off that sits just above the motor and the motor itself is pretty rusty looking.
Muchas Gracias and Feliz Cerveza!
|
AccApp
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Sat Jun 3rd, 2006 |
| Location: | Eatontown, New Jersey USA |
| Posts: | 1740 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Magic Hat Circus Boy |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
You can inadvertantly damage any motor by trying to run it in a locked rotor state. I'd replace the pump.
|
BrntToast
Sublime Master of Appliantology

|
Re. door lock kits....
DONT waste the time and effort changing the weight, throw it away
ive done frigidaire service for 5 +years and have changed hundreds of those kits and never changed the weight, i have yet to see one latch assembly damaged by the old weight
|
TommasoPrimo
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sat Oct 20th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 22 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Shiner Bock |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
AccApp wrote: You can inadvertantly damage any motor by trying to run it in a locked rotor state. I'd replace the pump.
Okay, I bought the new pump (part number 131268401) but the connector locations for the green grounding wire and the "power harness" are on the left side of the pump instead of on the right like the old pump.
The photo shows the new pump on the right and the old pump on the left. Notice that with the new pump, I'm having to route the two sets of wires across the top of the pump and, therefore, cannot fix the plastic, protective water shield (I guess this is what it is) across the top of the pump. If I mount the pump with the power connectors facing right, then the discharge valve is on the wrong side.
What is the solution here? Does Frigidaire sell some kind of wire extenders that extend the length of the ground wire and the wiring harness to solve just this problem? If so, what are the part numbers? Or, is there some way to reverse the direction of the discharge valve?
As always, grazie mille e birra molta!!
Tommaso Primo
Attachment: IMG_0772_2.JPG (Downloaded 93 times)
|
applianceman18007260692
Sublime Master of Appliantology

| Joined: | Thu Nov 17th, 2005 |
| Location: | Mobile, Alabama USA |
| Posts: | 912 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Keystone Light |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
looks like a generic model. A common problem associated with tese washers is a generic sub pump. 1 size fitz all. and you have to figure out how to make it work. hok the wires up first then the hoses and try to make at least one screw hold the pump in place or leave it loose. It aint a space shuttle is it? wait with all these gadgets it might be! Attachment: fky gf.jpg (Downloaded 91 times)
|
TommasoPrimo
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sat Oct 20th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 22 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Shiner Bock |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Thanks, I figured it out. You have to disconnect the white plastic thingy that attaches to the hose and rotate the whole pump over. As you said, its designed to be a bit universal and I just had to monkey around with it until I figured it out.
Cheers,
Tommaso Primo
|
moonshouse
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Tue Feb 5th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 5 |
| Flavorite Brew: | coors lite |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
I HAVE A KENMORE 417-440925000 FRONT LOADING WASHER, IT WASHES FINE AND DRAINS BUT, ALAS, NO SPIN, I THINK IT IS TRYING TO ENTER THE SPIN CYCLE AND WILL GO ABOUT 2 SLOW ROTATAIONS EACH WAY THEN IT QUITS THE DISPLAY SIMULTANIOUSLY GOES BLANK AND THERE ARE 2 SETS OF BEEPS FOLLOWING, THE DISPLAY REMAINS BLANK AND THE MACHINE DOES NOTHING MORE. IN YOUR EARLIER POSTS IT SEEMS TO POINT TO THE SPIN CONTROL BOARD, BUT THERE IS NOT A LISTING FOR ONE ON MY MODEL
|
AccApp
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Sat Jun 3rd, 2006 |
| Location: | Eatontown, New Jersey USA |
| Posts: | 1740 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Magic Hat Circus Boy |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Please feel free to start a new topic.
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology

| Joined: | Mon Mar 21st, 2005 |
| Location: | Otterville, USA |
| Posts: | 12943 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Kirin Ichiban |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Outstanding suggesting, Sublime Master AccApp! 
|
jcannon
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Jul 6th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 6 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Heineken |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
I thought I was pretty flippin' smart, finding this topic on this website with exactly the solution to my problem.
Unfortunately, there were still parts I could screw up, and I have.
I got the hose off, flooded my garage (could have used a little more warning to be prepared for that, by the way), and could not find an obstruction in either the hose or the pump. I hooked it back up, and viola, it drained, then spun it's heart out and I rescued the load of laundry and put it in the dryer.
I had one towel to "catch" the water (HA!), and it was a mess, so I tossed it in and thought I'd find out how my newly fixed washer worked. I was busy cleaning up the mess, blow-drying the indoor-outdor carpet, etc., when I noticed to my dismay that I hadn't seen the washer spin yet. Sure enough, I looked and it was in the final spin cycle, but it was just flopping around, and hadn't drained.
I'm smart enough that I left the cover off of the machine, but I'm not that fired up about going back in without a little more idea of what I'm looking for.
Should I have taken off the boot instead? Will I have the same water issue if I do that?
This is a fridgidare Gallery circa 1999, model # FWT449GFS2
Thanks for getting me this far and please get me the rest of the way!
Last edited on Sun Jul 6th, 2008 09:31 am by jcannon |
jcannon
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Jul 6th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 6 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Heineken |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
I have an update, and not a good one.
I took off the boot, found a few things but nothing substantial
I thought if I repeated the process of taking off the hose and draining the tub, I could rinse and spin another load of clothes. It didn't work, no draining going on at all.
I think I have a bad pump. Any ideas?
|
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Sat Sep 24th, 2005 |
| Location: | Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA |
| Posts: | 9058 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Indian Head. Black & White |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
FWT449GFS2 Wiring Diagram
Tumble Action Washers with AC Drive Motor (5995369211) 
Last edited on Sun Jul 6th, 2008 06:57 pm by RegUS_PatOff |
jcannon
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Jul 6th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 6 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Heineken |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Thank you. I have a neighbor who speaks that language.
|
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Sat Sep 24th, 2005 |
| Location: | Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA |
| Posts: | 9058 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Indian Head. Black & White |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
jcannon wrote: Thank you. I have a neighbor who speaks that language. If he also speaks Heineken, you're all set...
|
jcannon
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Jul 6th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 6 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Heineken |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
RegUS_PatOff wrote: jcannon wrote: Thank you. I have a neighbor who speaks that language. If he also speaks Heineken, you're all set...
Luckily, he speaks "brownies," and my wife bakes mean ones.
|
jcannon
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Jul 6th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 6 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Heineken |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Well, with the help of my neighbor and his multimeter, we established that the pump is indeed carrying 120 volts.
The book says that it's the timer. Any thoughts from the experts?
|
grey shrek
Sublime Master of Appliantology

| Joined: | Sat Feb 23rd, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 385 |
| Flavorite Brew: | bud lite |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
If nothing is plugged , 120v to pump , and no pumping of water --- the impellar may have come off the motor shaft = a new pump.
|
jcannon
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Jul 6th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 6 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Heineken |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Thanks. I think it's time to get someone over here who knows what they're doing. Thanks to all for the education.
|
jckong
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Thu Oct 16th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 3 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Sapporo |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
My GE front loading washer has a similar problem: door lock light will come on but cycle won't start. Sometimes if I bang on the front of the washer (around the area above the door latch) that would trigger it to start, but lately that doesn't seem to work anymore. Does that mean the door latch assembly needs to be replaced?
Also, I found the latch assembly for this GE washer:
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=824420&PPStack=1
But it looks like the Frigidaire version is the same and cost almost 2/3 less:
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=774920&PPStack=1
Are these identical?
TIA
|
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Sat Sep 24th, 2005 |
| Location: | Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA |
| Posts: | 9058 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Indian Head. Black & White |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
It could be ...
Your model is made for GE by Frigidaire..
Do you have a model number ? (there are a few)
Many GE parts are 2 to 3 times the cost of the same part for other brands..
http://applianceguru.com/forum2/6042.html
GE® imagination at work
Last edited on Fri Oct 17th, 2008 05:30 am by RegUS_PatOff |
jckong
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Thu Oct 16th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 3 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Sapporo |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
The model number is WSXH208a1ww
Tanks!
|
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Sat Sep 24th, 2005 |
| Location: | Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA |
| Posts: | 9058 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Indian Head. Black & White |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
WSXH208a1ww
similar model
WSXH208h1ww
http://www.frigidaire.com/support/ResultsPage.asp?strModel=WSXH208H1WW
a similar service manual ...
Frigidaire Tumble Action Washers with AC Drive Motor (5995369211)
parts manual for the other model (WCXH21)
shown on page 5 of your user manualAttachment: Page from 134666900efen.png (Downloaded 32 times) Last edited on Fri Oct 17th, 2008 03:56 pm by RegUS_PatOff |
jckong
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Thu Oct 16th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 3 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Sapporo |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Wow, thanks RegUS_PatOff! The service manual is really helpful. I went ahead and ordered the frigidaire lock assembly. Hopefully this is all I need to fix my washer problem.
Thanks again!
|
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Sat Sep 24th, 2005 |
| Location: | Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA |
| Posts: | 9058 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Indian Head. Black & White |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned in original condition within 30 days for a refund (less shipping).
|
SonyBar
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Nov 9th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 4 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Sam Adams |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
I got the gunk out of the hose - plus $1.68, a nail, and the wire from an underwire bra (I wondered where and how I could have lost that... ). Put it all back together and it spun. Did a happy dance. Threw in another load and it wouldn't drain. I'm thinking something stuck in the pump? I got the pump cover off, but can't for the life of me figure out how to get the pump itself off. Help me?
Thanks!
|
SonyBar
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Nov 9th, 2008 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 4 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Sam Adams |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
I don't suppose you can tell me how to get the soap/bleach/fabric softener dispenser out so I can clean it?
Thanks!
Last edited on Mon Nov 10th, 2008 02:06 am by SonyBar |
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Sat Sep 24th, 2005 |
| Location: | Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA |
| Posts: | 9058 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Indian Head. Black & White |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
should start a New Topic ...
and post your model number ..
|