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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Fisher Paykel GWL10 Washer - recirculating valve

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Fisher Paykel GWL10 Washer - recirculating valve  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Nov 17th, 2010 06:01 pm
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lotsofrocks

 

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I've found lots of posts about these washers refusing to drain, but nothing much about refusing to do the gray-water wash thing.  Our machine just seems to want to fill and then more or less goes into what looks like a spray rinse and drain mode.  I'm not sure if it would do this forever but I'm not all that sure it would ever advance beyond the wash cycles once it's started doing this.  I've let it run quite a while and it hasn't seemed to advance.

I'm pretty sure, at this point, that the problem is that the recirculating valve won't do its thing.  Of course, I've still got the permanent press cycle and that can be used for most anything, but what fun is that?????  Besides... We did pay (lots) for that new valve...

I downloaded the service manuals and even read each and every one.  I printed out the diagnostics directions and punched buttons like I knew what I was doing.  I did them in just the temp down & power on mode and in the combined temp down & power on and spin speed slow & hold mode.  I even unplugged the machine, waited for ten minutes and did everything all over again. 

The lid switch and out of balance tests were easily done. The hot and cold water valve tests worked like a charm and I used the drain pump test to get rid of the water.
I never got any fault codes at all. 

Then there's this bit of advice relative to the recirculating valve:  "The valve can be tested in the DIAGOSTIC mode by pushing the Delicate button.  This will turn the valve on and off."  (Yep, it says "diagostic".)  When I did this, nothing happened.    I punched the Delicate button and dutifully waited for well over a minute.    Absolute silence.  I even went through the single and combined diagnostic mode settings (with at least 3 minutes in between in case the valve needed to reset), no water in the basket, water in the basket, and even repeated after unplugging for 10 minutes. 

Before I unplug the machine, disconnect water lines, turn the machine over, and start pulling off clamps and hoses, I thought I'd check in just to make sure I'm not missing something on that recirculating valve diagnostic.  I've watched the You Tube three-parter on how to get at that diverter valve under the machine.  Looks simple enough; especially since I don't have to contend with a wash tub full of water.

I'm a 60-something, officially gimpy, woman with zip appliance repair experience who decided to play fix-it-myself after paying way too much money for a "didn't do anything" diverter valve replacement service call on our Fisher Paykel GWL10 washer.  (Now I'm also cranky — but pretty determined.)

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 Posted: Wed Nov 17th, 2010 10:50 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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lotsofrocks wrote:
... decided to play fix-it-myself after paying way too much money for a "didn't do anything" diverter valve replacement service call on our Fisher Paykel GWL10 washer.  (Now I'm also cranky — but pretty determined.)



Are you saying the diverter valve was already replaced for this problem and that didn't fix it?



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 Posted: Wed Nov 17th, 2010 11:15 pm
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lotsofrocks

 

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Yep, that's what I'm saying. But, for various reasons, I'm not all that confident in any work done by the person. You should see his idea of repairing a Kitchen Aid dishwasher that had lost its attachment to the cabinet frame. Enough said?

I have come across comments about it being easy to get the valve installed incorrectly. Heck I could turn the machine over and find out he didn't really do anything at all.

I'd feel a lot better if I'd gotten some kind of a fault code to show up. I hope no one is about to tell me I'm about to learn to use a voltage meter. :shock: That could be good for some comic relief, though...

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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 10:56 am
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DADoESTX
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Turning on the diverter valve in Diagnostic mode by itself won't do anything.  Water won't recirculate unless the pump is also running.  After pressing Delicate to turn on the diverter, wait about 2 mins, then press Regular to turn on the pump.  Water should recirculate and NOT drain.

Press Delicate & Regular to turn the pump and diverter off.  Wait 3 mins or a bit more.  Press Regular to turn the pump on again, water should drain and NOT recirculate.

Regards to waiting 2 mins and 3 mins ... the diverter does not shift positions immediately upon activation or deactivation.  It's a wax motor that heats up and shifts slowly to recirculate position when turned on ... then cools and shifts slowly back when turned off.  There's no indicator light on the console for when it has fully shifted, you just have to turn it on or off and wait the requisite time before turning on the pump.

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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 02:54 pm
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lotsofrocks

 

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AHA! There actually are secret diagnostic teachings. I'm glad I asked. Just one example of why signing up for 99 years is such a sensible thing to do? ;)

Just to be sure that running pumps without water doesn't damage them, I'll make sure there's water in the tub so there will be something for them pump besides air.

I might still end up having to get at the bottom of the machine, but at least I'll know I truly have reason to do so.

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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 10:43 pm
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lotsofrocks

 

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Phooey! I did the combo delicate/regular button diagnostic and all I got was a draining tub. I'd say the recirculating valve definitely wins the 'most likely to be the problem' contest. So, I guess it's time to turn the whole thing over and see what things look like on the bottom of the machine.

At least I'm pretty sure that I really need to go there. Maybe I'll spot something so obvious that I'll be able to take care of it and be done. Besides... There's always something to be said for making your spouse think you've totally gone over the edge? Photo op? Anyone?

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