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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > How to tell if dryer motor is going bad?

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How to tell if dryer motor is going bad?  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sun Nov 14th, 2010 03:56 am
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NickG
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Whirlpool LGR7646EQ2.  A quick rundown:

Dryer stopped turining/froze.  I saw that felt bearing at front of drum was messed up.  Removed panel to see lots of loose change in the bearing area and was what tore it up.  Replaced felt bearing and all was fine.

Next night, dryer stopped.  It was very hot.  Drum froze/stopped again. Took it apart again.  Motor would turn backwards, but not forward.  But then after goofing with it, it freed up and turned both ways.

Without drum in place, I fired up dryer.  Motor kicked on and ran quietly like it should.  Hmmmm... but then I saw what looked like a clutch at the front of the motor start clicking loudly and moving fore and aft along the shaft.  But then  it stopped doing that and the motor ran quietly.  A while later. I heard it sllllowly start to make a noise... like it needed oil or something.  But then it went away.  It has been running now for 20 minutes quietly... like there is nothing wrong.

Could this be a maintainence issue?  Or for just under $100, should I stop thinking about it and replace the motor?

Thanks!

Last edited on Sun Nov 14th, 2010 03:59 am by NickG

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 Posted: Sun Nov 14th, 2010 06:13 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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NickG wrote: ...  Motor would turn backwards, but not forward.  
 
... replace the motor

click on picture



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 Posted: Sun Nov 14th, 2010 07:16 pm
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NickG
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Now I am seeing one of the plastic ribs of the rear cage over the motor is missing.  I wonder if it just broke off and jammed the motor up.  I'm going to look for it to see if it is doing something.

The motor ran fine last night for ober a 1/2 hour.  Still, I may just replace it since it is easy and taken apart.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 16th, 2010 07:36 pm
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NickG
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I gotta say how happy I am to order this part.

Locally, the motor alone is $124.00 plus tax.

I'm getting it shipped to my house with the rear drum seal guaranteed tomorrow for a total price of $134.00. Much cheaper than a new dryer and the videos are extremely helpful!

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 Posted: Tue Nov 16th, 2010 09:03 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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The centrifugal switch that you noticed going back and forth should not do that. Typically that's caused by one of the 2 springs that's keeps tension on the part is missing....maybe the tab broke or maybe the fin fell inside and knocked it off.

Either way your doing the right thing by replacing the motor



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 Posted: Tue Nov 16th, 2010 09:27 pm
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NickG
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See that? Thank you! The local guy had no clue what I was talking about. I only thought of going there to oget it fast. I won't make that same mistake again. Thanks again!

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 Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 12:58 am
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NickG
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Please answer one more question? How hot should this dryer get? I can not touch the dryer on the side by the burner. The top on the burner sude is touchable, but very very hot. I have had this whole thing apart and have cleaned and vacuumed the entire thing. Literally I have sunk the ducts in soapy hot water and cleaned and dried them thouroughly by hand. ALL LINT is removed from the dryer and the vent outside is blowing strong.

But it is still VERY hot. What to check? And how does this happen? Isn't there a fuse that blows to keep it from getting this hot?

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 Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 01:00 am
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NickG
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Ok, my wife just informed me that, a few weeks ago, it would stop on its own, then start up after a while. She said when it would stop, it was hot. Duh?

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 Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 01:03 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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soo... did you replace the Motor ?

Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.

Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.

NO plastic

NO PVC

NO screws

Foil Duct Tape is OK.

With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat,
the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F

 

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,

click on picture $ 2.99




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 Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 02:07 am
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NickG
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Yes, I replaced the motor, both front and rear felt drum bearings, and lint screen. The belt and burner asm were replaced a few years ago. All major parts of this dryer are less than three years old. All parts are moving quietly and smoothly.

The total vent is no longer than 7 feet. It is rigid vent from the outside duct elbowing downward into a flexible metal duct, then back to a rigid duct before elbowing into the dryer. All metal. Nothing is crimped. All sections connected by a large hose/duct clamp.  No tape.  The entire vent from dryer to outside vent is a straight line up the wall with the exception of the two 90 degree elbows at top and bottom. Also, I made sure the the whole venting path was clear. And I did check outside and it is blowing strong.

The only indication that something is not right is the heat. I will measure the duct temp.

Last edited on Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 02:10 am by NickG

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