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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Bosch SHU9915UC/U11 dishwasher |
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| Bosch SHU9915UC/U11 dishwasher | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 11th, 2010 12:16 am |
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1st Post |
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colobrit Grasshopper
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Here's the situation: As we just remodeled the kitchen and the dishwasher is a little farther from the sink than it used to be I thought that might be the problem, so I disconnected the drain hose from the point where it connects to the pipes under the sink (it does NOT go to the disposal - that's not up to code here) and ran it into a bucket during the cycle. There seems to be 3 cycles of emptying during a standard wash, and two of those resulted in water going into the bucket, but there was still water in the bottom of the dishwasher just not as much. OK, maybe it needs a high loop close to the dishwasher instead of right by the sink. So I did that. Still no joy, in fact over the last 3 weeks the water level seems to have risen slowly to the point that when it finishes its cycle (doesn't matter which cycle, I've tried them all) I'm left with dirty water in the bottom of the dishwasher, and there's enough water that it covers the removable square mesh grid and then some, almost all the way out to the sides of the dishwasher. I've tried manually emptying all the water out so there's nothing in there before starting a cycle to see what effect that has. No change. By the end of the cycle I have a tub 'o water again. Removing the impeller cover to check the impeller, it spins but also shows some resistance as I try to spin it at a certain point in its 360 rotation. Thanks in advance for thoughts, ideas and help.
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| Posted: Thu Nov 11th, 2010 07:39 am |
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2nd Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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under the impeller cover you will see a black rectangle strip of rubber. this part is a check valve. grab this strip with a pair of pliers and pull it out. reinstall the cover and test the dishwasher again. if it drains with more volume of water, replace the check valve. http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Pump-Component/935361 Last edited on Thu Nov 11th, 2010 07:43 am by denrayr ____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 11th, 2010 09:54 pm |
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3rd Post |
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colobrit Grasshopper
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denrayr wrote: under the impeller cover you will see a black rectangle strip of rubber. this part is a check valve. grab this strip with a pair of pliers and pull it out. reinstall the cover and test the dishwasher again. if it drains with more volume of water, replace the check valve.Thanks denrayr. Did exactly what you described above. No dice. Still the same volume of water left in the bottom of the dw. Any other thoughts?
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| Posted: Thu Nov 11th, 2010 10:20 pm |
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4th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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How strong is the discharge? if it seems strong i would replace the check valve anyway. its job is to prevent water that is up the drain line from draining back into the machine. If you verify the machine drains properly the dirty water must be leaking back in past the valve.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 11th, 2010 11:05 pm |
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5th Post |
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colobrit Grasshopper
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denrayr wrote: How strong is the discharge? if it seems strong i would replace the check valve anyway. its job is to prevent water that is up the drain line from draining back into the machine. If you verify the machine drains properly the dirty water must be leaking back in past the valve.The discharge is strong, and you make an excellent point. As I hold the check valve, the 'connecting piece' between the round valve section and the 'holds it in place block' section is very, very thin and flexible. It takes almost no effort to move the round valve section in either direction. Should it have more resistance/be harder to move?
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| Posted: Thu Nov 11th, 2010 11:37 pm |
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6th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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you want that piece to flex so it will open all the way. the problem is the rubber warps and doesnt seal properly.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Sun Nov 21st, 2010 06:49 pm |
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7th Post |
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colobrit Grasshopper
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Got the new check valve. Installed it. Manually emptied all residual water from the bottom of the dw before running a cycle. :-( End of cycle: bottom of dw contains a tub 'o water again. Here's my next theory - I'd appreciate any input / thoughts: Could it be the distance that the water has to go to actually hit the drain pipe? My theory is that there's such a head of water (i.e. pressure) being built up in the total discharge hose that it's pushing back past the check valve. Here's a picture to illustrate the set-up. The blue is the discharge hose that's part of the dishwasher; the red is an extender hose to carry the water over to the drain pipe under the sink: 
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| Posted: Sun Nov 21st, 2010 07:02 pm |
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8th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Is the extension hose made of rubber and possibly kinked or partially collapsed at some point? - where the blue hose connects to the red hose, how is it connected? whatever kind of coupling is used could be blocked, or the plastic hose could be crushed. Any way you could just separate those hoses and try dishwasher by draining into a 5 gallon pail to test it? You may just have to replace the drain pump as it is not uncommon for the impeller to begin slipping on the shaft
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Sun Nov 21st, 2010 08:25 pm |
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9th Post |
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colobrit Grasshopper
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The extension hose is flexible, clear, braided hose rated for the high temp of dw discharge. no kinks (very difficult to kink this stuff!! :-) ) The red to blue connection is a typical dw-rated pvc connection with an adjustable clamps on the extension hose side and a 'spring-clip type clamp on the dw hose side. To ensure that there was no potential for clamping the extension hose side too much (and thus crushing the braided hose and preventing flow) I press-fitted a short section of copper pipe into the first 2 inches of the braided hose. A further update: I ran the extension hose directly into a container positioned such that the hose exit point was the lowest point in the entire hose run. Doing this resulted in a successful dw run: all water emptied from the dw, nothing remaining in the bottom of the tub, everything sparkly clean! So, I can be pretty certain that everything in the dw is functioning correctly, right? If I work on that premise, then my theory about head of water / resultant pressure causing back-flow through the hose holds up, but I'm not sure how to alleviate it. The only thing that comes to mind would be if I could insert a check-valve in the red hose closer to the drain exit point (before it makes the final rise to go into the drain pipe) which would prevent any head of water pressure building up, but I don't know if such a device exists.
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| Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 01:43 am |
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10th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Maybe some obstruction where the drain hose connects to the resident drain line ?
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 04:29 am |
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11th Post |
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colobrit Grasshopper
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kdog wrote: Maybe some obstruction where the drain hose connects to the resident drain line ?good thought, but I checked that. All clear, all the way through.
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| Posted: Mon Nov 22nd, 2010 07:04 am |
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12th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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what happens if you eliminate the high loop on the blue hose. the high loop in the extension hose will be enough to prevent backflow. if this doesnt solve it then like already mentioned, a new pump may be in order.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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