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Kenmore 110.92272100  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 08:53 pm
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bdweller
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About one month ago, I replaced the water inlet valve.  Worked fine for a while.  Now, the machine is filling, but will not drain.  The rinse/spin cycles will not activate.  I've got a tub full of water.

Any ideas on:

- how to drain it?

- what could be wrong?

This thing is 17 years old and I'm wondering when to give up on it.

thanks, BDWeller



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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 10:29 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Does it Agitate ?

Does it Spin ?

I can't find a wiring diagram for that model,

unless you have one you can scan & upload somewhere

 

 



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 Posted: Sun Nov 7th, 2010 07:50 am
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kdog
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Check your lid switch



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 Posted: Sun Nov 7th, 2010 10:35 am
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bdweller
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It does agitate, but doesn't spin.  Seems like the spin cycle is where it stops working.  (And, I should probably know this, but does it drain before spinning, or is the spinning what causes the draining, with centrifugal force?)  If it drains before spinning, perhaps it's clogged somewhere.

I'm looking for a wiring diagram

If it's the switch, can I check it with the water in it?  If not, do I have to remove the water with a small bucket, or is there a simpler way?

Thanks, BDWeller

Last edited on Sun Nov 7th, 2010 10:38 am by bdweller



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 Posted: Sun Nov 7th, 2010 06:20 pm
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LtSiver
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Before you even tear down the washer, does the thing click when you stick a pencil down the hole the switch is in? If so, here's how to get access to it so you can test it with a volt-ohm meter.

Assuming you have the room to remove the cabinet, you should be able to test the lid switch with it full of water. First, make sure you unplug the washer. Then follow the instructions in this GIF to remove the cabinet: http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/Zenzoidman/Washers/wpdcabinet.gif
as you're pulling the cabinet away from the back of the washer, watch for the wiring going to the switch, so you can prevent damaging it. If your model has hoses going to the front of it for soap/bleach/fabric softener fills, you'll need to carefully remove the hose clamps going to them before you can fully remove the cabinet. once the switch and hoses are undone, you can remove the cabinet the rest of the way, and get at the switch with your volt-ohm meter. set it to ohms or continuity test (if your model has one) and trigger the switch. while it is triggered, it should be 0 ohms, or CLOSED if you're using continuity test mode. If not, that's the problem. If it is, then the problem is more complicated.

By the way, assuming you have a floor drain nearby, once the cabinet is removed, you can drain it by undoing the hoses on the pump. If you don't have a floor drain, then a shop vac is your best tool for the job.

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 Posted: Sun Nov 7th, 2010 06:22 pm
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LtSiver
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Oh, and to answer your question, many kenmores will not drain if the lid switch has failed.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 8th, 2010 12:07 pm
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bdweller
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my switch has two black wires and one green.  I'm getting a reading of "1" when I test across any combination of them (black and green, black and black).

I assume that this means its the switch, and I'll be getting one today.

Thanks for all the help, BDWeller



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