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Mayag Performa PYET444AYW died  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Nov 5th, 2010 04:25 pm
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dcphoto
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My Maytag Performa PYET444AYW has gone round the bend. :shock:

My wife tried to dry a heavy bath mat that was totally saturated with water. The dryer had other feelings. The timer dial makes some noise, but the dryer doesn't do anything else. No response when trying to start it.

So far I've confirmed power at the outlet, and the block on the dryer.

I know I need to check the thermal fuse, and thermostat, but I don't know where they are located. What do I need to remove to get to the fuse and thermostat?

How to I check the thermostat with a multimeter? Am I looking for continuity, or a particular resistance?

What else do I need to check if the fuse and thermostat prove to be in good condition?

Humbly,
dcphoto

Edit: I figured out how to get to everything. Thermal fuse is blown. Now I just have to figure out how to to everything out.

Last edited on Fri Nov 5th, 2010 05:29 pm by dcphoto

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 Posted: Fri Nov 5th, 2010 08:04 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Use the instructions on this page for the Admiral, Norge, etc., dryers==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2003/11/16/appliance-tip-of-the-day-dryer-disassembly/

Replace the thermal fuse and thermostat as a set==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Fuse-and-High-Limit-Thermostat/3344?modelNumber=PYET444AYW



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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 11:54 pm
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dcphoto
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Got the dryer working again, but I want to check with the experts to make sure everything is normal. On a side note, I never knew so much lint and pet hair could build up in a dryer. The scroll past the lint trap was almost completely blocked. I had to remove the drum to completely clean the machine. It filled my 6 gallon shop vac twice. Guess I'll have to clean it a little more often. In retrospect, I guess this could have been a contributing factor in the failure.

Turned out the thermostat (not fuse) was what failed. The fuse (on top of heating element?) tested ok. Had continuity, with .4 ohms. I replaced both the thermostat and fuse, just in case.

Will a failed open thermostat cause a complete shutdown of the machine?

Tested with the door open. Heating element turns on, glows red hot for a few seconds, then with a click (thermostat?) turns off. After about a minute it repeats, but doesn't stay on for as long. I also noticed scorch marks on the heat inlet. I never noticed before, but it's made me question whether the on/off cycling is normal.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 8th, 2010 03:15 am
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john63

 

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Extreme lint accumulation in any dryer is an indication of *poor venting*.

If the dryer takes longer an hour to dry laundry---it's time to inspect / clean the dryer venting in the home---from the back of the dryer completely thru to the outside vent hood.

A failed THERMAL FUSE will shutdown most dryers (some have more than one).



 


<<<<The fuse (on top of heating element?) tested ok.>>>>
 
The High Limit Thermostat is located at the top of the heating element. This is a "back-up" for the Operating Thermostat located on the Blower Housing. Both of these thermostats are self-resetting.
 
The THERMAL FUSE is located on the side of the Heater Box. These are *one-time- blow* type devices and not resettable. 


Last edited on Mon Nov 8th, 2010 03:43 am by john63

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 Posted: Mon Nov 8th, 2010 04:42 am
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dcphoto
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The directions that came with the thermostat/fuse kit must have had the fuse and thermostat backwards. Either that or my memory is backwards. The latter is quite likely.

There is practically no dryer venting. The dryer is located at an outside wall, has about 1 inch of tubing between it and the vent, which was clean. We just moved in to this house, and I replaced the tube when I hooked up the dryer. I think the build up was from the apartment we lived in, which probably had 50+ feet of tube.

Aside from the build up, is there anything else that could cause the fuse to blow?

If it matters, I had to replace the heating element during this repair. I dropped my nut driver on the coil, which must have been very brittle to break so easily.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 8th, 2010 05:10 am
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john63

 

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<<<<I think the build up was from the apartment we lived in, which probably had 50+ feet of tube.>>>>
 
*******
 
This would cause short-cycling of the heating element.
 
Eventually the thermostats will be very worn (pitted contacts) and then become "stuck or welded together" in the closed position. This in turn causes a failed THERMAL LIMITER.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 8th, 2010 06:26 am
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dcphoto
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Is the operating thermostat the same part as the high limit thermostat? I don't see any other kind of thermostat listed for this dryer.

Could you point me to the correct part. I'd like to replace it, since cleaning hasn't resolved the short cycling.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 8th, 2010 10:20 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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dcphoto wrote: Is the operating thermostat the same part as the high limit thermostat? 

...  cleaning hasn't resolved the short cycling.

# 4 is the Hi-Limit Thermostat

# 5 is the Thermal Fuse

the 4-wire Operating Thermostat is on the Blower Motor Housing

The Dryer Cabinet needs to be assembled for correct temperature/air-flow 




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