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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag LSG7800AAW stack unit (Ok to eliminate 'Run Relay'?)

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Maytag LSG7800AAW stack unit (Ok to eliminate 'Run Relay'?)  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Nov 2nd, 2010 02:09 pm
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Need some feedback and advice about removing the run relay from this unit.

Maytag Stack Washer/Dryer (Gas)
Mod# LSG7800AAW
Ser# A5333530HB

Don't have a copy of the wiring diagram, (one is with the machine but had no way to take a picture of it).   Couldn't find one online, maybe RegUS will post one here for us to look at?

This is for the washer, the run relay was chattering really bad and would only sometimes start the washer then only run for a few minutes before dieing and starting to chatter the relay again.

The relay was replaced about a year or two ago by me and it has gone bad again.  Everything else is OK, motor amp draw in spin and agitate OK.

The relay has a 120 volt coil that closes a normally open switch, you can take the two wires off the relay, (Com and NO), and connect them together, (bypassing the relay completely), and the machine still works completely OK.  The out of balance system and lid lock system both still work and the motor doesn't ever try to start on only run or start windings.

Can anyone tell me what could be any possible problems that could arise from just eliminating the run relay from the system?






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William Burk (Willie)
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Eureka, CA 95501
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 Posted: Tue Nov 2nd, 2010 05:13 pm
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I can't find the wiring diagram, yet, but is it this relay ?

If it's chattering, have you checked the voltage at the Coil ?




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 Posted: Wed Nov 3rd, 2010 11:44 am
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No, that is not the "RUN" relay.   The one you have pictured is the "Out of Balance" relay and is just below the run relay. 

I opened the relay to see why it was chatter and acting weird, working one second then going into chattering and motor barely turning.

I believe the new run relay that was installed a year or two ago was somewhat defective from the start from the looks of the failure that occurred.  The contact point on the movable arm had actually separated from the springy arm and then reattached itself, (welded back to arm with just a tiny spot at the edge).  There was a 1/32" or less actual gap between the spring arm and most of the contact point.

This small gap between the contact point and arm that the contact point should have been welded to with no gap between, made it so that when the magnetic coil pulled the points closed the movable arm wasn't able to touch the top of the magnetic coil so it just springs back open instead of staying solidly closed making a very bad and loud chattering noise.




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Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
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