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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Elect. Oven Won'tTurn on - Kitchenaid kesh307hbl3

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Elect. Oven Won'tTurn on - Kitchenaid kesh307hbl3  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 08:22 pm
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rerooks
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I am trying to figure why my electric oven won't heat.  I can set it to bake, broil, etc, and the elements don't turn on. 

Summary of what I have done:

1. Removed broiler element, tested resistance over both coils (its a double element) and I get around 40 ohms, so that tests fine.

2. Removed temperature sensor, test about 1088 ohms, so that is fine.

3. Turned on oven (heard relay click), tested electrical connections to broiler element (which I have removed for testing).  I tested it as recommended by touching one lead of multimeter to unpainted surface (so, my ground).  Across 3 of the 4 connections, I get around 13 V to ground.  Across 1 of the 4 connections I get 120 V to ground.

Could it be the computer?  What else would you recommend I test?  Any thoughts on what could be wrong?

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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 09:00 pm
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rerooks
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Just as a followup, the service tech manual is Part # 9753027, which you can find at

http://www.scribd.com/doc/27404262/Tech-Sheet-9753027

Above, I did make a mistake.  I have 2/4 at 120V, not 1/4.

From what I test, the two at 120 V are P6 and P7, which are blue and violet, which represent one phase of the power.  The other phase, which are the other two connectors, register the lower voltage.  Both are the same wire and are an off orange.

These off orange connectors, are (of course) at the other side of the outer and inner broiler resisters on the diagram.  I am trying to figure out how they ultimately connect to the other hot, but it looks like I will have to take the oven apart to follow the wire around the side panel.

I did test the power coming into the oven, and both hots are at 120 V, and are at 240 between them, so that is correct.

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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 10:06 pm
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check the Oven DLB Relay

click on picture


 



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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 03:36 am
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rerooks
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Thanks.

I actually did get around to testing that, and it was working. Believe it or not, the power cable running to the relay was bad. Someone repaired it before with a splice and after testing it (the splice looked professional, shrink wrapped), I determined that it had a break somewhere in it....so I ran a new 12 gauge wire to the relay.

I replaced it, so I am good to go....except.....

I found out that the lower (hidden) bake element is fried. A 2 inch section has disintegrated. I have to replace that.

On top of that, when doing some tests to determine why the right front burner's outer ring is the only one to light, I think I may have shorted something out. Now only the inner broiler ring has 120 V, the outer one (purple wire) has no voltage. Do you think I could have messed up the computer? Another symptom is that the control panel indicator light for the right front burner is always lit.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 04:04 am
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sounds like a bad Burner Control

(or more burned wires)



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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 04:11 am
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rerooks
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The burner control...would that be part of the computer?  Would that require a computer replacement?  A bad burner control wouldn't fry a heating element, would it?

I just ordered the new lower burner through the link you have at the top.  It says that I will get it in two days...pretty good.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 10:28 am
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rerooks wrote: .. A bad burner control wouldn't fry a heating element, would it?

Top Burners not controlled by Computer..

A shorted Heating Element could fry the Burner Control

(and/or wires)



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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 11:46 am
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rerooks wrote:  Someone repaired it before with a splice and after testing it (the splice looked professional, shrink wrapped), I determined that it had a break somewhere in it....so I ran a new 12 gauge wire to the relay.

Are you sure what looked like a repair was actually a repair??

Some of these ovens have a fuse in the main wire harness, covered with heat shrink tubing, the shorted element could very well have blown said fuse.

I did some research before finishing this post, and found a part not shown on the diagram that was in the parts list, that is a fuse in that wire harness at the place where you see the heat shrink.

It was listed as: 9781656 Harness, Wire (L2 Electric)
One of my parts places had in its additional info on the part:
Includes In Line Fuse For Bake-broil

And you can see the fuse in the picture of the part at RepairClinic
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Wire-Receptacle-or-Wire-Connector/748914




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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 02:19 pm
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rerooks
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I was wondering if it was a fuse, but then I thought...why would they entirely enclose it? ...there is no way I can replace the fuse if they did that.

Is there a way I can put an in-line fuse? I would hate to spend over $50 for that.

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 Posted: Wed Nov 3rd, 2010 02:07 pm
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rerooks
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The oven is working again. You were right, there was a 20A 270V inline fuse. I went to Radio Shack and purchased an inline fuse holder and a package of 4 ceramic fuses for about $6 and spliced it in.

I put the lower burner from Repair Clinic in and things are working! Even both broiler coils are working.

Thanks for the help.

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