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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore oasis washer 11027082 |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! |
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| Kenmore oasis washer 11027082 | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 01:29 am |
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1st Post |
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bubbajo Grasshopper
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I have a 4 year old Kenmore elite oasis top load washer 11027082. It starts to fill then the lid locks and it stops filling after about 10 seconds and will sit idle for a while then shut off. There is no error message. I've been googling and reading and have discovered this washer is problem prone. One blog I read said to check the sensor tube to make sure it is clear and dry. When I blow into it I can hear water gurggle in the bottom of the washer. Where do I go from here. I can't afford the $130 Sears wants to come look at it. Bubbajo
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| Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 02:51 am |
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2nd Post |
Tronicsmasta
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sounds like maybe you have an issue with your cold water valve... check for error codes in the diagnostic mode. push and hold spin speed for 4 seconds, release it for 4 seconds, push again for 4 seconds, release for 4 seconds, and push for a final 4 seconds. if done right, all lights should light up and show 88 on the display. after a few seconds, it will flash an error code if there is one. it will store up to 4 errors. you can see the next one by pressing spin speed again. after the 4th one is on the screen, if you press spin speed one more time, it will go into automatic test mode. see if there are any error codes and report back here  i will be glad to assist you.
____________________ It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com). |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 02:56 am |
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3rd Post |
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bubbajo Grasshopper
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Thank you. I'll run the test in the morning and let you know the outcome.
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| Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 03:50 am |
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4th Post |
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matt1 Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Broken pump(open/short) usually will give you that problem,loose wire at connection at the pump will cause it also;you might not be able to run a diagnostic test as Tronicsmasta mention.
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| Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 04:18 am |
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5th Post |
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bubbajo Grasshopper
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Thanks for the heads up.
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| Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 05:08 am |
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6th Post |
Tronicsmasta
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matt1 wrote:Broken pump(open/short) usually will give you that problem,loose wire at connection i know it wouldn't be an open as i have had the pump broken wire issue... it operates normal except when needing to drain...
____________________ It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com). |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 05:12 pm |
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7th Post |
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bubbajo Grasshopper
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OK, I did the automatic dianostic test. It did the CO, then the C1 started and ran for about 30 seconds then it stopped and flashed F51. I got 3- F51 codes and one F84. I tried to run the test again and after I got the 88 and pushed the button again, I got the F51 code. I then tried to run in the manual mode and all I would get is the F51 with no other action. The model is 110.27082604 SR# is CU0670321 Type 580
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| Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 04:09 am |
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8th Post |
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matt1 Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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If you would look up f 51 on the tech sheet, they wants you do all those test and suggest to replace RSP sensor. There is only one times I replaced it due to water get on it and the thing was fried. Replaced main control board will fix your f 51 error code. Part # 10189966. By all mean do the test that was mention all the tech sheet first. This is a very common problem with OASIS for the first 5 years when they just came out, and the control boards were up grade many times.
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| Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 04:39 am |
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9th Post |
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bubbajo Grasshopper
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Thanks. Another thing that concerned me was what I read about checking the sensor tube to be sure it was not crimped or wet inside. When I blow into it I hear water gruggle in the bottom of the washer. Is this normal or another problem??
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| Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 04:50 am |
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10th Post |
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BrntToast Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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i am not familiar with this washer, but one thing i do know is that once you disconnect the tube from the switch and blow into it you have now relieved the pressure to the switch, you cannot just reconnect the hose and begin retesting you will now have to remove all the water from the tub, disconnect and reconnect the hose and start over, cause right now you have a full tub, but because the hose was disconnected and reconnected the switch thinks the tub is empty
____________________ The only stupid question is the one not asked hope i've been helpfull, if you wish to buy Brnt beer kick here http://brnttoast.googlepages.com/home feel free to prvt msg frigidaire questions my way (i dont log in every day) |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 05:24 am |
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11th Post |
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bubbajo Grasshopper
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Yikes.... Actually there is no visble water in the tub. After I did the auto diagnostic, got the F51 code and it shut down I hit the start button and the water in the tub drained, then it shut down again.
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| Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 01:37 am |
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12th Post |
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bubbajo Grasshopper
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Don't leave me hanging!!!!
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| Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 03:26 am |
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13th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Put the unit into a manual funtion mode and run the drain pump test, sounds like the machine has not fully drained. When running diagnostics it is important not to advance it into wash mode until it has filled with enough water to float the inner basket - doing so will immediately trigger a 51 code as you described
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 04:12 am |
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14th Post |
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bubbajo Grasshopper
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Thanks. When I ran the auto test it shut down before it floated the tub. I tried to run the manual test but all it would do is give me a blinking 51 code. I could not get it to do anything beyond that, other than shut down.
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| Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 04:58 am |
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15th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Souns like you may have an issue with the rps sensor -
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 05:17 am |
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16th Post |
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bubbajo Grasshopper
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Can an appliance dummy check the sensor?
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| Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 05:51 pm |
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17th Post |
mark mac
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Make sure the basket spins freely by hand first if so replace rps sensor
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| Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 09:10 pm |
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18th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Part link for the RPS kit, if needed==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Sensor-or-Thermistor/1394136
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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