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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > No 110v at icemaker Kitchenaid KSRG25FKWH05

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No 110v at icemaker Kitchenaid KSRG25FKWH05  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 12:11 am
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mcfarmall
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Hi,

Long time reader, first time poster.  My icemaker quit working and I only have around 30v AC at the L-N test points on the module.  The fill solenoid coil reads 238 ohms.  Where do I go now, O Great Samurai?

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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 12:22 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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volatge between:

1) N to L

2) N to T

3) N to H




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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 12:25 am
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appl.tech.29501
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see if you have 120V at the black and white at the harness coming into the ice maker, if so the module is bad.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 12:27 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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In addition to the excellent advice given above, be sure to check out the troubleshooting flowchart for this icemaker==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/10/24/troubleshooting-flowchart-for-the-whirlpool-built-modular-icemaker/



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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 01:31 am
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mcfarmall
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The voltage between the black and the white wire on the harness that protrudes from the refrigerator is/was 29vAC.  I measured this when I first removed the icemaker from the fridge this evening.  The fridge was still plugged in when I took the icemaker out and I didn't remove power until I went to check the continuity of the water valve coil.

A few times this evening while messing with this, I noticed the red indicator light at the ON/OFF switch at the left side of the freezer was blinking.  Just before getting on line I opened the freezer and found the icemaker mold filled with water.

Maybe the fridge just needed to be powered down for a while then re-started...many times this works with PLC controlled machinery, maybe it works for refrigerators too!

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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 01:58 am
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appl.tech.29501
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Optics LED should "flash twice, pause...repeat" if you hold the flapper on the left closed the LED should be steady on. Ice maker wont get power if optics are bad, or they could have been stuck like you said...I have seen that happen a few times. If it continues to cause problems you can remove the right side board and jump the black and blk/white wires and the optics will be bypassed. If it then works without fail you know the optics are at fault.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 12:03 pm
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mcfarmall
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Thanks for the continuing dialogue!  Last night while I was sleeping it made only one batch of ice and when I checked it this morning, the eject fingers were submerged in the mold and frozen in the next batch.

The flapper door on the left is now held down with tape as I compromised the hinge while removing the icemaker yesterday.  The blinking light is also puzzling, one time when I opened the freezer it was blinking and the next time it wasn't (flapper door secured with tape both times).  Is it possible to bench test the icemaker by supplying 110v to the harness outside the freezer?  There is a component on the black wire that is held to the mold with a clip that I assumed was a fusible link in case the heating element would run away it would kill the power.  Or is it a t-stat that will only allow the icemaker to function if it is below a certain temperature?

Getting back to the voltage on the freezer harness, I would think that I should have voltage present between the B & W wires anytime the fridge is plugged into the wall.  I only measured around 29v yesterday.  Is that leakage current through a transistor or solid state relay somewhere in the fridge controller?

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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 06:18 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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The power for the ice maker is fed through the optic board on the right side. the red LED will not flash appropriately if the ice maker is "in cycle".

Clipped to the side of the mold is a "fuse" which is for runaway heater temp. Your fuse is fine. You either have a bad module or a bad optics board.

that being said your ice maker is activated by you freezer temp. as well. Freezer has to be at least 15F.

If you un-mount the right side optics board and check for voltage across the black and blk/white wires you should have 120V with the ice maker switch turned on. As I said previously if you jump those 2 wires it will by pass the optics.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 09:44 pm
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Some help troubleshooting the optics system here==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/06/29/troubleshooting-icemakers-with-the-fancy-optical-controls/



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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 12:16 pm
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mcfarmall
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Sorry its been a while but I haven't had a chance to fiddle with the icemaker for a few days.

As I stated before I have about 34V on the black and white wires on the icemaker harness plug with the optical controller in the ON position and nothing blocking the beam...like my arm.

I removed the circuit board on the right side and jumpered the black and the black/white wires and then I had 120v on the icemaker harness plug:).

So for the fun of it, I reinstalled the icemaker assembly, plugged it in and the reject shaft started to turn.  A few minutes later I checked it and the tray had filled with water, but the fingers of the reject shaft were submerged in the water:(.

I let it be for several hours and nothing had changed except the water had frozen in the tray with the reject shaft fingers now encased with ice.  Next I removed the assembly to try and run a harvest cycle and I noticed the white timer wheel sitting in a kittywhampus angle.  A close inspection revealed that one of the 2 prongs on the plastic shaft was missing and the hub of the white timer wheel gear was broken...perhaps an overtorque condition due to the fingers being frozen in an iceberg?  Normally, when the icemaker was working properly the fingers were pointing at the freezer door in the "ready" position above the stripper bar.

This leads me to believe that I may have 2 problems.  The first is a bad optical control board that is not allowing voltage to reach the module, and second I have a bad module-broken parts.

Do you concur?

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 Posted: Mon Nov 8th, 2010 01:31 am
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denrayr
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Check the drive gear on the icemaker module. You should see two clips holding it in place. Its very common for one of the clips to break and cause your exact symptoms.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 8th, 2010 01:39 am
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denrayr
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Oh man. I didn't read your last post before I made mine. I'm sure your only problem is the ice maker module. The optics board has to be happy before it will supply power to the icemaker. I haven't found a reliable way to test other than jumpering around it and verifying the icemaker is good or bad. In this case you found the problem is with the icemaker. The reason the icemaker stalled in the down position is because there is a circuit built into the back of the gear. As the gear lifts off the module, power is broken and it stalls out.



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 01:03 am
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mcfarmall
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Thanks for the confirmation, denrayr!  I'll get one one and give it a try!!

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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 11:19 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Replacment control module for your icemaker==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Control-Module/1469018?modelNumber=KSRG25FKWH05



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