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3-in-1 for Amana ABD2533DES Fridge?  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 06:20 pm
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Kendall
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kdog wrote: You simply splice the run cap to the leads which go to the run and start windings, not the common
Of course.  Wiring one side to the common would almost be a short circuit.  The juice would bypass the compressor altogether, wouldn't it.

Now how about this...

Could the run capacitor actually diminish some of the boost from the start cap, i.e. is it possible that it could actually hamper the starting ability?

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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 06:33 pm
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kdog
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No - your compressor was not designed to use a start capacitor, you have added that with the 3 in 1, the compressor will work as it is, with or without the run cap



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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 10:19 pm
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Kendall
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As it stands, it's been running well and I'm too superstitious to jinx it with the run capacitor (knocked on wood again.)  So when I get home this evening... if it still appears to be running... I'm going to cram the fridge back into the cabinet.  (Yes... I said cabinet.  It would probably run more efficiently if it weren't closed.  But with a clean heat exchanger, the air coming out of the cabinet does not seem warm at all... nor does the heat exchanger for that matter.  There's about 3" of space at the top and will definitely not be pushing it all the way back against the wall!)

Around 11:15 AM today I tested the amperage coming into the 3-n-1 with my old trusty dusty analog clamp-on.

1.  Pulled the plug and then plugged in immediately to see what it would do when it wouldn't turn.  It hovered at around 10A before it shut down.

2.  Then I pulled the plug again and gave it 5 minutes and replugged.  About 12A for maybe 1 second then down to about 1.5A.  Is that all these pumps are supposed to pull?  Or is my old analog faulty?  I did zero it out with the little screw first.


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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 11:09 pm
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1.5  @ is in the neighborhood,  if you added the run cap , it  current draw would be even less.....................

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 Posted: Fri Oct 29th, 2010 11:22 pm
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Kendall
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Soooo....... thennnn..... why am I not adding the run cap???

I was wondering about this.  Prior posts seemed kind of cryptic to this DIY/modestly techie dude.  No need to feed the power company any more cash when it will take me about 10 minutes to add those connectors and cap.

But... as I said... kind of superstitious.  Do you foresee any loss in the ability of the 3-n-1 to start that motor if I parallel in the run cap?

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 Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 04:52 pm
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Kendall
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37 hours and still running.  Lot's of ice in the ice tray (another wood knock.)

Too busy to decide on the run cap and push it back in the wall last night; had to carve pumpkins for my little girls.  Have to work this morning, but plan to tackle the project this afternoon.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 5th, 2010 04:10 am
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Kendall
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Update:

A whisker more than 7 days now and running (wood knocked.)

(I recognize that the real test will be if it can go months or even years with the 3-n-1.  Just thought I'd give you an update.)

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 Posted: Wed Jan 5th, 2011 07:38 pm
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Kendall
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Over 2 months now.  Was working when I left the house this morning (knuckles sore from wood knocking.)

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 Posted: Sat Jan 15th, 2011 04:18 pm
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Kendall
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In the last few days, the 3 n' 1 is no longer always able to start the compressor on the first try.  Several times a day it makes the buzzing noise, clicks off, then tries again until it starts.  When this occurs, it generally starts on the 2nd or 3rd try.

Bummer.  Wood knocked... but hope dwindling.

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