kdog wrote: You simply splice the run cap to the leads which go to the run and start windings, not the common
Of course. Wiring one side to the common would almost be a short circuit. The juice would bypass the compressor altogether, wouldn't it.
Now how about this...
Could the run capacitor actually diminish some of the boost from the start cap, i.e. is it possible that it could actually hamper the starting ability?
As it stands, it's been running well and I'm too superstitious to jinx it with the run capacitor (knocked on wood again.) So when I get home this evening... if it still appears to be running... I'm going to cram the fridge back into the cabinet. (Yes... I said cabinet. It would probably run more efficiently if it weren't closed. But with a clean heat exchanger, the air coming out of the cabinet does not seem warm at all... nor does the heat exchanger for that matter. There's about 3" of space at the top and will definitely not be pushing it all the way back against the wall!)
Around 11:15 AM today I tested the amperage coming into the 3-n-1 with my old trusty dusty analog clamp-on.
1. Pulled the plug and then plugged in immediately to see what it would do when it wouldn't turn. It hovered at around 10A before it shut down.
2. Then I pulled the plug again and gave it 5 minutes and replugged. About 12A for maybe 1 second then down to about 1.5A. Is that all these pumps are supposed to pull? Or is my old analog faulty? I did zero it out with the little screw first.
Soooo....... thennnn..... why am I not adding the run cap???
I was wondering about this. Prior posts seemed kind of cryptic to this DIY/modestly techie dude. No need to feed the power company any more cash when it will take me about 10 minutes to add those connectors and cap.
But... as I said... kind of superstitious. Do you foresee any loss in the ability of the 3-n-1 to start that motor if I parallel in the run cap?
In the last few days, the 3 n' 1 is no longer always able to start the compressor on the first try. Several times a day it makes the buzzing noise, clicks off, then tries again until it starts. When this occurs, it generally starts on the 2nd or 3rd try.