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GE - JKP14WP2WG  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 09:44 pm
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thomasvanderhoof
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I ordered two new elements and installed them, but they do not heat. I checked for continuity in the heating elements and they have a reading of .017 and .030 for the two elements which seems OK. When the oven is on, the elements are receiving a 120V on each side of both the heating elements, so it seems to be getting power, but not heating at all. The oven's control panel has power and the oven light works. There's no error messages. Does anyone have any ideas as to what's wrong?

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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 11:16 pm
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can't measure from each side to ground ...

must check voltage across each Element ..

if they're not working, you'll see 0v

why were they replaced ?

have you checked and reset your House Circuit Breakers for the Oven ?

Have you checked for 240 at the Oven main power connections ?


 



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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 12:35 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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thomasvanderhoof wrote:
When the oven is on, the elements are receiving a 120V on each side of both the heating elements, so it seems to be getting power,


This test is only diagnostically useful if one of the power leads to the heating element is removed (and secured). Then you can tell which side of the circuit isn't coughing up its 120vac (which produces the 240vac across the element terminals when power wires are connected).

If the element itself is open, you may still read 240vac across the terminals (if the power supply is working right) but there will be no current flow (and no heat). Should do a continuity test on the element when you do remove the lead for the voltage check.



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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 02:01 am
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thomasvanderhoof
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The oven's control panel has power with no error messages. The oven light turns on. The Broil element was already burnt out, and the bake burnt out recently, so I replaced both elements. They were working. The voltage never has been modified for this model oven. I did test for continuity and it passed with little resistance. When I turn the oven on, I use the multimeter to measure the voltage going to the elements by touching one end to the ground and the other to the wire connection going to the element. it reads 120VAC. I checked the voltage coming straight from the wall and it's 120VAC. The bake and broil has worked off of that before, though. On the oven inside, it reads 120/240V which leads me to believe that either would work. I'm guessing that you are suggesting it should be 240V going to the elements which is why they are not heating. Are there 120V elements because our oven worked fine before they blew out? We moved in to the house, so we don't know if the elements we are replacing were original or not.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 02:14 am
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thomasvanderhoof
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Thanks, I'll give that a try. If one of the sides are not putting out 120V then the there's something wrong with the control panel. I thought that one side had to be leading to a ground in order to work properly, but you saying both sides should be receiving 120V, right?

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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 03:36 am
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With one of the power leads to the element disconnected, you should measure 120 V from each element power lead to ground or chassis. Whichever side is not giving you 120 V between that power wire and ground is the problem circuit. As far as what's in those circuits, you will have to consult the schematic or wiring diagram for that.



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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 03:45 am
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All Oven Elements are 240v

One side of the Element is connected to the L1 (Hot)
and the other side gets connected to L2 (Hot)

No ground is used on the Elements.

If you disconnect the Element, you can then measure L1 to ground, and L2 to ground to see which one you're missing.

Could be a half-tripped House Circuit Breaker.

 

 

 



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