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Maytag DW model MDBH955AWB  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 02:30 am
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daydreamer152
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Well, well been a while but inoperative modern conveniences have brought me back.....to school....please teach me....

Maytag dishwasher MDBH955AWB SERIAL 37044295LX about 3 years old seems far too early for a failure;)...one of the recalled models...recall modification has been done.

This problem started before the tech came out and modified the unit.

I am not the one who does the dishes usually so some of my recollections may be incorrect or just plain FAULTY....

THE UNIT IS DEAD....no response to any of the buttons on the panel

I seem to remember that when the door was closed there used to be a light that lit.....now no light....have had the inner door panel off and didn't see any signs of burnt/charred parts...

When the tech came out to modify the unit for the recall he poked around a couple minutes and pronounced that it had power......and to call it in....

I am a quite competent home repair practitioner....training in audio repair (30 years ago) and have most tools several VOM analog and digital....and learn very fast....if I had a manual would not be afraid to go it alone...However I feel more confident that I will more quickly and accurately diagnose with the help of all the experienced people here....

Any and all help is desired and greatly appreciated......

Thanks...

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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 02:42 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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first, check your Nuts ...

click on picture




MDBH955AWB Tech Sheets

MDBH955AWB Service Manual   12 MB



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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 01:45 pm
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daydreamer152
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RegUS

Checked my nuts......all is good there....sometimes it is not the easy solution.....did find vutrually all the insulation from around the unit UNDER the unit in little teeny tiny pieces and a dead mouse undeneath....surprise :shock:....really don't (at this point) see any connection but you never know.........looks like the weekend is going to have a major DW removal and clean-up :(....guess it is more fun than having to pull an engine from the car but just the same.....welcome to country life..... :D

Thanks for the links to the manuals will get those and do some reading and maybe have some questions after.....I hope I haven't run afoul of the god of irreparable circuit boards......;) They are not inexpensive........

 

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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 01:58 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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daydreamer152 wrote: ... did find vutrually all the insulation from around the unit UNDER the unit in little teeny tiny pieces and a dead mouse undeneath....surprise :shock:....really don't (at this point) see any connection but you never know... 
 
..welcome to country life..... :D

 he's the one that may have chewed off more that he wanted ...

 

 



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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 04:06 pm
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Ahh, "The country life is for me"....had a  front load washer , customer said "dead ".  Accessed the control panel and a pack-rat was using console area as a dog food depot, chewed only two little wires.. Replaced missing sections, fed the dog all of the kibbles.........Up and running.......

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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 02:08 am
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daydreamer152
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First test results are in Power to both door switches....jump across the each switch

and no results....circuit board had 120v ac on the appropriate pins.....now all I think I

have to figure out is is it the circuit board or the membrane switch panel......or I

suppose a double failure is possible.......as near as I can determine the only test for

the membrane panel are all switch continuity tests....wasn't going to try to work with

things that fine and fragile at this time of day.....

If there is a simpler test for the membrane panel I am all ears.......

RegUS and Certified tech....the mice are county mice and not up on all the modern

conveniences.....this one was able to find food in the dishwasher.....the vent hose

that is on the left side of the tub with the little grate on it.....they/he chewed through the hose and had free access to the tub......the little grate had been in the bottom of the tub but didn't think much about it...Oh dopey me :shock:.....

still have found no evidence of chewed wires......but have several stories of mice in car wiring and in snowmobiles, outboard motors, inboard motors and home heat pump/air conditioning units......never found any dog food to give back to the dogs though....

Thanks all


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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 02:51 am
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with the Door closed,

is there 120v AC from each of the Black Wires

to each of the White Wires ?

 



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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 03:42 am
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daydreamer152
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Reg US

switch on either side of latch....one side 2 white wires....other side 2 black wires....schematic shows the switches connect white to white  and black to black....kind of a double safety....seems redundant??

to bypass jumpered white to white and black to black....no response on the face plate....no light......

this was only simulated door "closing"....suppose I can rig something into the latch hole to test that way.....if you think it would make a difference.....

my bypass was the electrical equivalent and no difference.......

thanks

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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 03:46 am
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with the Door closed,

is there 120v AC from each of the (2) Black Wires

to each of the (2) White Wires ?

 

I'm sorry, I meant the wires on the Controller ...



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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 04:11 am
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SANTA
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I have the same dishwasher and none of the control panel lights have worked for about a year now but when I push start it runs a complete wash cycle and does a beautiful job. Might not work for you but thought I'd throw that in. Please don't ask me why I haven't fixed it yet.

PS The door latch handle is also broken and jammed up into the control panel but the door opens and closes just fine. Maybe I'm putting off the job until somebody pays me to do it.:D

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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 12:55 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair
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The most likely problem is the touchpad/console assembly hardly ever see the control board go bad on these models.   I see an unreasonable number of touchpads going bad though.

Order the touchpad/console from RepairClinic and if it doesn't fix your problem, (It will), then return the part, or order both the touchpad and controller and install only the touch pad and return the control board when you find out that you don't need it.

Touchpad/console assembly: 6-920244
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Touchpad-and-Control-Panel/1469761



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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 03:07 pm
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daydreamer152
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Gentlemen, sorry that I hadn't gotten more to you earlier but had a transportation

crisis that had to be attended to...now back on the dishwasher trail....

Santa how I wish it was only a malfunctioning pilot light but, the user controls are DEAD no reaction to input...

RegUs...There is power to the controller board (120v) on pins with the heavy white and black wires....3&4 and 10&11 and the single black on pin 8 of J5 at the other end of the board.

Budget...Your idea is simplicity itself....would involve some extra logistics to return items but a solid idea that is being considered.....

I feel that I should run the series of resistance checks on the switch panel....Budgets idea notwithstanding....is there a better test point on the back side of the controller board for the connections to the printed circuit connector to the switch panel??...or
do I have to get out extreme magnification so I can check through the pc foil on the "Ribbon"?

Again all comments and assistance is greatly appreciated.....




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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 04:57 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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If you unplug the TouchPanel from the Control Board, you can test the "bare ends" of the foils



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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 05:23 pm
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daydreamer152
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RegUS,...that's what I was afraid of...will need to get a bright light and some magnification.....kitchen lighting is REALLY bad....and my eyes are not what they were....o well...such is life...

Thanks......

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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 04:17 am
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daydreamer152
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Have done 2 groups of the resistance checks on the control panel.......I am shocked by the readings.....all readings have been infinity.......checked and rechecked....thought meter was wrong.....tested the series of motors and thermostats etc. and all got readings in the correct range.......

Have I missed something here?

Are the respective buttons supposed to be pressed during testing?

It would seem irregular but is the power supposed to be "plugged in" during these resistance measurements?.......

When one of these panels goes does it just go like that and have NO connection at all?

I am confused......

Thanks for your ear.....

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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 10:29 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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daydreamer152 wrote: ... all readings have been infinity
from the Tech Sheet (fine print)  :ooo:

A pressed switch will read as 10k



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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 12:09 pm
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I haven't had much luck myself on metering these touchpads but has always been a bad touchpad.

Stop fighting and get the touchpad/console, install it and have harmony, (and clean dishes), in the household again!!!!!



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