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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Neptune MAH5500WW |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! |
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| Maytag Neptune MAH5500WW | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 17th, 2010 01:25 am |
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1st Post |
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Beth Grasshopper
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Master, I fail. The battle rages and the machine is winning The beast did display the Lr code of death. I unplugged it and prayed, I chased white wires awake and asleep with no loose connections. I availed myself of the wisdom here and went forth to repair clinic for the motor and control kit. The enemy was met, dis-assembly commenced and instructions in hand I battled I was kicking butt to until the wiring. I have 3 lines to go.... #18 Attach green ground wire on main wire harness to the upper right terminal of the motor control board figure 4 there is no way the screw is going to fit through that terminal and as if that's not bad enough the diagram shows the ground wire going through a screw on the base #19 Locate the blue 2 terminal connector on the main wire harness. Connect the blue main wire harness connector to the white connector from the AC line filter on the new motor control board figure 4 there is no blue 2 terminal connector. What I have is 3 ends flopping about. From the main wire harness there is the connection that would go on the board where the new lower jumper wire is and on the main wire harness there is a jumper black and white wires; one end would fit the upper hole of the AC line filter the other would fit the blue connector that isn't there. #20 Plug in the washer and put into spin cycle to test the washer. I fear this master.... with loose wires the beast may detonate and all will be lost. I am an extremely lowly grass hopper and know nothing. I make an awesome cheese cake, but it really doesn't mix well with beer  Help me.... if the machine doesn't kill me the piles of laundry will
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| Posted: Sun Oct 17th, 2010 03:30 am |
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2nd Post |
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Beth Grasshopper
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Sorry its MAH5500BWW
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| Posted: Sun Oct 17th, 2010 05:26 am |
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3rd Post |
Tronicsmasta
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lol love the post. are you sure you needed the conversion kit? what is your serial number? did you follow this guide below to determine your mcu is bad? btw here is where everything connects to:  Tronicsmasta wrote: you can test the original motor control by removing the J4 connector on the mcu... As long as there is 120v on that black and white wire, that basket should rotate approx 60-90 rpms consistently until the power is removed or the J4 connect is returned onto the control...
____________________ It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com). |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 17th, 2010 05:28 am |
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4th Post |
Tronicsmasta
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oh forgot to put that the random green wire with the white connector on it goes right next to the red/blue harness that jumps from the filter to the board. there is a pin just sitting there to the right of the red wire... thats for the green from the original harness.
____________________ It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com). |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 17th, 2010 07:20 am |
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5th Post |
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Beth Grasshopper
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Thank you Master, It's be funny or look for hubby's demo saw. The serial # B5785471GE Did I need the kit.... repair.com said so....I put in the model # and there it was...magic. I did look through the listing and didn't see any other boards except the top ones. I read through everything I could find on the forum, there was another posting about the wiring I read through it 3 times never could figure out exactly what he did. I have it now  The shipping paperwork said the mfg had changed it so it wouldn't look the same but it would work maybe even better. The original evil part was just the board in the housing no little black box (AC line filter). Like the picture with the arrows. The board you show has the blue connector. If I had the blue connector the beast would be working overtime to make up for its betray. Coming out of the machine is the JP4 the Motor control and a plug that would fit that 3rd outlet on the board (the one with the jumper to the AC line filter) Attached to the wires on the new mcb is the jumper with the black and white wires for the blue plug I don't have. If my model doesn't need the AC line filter could I just pop out the jumper, use my existing plug and just use the board? I don't play well with voltage, and ouchhhh is not one of my preferred noises, and I lack the proper testing equipment ... I am a very bad grass hopper entirely too green. Impart your wisdom upon me master so that I may go forth and smite the evil Neptune, and break it to my will.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 17th, 2010 07:16 pm |
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6th Post |
Tronicsmasta
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B5 is wayy to new for a series number. i dont think you needed the conversion kit. can you take a picture of your old MCU and motor and upload it to http://imageshack.us/ for me and post the direct URL here?
____________________ It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com). |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 17th, 2010 10:20 pm |
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7th Post |
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Beth Grasshopper
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The requested link http://img256.imageshack.us/g/dsc00151l.jpg/ So Master, if the conversion kit was the wrong move, does that mean its exactly what I just pulled out with the addition of the ac line filter to accommodate an older machine? If this is so, could I just disconnect the ac line filter jumper from the board plug in the "not blue 2 prong connector/green connector combo" thus replacing both the board and motor? The price seems compatible to having to buy them separately. And more importantly its here now, where the piles are large and the stench becomes great.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 17th, 2010 10:30 pm |
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8th Post |
Tronicsmasta
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no you did not need the conversion. you only needed the mcu. same price either way. so yes what you will do is skip the line filter. so disconnect and remove the blue/red and green wires. you may have to cut the tape. connect the black, white and green right into the board and fire her up. 
____________________ It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com). |
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