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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Whirlpool LG7801XS--won't run! |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page:   1 2 3 |
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| Whirlpool LG7801XS--won't run! | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 12:16 am |
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41st Post |
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matth2 Grasshopper
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it's open from BU to W
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| Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 05:56 am |
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42nd Post |
Tronicsmasta
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Give us these measurements to clearify: BU to R1 R1 to R2 R2 to T T to W if everything is working properly, you should see 0v on all of them when you push to start the dryer. Which one of those are you getting 120v?
____________________ It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com). |
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| Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 06:11 am |
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43rd Post |
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matth2 Grasshopper
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T to W reads 120 I'm not immediately able to see where R1 and R2 are, so I can't read those right away, but I hope the T-W info is useful.
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| Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 07:01 am |
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44th Post |
Tronicsmasta
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you need a timer... i need a full model number to get you the correct part number. does it end in sw0 sw1 sw2 sn1 etc... post the full model number please
____________________ It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com). |
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| Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 07:36 am |
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45th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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r1 and r2 are the terminals on the start switch, we already determined that t-w was open in your timer- thus you jumpered it but still did not start the motor, you may have another issue - continue with your previous test from the bu terminal of timer - touch the other probe to either switch terminal to make sure switch is good. With t-w jumped the motor should have started
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 03:14 pm |
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46th Post |
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matth2 Grasshopper
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Tronicsmasta--I don't think I have the variant info (sw1, etc). When I pulled the part #, the timer was listed as being common to many models. kdog--Thanks. There are 3 terminals on the start switch. Do you have a suggestion to ID which is r1 and r2? -matt
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| Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 05:48 pm |
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47th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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r1 and r2 are the switch contacts (zero ohms when pressed/infinate when released) the other connection is for a relay coil within the switch (c1) and should show high resistance to r2
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 09:14 pm |
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48th Post |
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matth2 Grasshopper
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Yay...I replaced the timer and everything works. I also got a relay (start switch) just in case, but that's going back. Thanks for all your help. -matt P.S. I have a presumably good motor, so if there is anyone in the SF Bay Area interested, let me know.
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