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Whirlpool LHI7801 Imperial 70 Dryer - won't heat

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Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 07:41 pm

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1^st Post

ikaruga
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Hi all,

My mom has a 30-year old Whirlpool LHI7801 gas dryer that tumbles, but has no heat. Following the instructions on this site, I opened the kick plate to inspect the igniter. When it ran, I didn't hear any clicking, nor did I see anything glowing yellow. (But to be honest, I'm not sure what I should be looking for, since I've not seen these parts when the dryer's been working). I'll have to go back with my multimeter to test the various parts for continuity, but my main question is: is it worthwhile to repair such an old appliance?

I replaced the drive belt a couple years ago and the thermal relay recently. A $30 igniter is certainly cheaper than a new dryer, but what other surprises are waiting around the corner, given the age of this thing?

Thanks!

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Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 08:05 pm

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2^nd Post

RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

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If the Ignitor (inside # 17 & 18) isn't glowing, then the Thermal Fuse # 7 on the Blower Housing # 11 may be bad.

click on picture

and check clean your Venting System

Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F

Check / clean the Dryer Vent

Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.

Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,

click on picture $ 4.99 sometimes on sale for $ 2.99

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Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 07:12 pm

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3^rd Post

ikaruga
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Thanks for the reply! I had the opportunity to test the components with my multimeter this weekend, using the wiring diagram as a guide

1. The thermal relay shows continuity. (I also replaced this a couple months ago).
2. The thermostat (#15 in the parts diagram) shows continuity. I'm guessing that it's the "Safety Stat." in the wiring diagram.
3. I'm not sure what "Adj. Stat." is, but I think it's the temperature selector on the control console. It has a long, stiff metal wire that starts at the console and ends at the blower housing exit. This part shows continuity as well.
4. The radiant sensor (#49) shows continuity.

Testing the ignitor was a little trickier for me. My dryer doesn't have Molex connectors, just these nylon end caps.

(You can barely see the molex connector from the power supply at the bottom of the photo, but the ground/voltage wires are then split into the end caps. The valve solenoids are the dark blobs in the right-center of the photo.)

They're not wire nuts--I think they're called crimp caps-- and the only way I could figure out to remove the wire was to cut it. Is there a better way to remove these caps?

Anyhow, probing the wires indicated no continuity, so I'm guessing that I need to replace the ignitor. What's the best way for me to reconnect the ignitor if I don't have a matching molex collector? Should I cut off the connector the part comes with, and wire nut everything together? Should I replace my existing caps with molex connectors?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

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Posted: Tue Oct 12th, 2010 01:29 am

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4^th Post

Tronicsmasta

Joined:	Wed May 30th, 2007
Location:	Woodland Hills, California USA
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if the ignitor is open, and you need to replace it, it will come with ceramic wire nuts to replace the end crimp style caps. the new ignitors are different than the old one. they come with ceramic nuts and a bracket you have to install.

check for 120v AC by sticking your meter probes inside those crimps. you should be able to get far enough in to touch copper or tinned wire. if you see 120v AC and no glow, replace ignitor. whirlpool p/n 279311

if you have 0v and are suuure that the meter leads took a good reading, then you are probably looking at a thermal fuse, timer, tstat, or somethign in the other portion of the heating circuit. get back to us

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Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 11:14 pm

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5^th Post

ikaruga
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Yay, the dryer heats again. The first ignitor I ordered from appliancepartspros.com arrived shattered (the "Damage Free Guarantee" sticker on the box didn't seem to help), but sent me a replacement pretty quickly.

The instructions that came with the part were very thorough, and it took me about an hour to complete. As Tronicsmasta suggested, I had an older, round ignitor (instead of a flat one) which required cutting and stripping a few wires.

Thanks for your help, everyone!

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Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 11:25 pm

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6^th Post

appl.tech.29501
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ikaruga wrote: The first ignitor I ordered from appliancepartspros.com

:whipit:

Shoulda used Repairclinic.com

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Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 11:56 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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ikaruga wrote:
The first ignitor I ordered from appliancepartspros.com arrived shattered

I dunno what else to do: I even say right in the activation email that you got to register in this forum to buy your parts from us because that's what helps keep the lights on here. I even have a big parts searchbbox at the top of the page and on the sidebar of the forum homepage, What else can I do to make that message more clear to grasshoppahs like yourself?

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