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GE Downdraft Vent Model JVB94SH1SS  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 05:51 am
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mrosec
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OK.  Tomorrow when I have a buddy to help me I will test for push switch continuity while the push swith is being pushed.  I'll let you know what happens.  I appreciate your help!

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 Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 02:27 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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You can easily test the push switch by shorting the terminals it plugs into on the board. unplug the 2 wire connector and touch the terminals together with an insulated screwdriver. if it goes down(or up) you have your problem .



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 Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 09:31 pm
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mrosec
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Hi, I shorted the two wire connectors on the control board and still nothing happened.  What do you think now?

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 Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 09:50 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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are you shorting the the plug itself or the prongs where the plug connects on the board? should be shorting the prongs on the board, with the plug disconnected.

power is on and plugged in?



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 Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 10:46 pm
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mrosec
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I am shorting the prongs on the board with the appliance plugged in. 

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 Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 10:59 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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not making any sense...if you have replaced the board and motor and limits are good...only thing left is the pushbutton and this test simulates the push button.

go back and make sure you wired up the new board correctly

will it still work shorting the limit?



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 Posted: Tue Oct 12th, 2010 07:15 pm
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mrosec
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Okay.  Went back and checked connections.  All are correct.  One was loose.  I crimped it down and then tried shorting the two wires on the control board again and the motor started turning, just a few clicks and then it stopped.  So, I am guessing the loose wire was the cause of the problem.  So, this tells me the push switch is bad, right?  Or am I more lost than I think I am?!?

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 Posted: Tue Oct 12th, 2010 07:34 pm
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the connection was bad (wherever that was)

Try the Push Switch again



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 Posted: Tue Oct 12th, 2010 10:30 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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i agree with regus- try it again.

if the push switch wont start it but shorting the terminals will...bad push switch



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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 12:04 am
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mrosec
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No...push switch won't work.  Will order the part and let you know.  I am dreading putting that thing in but this is cheaper than buying a new appliance!

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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 10:45 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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dying to know how this turned out...

 



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 Posted: Tue Oct 26th, 2010 04:59 pm
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mrosec
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Hasn't turned out yet!  So sorry...I have been so busy planning two Halloween parties that I put the repair off until afterwards.  Since I am going to have to completely uninstall the cooktop, I thought it best to wait.  I will definitely post an update after installing the new switch.  Thanks.

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 Posted: Sat Dec 10th, 2011 06:15 pm
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mrosec
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I know it have been a little over a year but I am just now finding the time to get this thing resolved. I installed the new push switch and was so excited to have a working downdraft vent again but no luck! The vent will raise and lower but I have to continuously hold the push switch. AND now the blower won't come on. It doesn't seem like any power is getting to the motor....no humming or anything. Thought the two limit switches had gone bad but had them tested today and was told they are still good. The control board is from October last year and has not been used but I guess it could still be the problem. Pretty sure I have everything wired correctly and I checked for tight connections. Is there a way for me to test it? What else do you think I could be looking at here?

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