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Whirlpool LSQ9659LWO Bad Motor?  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Sep 29th, 2010 02:45 am
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SteveK1
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Honorable masters,

My Whirlpool (model LSQ9659LWO) Washer is fritzing again. I replaced the direct drive coupler a couple months ago. But now I have a different problem. The washer does not agitate, spin or empty the water. The only thing it does is fill with water and make a humming sound.

I have checked the drive coupler and by turning that, I can turn the agitator and spin the tub by hand. I also checked the water pump for obstructions and found nothing. The coupler seemed in good shape also. All I can figure at this point is the motor is shot. If I understand it correctly it turns both the pump and the coupler so if it wasn't turning the spindles that would account for the symptoms.

Anyone have any other ideas for verifying or diagnosing the problem befoer Id rop $225 on a new motor?

Your help is undeserved and greatly appreciated.

Steve  

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 Posted: Wed Sep 29th, 2010 02:51 am
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You need to OHM the capacitor, do you have an analog multi meter with 10K?



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 Posted: Wed Sep 29th, 2010 03:36 am
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SteveK1
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I believe I do have such a device. I haven't used it a lot and not for some time so I expect I'll be a bit rusty but I have one. Can you run me through what I need to do to check the capacitor? I would appreciate any help.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 29th, 2010 03:58 am
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disconnect the wires, turn meter to 10K or higher, one meter lead to 1 terminal, the other meter lead to the other terminal. The needle on the meter should go to the right and slowly drift back down. then reverse the meter leads and check again...should have same result.

If it doesn't go to the right and drift back down on both tests then the capacitor is bad...if the needle pegs completely to the right and doesn't drift back down the capacitor is also bad.



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 Posted: Wed Sep 29th, 2010 04:12 am
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SteveK1
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The capacitor wires are the ones going into the motor through the harness? I am  not exactly sure where the capacitor would be. I am assuming it's on the motor but there are several wires in that harness. The diagrams I have referenced are a little vague on that.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 29th, 2010 04:31 am
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The capacitor is either attached to the side of the motor, on the back wall on the right side, or in the control panel. It looks like this


Capacitor Link ( If Needed )





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 Posted: Wed Sep 29th, 2010 10:48 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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my money's on a bad Speed (Fabric Selector Cycle) Switch

have you tried all of the Speed settings ?

 LSQ9659LW0 Wiring Diagram



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 Posted: Wed Sep 29th, 2010 06:44 pm
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I have tried all the differnet speeds and dial settings and all result in the same issue. Buzzing but no movement from the washer and no draining of the water. If the speed switch was bad what would be the diagnostic signs? Would some setting work and not others.? Why would the water fill when I start (controlled by the switch being activated) but not activate the remainder of the cycle?

 

Thanks for the help.

 

Steve.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 29th, 2010 06:51 pm
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SteveK1 wrote: If the speed switch was bad what would be the diagnostic signs? 
humming or no Motor


SteveK1 wrote: Would some setting work and not others.?
sometimes

 
SteveK1 wrote: Why would the water fill when I start (controlled by the switch being activated) but not activate the remainder of the cycle?
Water Fill is controlled by the Timer and the Water Level Switch



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 Posted: Wed Sep 29th, 2010 07:22 pm
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SteveK1
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SO how do I figure out if the speed switch is bad.

Also I don't have an analog multimeter. I have an autoranging digital multimeter. What should I look for in the results there? I imagine a spike in the reading with a drift lower. Something in the 10K range.m

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 Posted: Wed Sep 29th, 2010 07:40 pm
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use an OHM Meter on the Switch using the Wiring Diagram and the Speed Switch (Fabric Cycle) chart

Yes, try testing the Capcacitor with the digital meter and see if you get any action...

also try a lower OHM range 



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 Posted: Wed Sep 29th, 2010 11:54 pm
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SteveK1
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OK! Final resolution is here!

In the end it was THE CAPACITOR!

I checked it (after finding it on the back wall) and got no voltage readings at all. I was less than shure in my ability to get valid readings so I thought up some additional tests to eliminate other things.

Transmission seized: no I can turn the direct drive by hand and make the tub spin and agitate.

Motor: with no load (out of the machine) it spins in both directions.

Water pump: With the motor attached to the direct drive coupler but not the water pump it still won't budge.

Transmission again: with the motor attached only to the water pump it still won't turn.

So it appeared by all indications the capacitor wasn't dumping enough juice to get things rolling. When I finally got it out I could see the bottom was melted out and black goo drippage. It's wrapped in a foam that prevented me from seeing it when installed.

Once that was swapped out for about $36.00 everything fired right up.

So thank you much to appl.tech.29501 and RegUS_PAtoff for all your help and advice. I hope I can repay your efrforts someday in some way. My most sincere appreciation to you.

Steve

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 Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2010 03:39 am
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appl.tech.29501
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glad to help



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 Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2010 04:13 am
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Once again, the wisdom of the Sublime Master shines like a beacon in the dark miasma of appliance dystopia.

Nice shootin', appl.tech! :dude:



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