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Kenmore Elite w/Evenheat 110.63932102 will not start after a run

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Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 05:51 am

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rplieth
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Kenmore Elite Heavy Duty w/Evenheat

Model #: 110.63932102

I've been looking around on forums for something specific to my dryer issue but not sure what to start looking at. My dryer will run solid for a full long time load (up to 80 minutes)on any setting or heat level however after the load is done drying it will not start back up. I press the button and it may buzz and try but after a few seconds of holding it fails and then does nothing at all. After about an hour cooldown time I can come back and it will start up again. I have checked the evenheat control board and there are no burn marks, tried swapping the interchangeable relays and ensure it has solid continus 220 power, ensured good air intake and exhaust. Thoughts? Everything I've read up on suggests a (reputably) bad board.

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Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 05:56 am

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kdog
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Sounds like it may be a motor issue

RepairClinic part #158

Last edited on Mon Sep 20th, 2010 05:58 am by kdog

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Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 06:30 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Yep, sounds like a motor. Here's the part link...

http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-158-%3d%3di158&PartID=158

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Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 06:45 am

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rplieth
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Hmm, pretty spendy and seemingly not worth the repair over a new(er) dryer purchase. Is there a way to verify your thougts of it being the motor, test it somehow?

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Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 07:35 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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rplieth wrote: ... Is there a way to verify your thougts of it being the motor, test it somehow?
when it won't start, feel the Motor to see if it's hot

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Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 07:54 am

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rplieth
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Thanks, follow up questions:

Presumably if it is hot to the touch so much that could cause a burn, it is bad? Under normal conditions it would still be cool enough to touch, even after a long high heat run? I just want to be sure before I order up a new motor. Thanks btw for your prompt replies, much appreciated. Any other ways to isolate the motor?

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Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 08:09 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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the Dryer heat doesn't normally heat the Motor that much.

If you can't hold the palm of your hand on the Motor for any length of time (count to 10)
then it's probably bad.

OR if you could do some voltage measurements ..

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Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 08:17 am

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rplieth
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Measurements were kind of my aim, a more surefire diagnosis. What leads am I testing and what are the values for a good vs. bad motor?

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Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 10:22 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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When the Dryer is set to run, and someone holds the Start Button,
there should be 120v AC at the Notor,
between Pin(5) White and Pin (4) maybe Blue

110.63932102 Wiring Diagram

OR remove the Belt and try turning the Motor Shaft by hand,
does it turn easily, smoothly ?

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Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2010 08:17 am

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rplieth
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Well I tore it apart and found the whole inside covered in lint as to be expected. I dismounted the motor and with some compressed air I cleaned all the windings and took some needlenose pliers to get in at the deep lint. The motor shaft spun very freely. Now it will not start at all however after I reassembled everything. Verified there is 220 coming in. I can hear a relay click on the control panel when pressing start but nothing else. I double checked that I wired everything back up correctly (took pictures). Everything appears kosher on the wiring... just no action at all from the motor... could cleaning it as I did have fouled it for good or a relay or switch is bad? I checked the door switch with an ohmeter... 3 prong switch with only two wires on it however... reads at infinity with switch open and moves to 0 when switch pressed/closed plus the fact that the relays are clicking leads me to believe the door switch is fine. I checked to make sure the broken belt microswitch is not being pressed and it is not. Ensured moisture sensor wire was hooked back up. New motor time? I took pix of all my connections as well if needed.

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Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2010 08:37 am

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rplieth
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See my pictures at the following links:

https://home.comcast.net/~datastore1/photo.jpg

https://home.comcast.net/~datastore1/photo2.jpg

https://home.comcast.net/~datastore1/photo3.jpg

https://home.comcast.net/~datastore1/photo4.jpg

https://home.comcast.net/~datastore1/photo5.jpg

https://home.comcast.net/~datastore1/photo6.jpg

https://home.comcast.net/~datastore1/photo7.jpg

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Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2010 09:21 am

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rplieth
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Sorry... false alarm. Checked wiring at motor again and found that the blue wire coming into the motor from the broken belt switch (best seen on photo7) was a terminal off. Doh! Put it on an identical terminal up the block closest to the purple wire... shazam! It's working now and thoroughly cleaned. Suppose we'll see how it does in action. Thanks again for your help... if it recurs and it will not turn on after a long load I'll take it apart right away and feel the temp of the motor.

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Posted: Thu Sep 23rd, 2010 06:07 am

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rplieth
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So I got it all together and ran a load using the even heat moisture setting. Only ran for about 15 mins and stopped, kinda made a buzzing sound on it's way out. Pulled the panel off and felt the motor housing and it's very hot (burns) to the touch. 100% on motor replacement now?

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Posted: Fri Sep 24th, 2010 02:58 am

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rplieth
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Can someone review my last post and let me know if a new motor purchase is the best path to head down presently?

Thanks

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Posted: Fri Sep 24th, 2010 03:10 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: ... If you can't hold the palm of your hand on the Motor for any length of time (count to 10)
then it's probably bad....

rplieth wrote:
... felt the motor housing and it's very hot (burns) to the touch. 100% on motor replacement now?

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