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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE TFX22ZPBEWW icemaker flapper door not opening |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! |
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| GE TFX22ZPBEWW icemaker flapper door not opening | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Fri Sep 17th, 2010 12:58 am |
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1st Post |
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acadiel Grasshopper
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This just started happening the past few days... when we ask for ice by putting the cup in the dispenser, the auger motor works just fine, but the flapper-door doesn't open. Thus, ice builds up behind it, and becomes a mess when we open up the door. I can manually hold the door open while holding a cup underneath (that's quite a trick too!), but would like to figure what's keeping the flapper door from automatically opening by itself.
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| Posted: Fri Sep 17th, 2010 03:00 am |
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2nd Post |
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appl.tech.29501 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Turn the water supply to the frige off Start by popping cover #53 of the dispenser (just pulls off) Remove screws that are holding in item # 48 It will be tight because you need to leave the wires attached to item #39 With you volt meter check to see if your getting 120 VAC to the coil item #36 when you push the ice paddle. If you are then the coil is bad or the are on the end of the flapper item # 67 may be broken. If your not getting voltage then you time delay board item # 39 is probably bad. Here are the links to the parts you "may" need. Board Link Dispenser Coil Link Crank Link ![]()
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| Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 12:55 pm |
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3rd Post |
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acadiel Grasshopper
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Thanks for the quick reply! I'll get my meter out and check it.
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| Posted: Tue Sep 21st, 2010 01:35 am |
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4th Post |
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acadiel Grasshopper
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OK, see attached picture. I measured voltage at the top of the coil (at the tippity top, where there wasn't an insulator on the connector), and had the icemaker set to dispense. (The coil - where the red colored wire is on the left, and I believe orange on the right.) No 120V. So, I'm guessing the board, right? (Nope, don't know why the iPhone flipped the picture. <grin> Attachment: photo-1.JPG (Downloaded 15 times) Last edited on Tue Sep 21st, 2010 01:36 am by acadiel |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 21st, 2010 04:40 am |
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5th Post |
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appl.tech.29501 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Yep looks like you need a board...I've never seen those 2 wires not have insulated ends, that's kind of odd.
____________________ If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below http://homepage.mac.com/zenzoidman/appl.tech.29501/ |
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| Posted: Fri Jan 7th, 2011 05:44 pm |
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6th Post |
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acadiel Grasshopper
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I went ahead and ordered the board finally. After I shut off the water and power to the fridge, anything I should know that should keep this from being a straightforward "take the old one out and put the new one in"? Thanks.
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