- Home


Air Conditioners | Dehumidifiers | Dishwashers | Disposals | Dryers | Freezers | Humidifiers | Ice Makers | Microwave Ovens | Ovens, Ranges, Stoves | Refrigerators | Trash Compactors | Washers | Water Filters

FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer

Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!


 Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 Search Our Sites for More Info!
New Topic Reply Printer Friendly
Maytag Dishwasher MDB7100AWB  Rate Topic 
AuthorPost
 Posted: Sun Sep 5th, 2010 02:09 pm
  PM Quote Reply
1st Post
ToddF
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010
Location:  
Posts: 9
Flavorite Brew: Beamish
Status: 
Offline
This work fine since 2000 until....after a wash sycle completed, there was an audible buzz (like when something shorts out), then it stopped. It did not drain. When I tried to "start" or "drain", it does nothing. I emptied the water from the bottom and tried "rinse only", it did fill with water. There was a soft click, like it was goint on to the next stage, but it did nothing. The panel is lit, but the timer does not count down as it did when it worked properly. As long as I empty the water from the bottom (with a cup and rag), it will refill as if it is going to wash, but it doesn't run.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Sun Sep 5th, 2010 07:54 pm
  PM Quote Reply
2nd Post
appl.tech.29501
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sun Oct 7th, 2007
Location: South Carolina USA
Posts: 6784
Flavorite Brew: waffle house coffee
Status: 
Offline
After full when it should be washing you need to check to see if you have 120V at the motor harness connector (while still connected). If no voltage then you will need a new control. if you have 120V then you will need a new motor.

Control Link




____________________
If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

http://homepage.mac.com/zenzoidman/appl.tech.29501/
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Wed Sep 8th, 2010 07:20 pm
  PM Quote Reply
3rd Post
ToddF
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010
Location:  
Posts: 9
Flavorite Brew: Beamish
Status: 
Offline
Thank you. I do not have voltage at the motor harnass. I noticed on the control panel that the circuit board was discolored around R301 & R302. Have you ever tried to replace just these resistors? Or found the cause of them opening?

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Wed Sep 8th, 2010 08:21 pm
  PM Quote Reply
4th Post
ROBBYRIG



Joined: Sat Apr 26th, 2008
Location: Illinois USA
Posts: 598
Flavorite Brew: Bud Light of course
Status: 
Offline
Depends on how good of a solder-er you are.
I'd bet on replacing that board and you should be good to go.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Fri Sep 24th, 2010 01:53 am
  PM Quote Reply
5th Post
ToddF
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010
Location:  
Posts: 9
Flavorite Brew: Beamish
Status: 
Offline
I installed the new control panel and the dishwasher still does not work. Again, I measured the voltage at the motor plug while it was connected. This molded plug has a blue, gray, red and yellow wire. I connected the voltmeter probes into the back of the plug and get 55 VAC between the blue and gray and from both blue and gray and chassis ground. The dishwasher fills, then once about every 30 secs it starts to fill for about one sec. During this one sec interval is when I see the 55VAC, then it drops to 4 VAC.

Please advise on what I should check/replace next...Thanks.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Fri Sep 24th, 2010 02:37 am
  PM Quote Reply
6th Post
appl.tech.29501
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sun Oct 7th, 2007
Location: South Carolina USA
Posts: 6784
Flavorite Brew: waffle house coffee
Status: 
Offline
check the incoming power at the junction box under the dishwasher with out the unit on...should have 120 V, then turn the dishwasher on...when it's pulsing does your voltage at the junction box change?



____________________
If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

http://homepage.mac.com/zenzoidman/appl.tech.29501/
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Sep 28th, 2010 12:10 am
  PM Quote Reply
7th Post
ToddF
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010
Location:  
Posts: 9
Flavorite Brew: Beamish
Status: 
Offline
I have 120V at the junction box. This voltage does not fluctuate when the unit is pulsing. I checked the drain hose and confirmed it is not clogged. Please advise what the next step is.   Thanks!

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Tue Sep 28th, 2010 04:51 am
  PM Quote Reply
8th Post
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 21st, 2005
Location: Otterville, New Hampshire USA
Posts: 16082
Flavorite Brew: Kirin Ichiban
Status: 
Offline
So you have a good power supply at the junction box but junk voltage (55vac) at the motor and you have a new control board.

Do you have 120vac coming out of the board, on the other end of that motor wire harness?

Some possibilities:

- bad wire harness or harness connector; make sure the harness is fully in at the board.

- the board was damaged while installed (common with noobs) or you got a bad board (rare but happens).



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed!
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Sep 28th, 2010 08:57 am
  PM Quote Reply
9th Post
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts: 16509
Flavorite Brew: Indian Head. Black & White
Status: 
Offline

is there 120v AC across the Black and White Wires connected to the Controller Board ?

 




____________________
The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org
Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2010 01:48 pm
  PM Quote Reply
10th Post
ToddF
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010
Location:  
Posts: 9
Flavorite Brew: Beamish
Status: 
Offline
How do I defeat the door switch so I can measure power at the control board? I metered  and confirmed continuity on the Blue, Gray, Red and Yellow wires from the control board to the motor.

I confirmed the plugs are seated on the control board. Is there another test measurement I can make to determine if the control board is bad. I didn't damage the control panel when I installed it and it went in easily.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Fri Oct 1st, 2010 06:13 pm
  PM Quote Reply
11th Post
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 21st, 2005
Location: Otterville, New Hampshire USA
Posts: 16082
Flavorite Brew: Kirin Ichiban
Status: 
Offline
You could jumper out the door switch, just be sure to kill power to the dishwasher by cutting the circuit breaker before you install the jumper wire.

The other way, on some models, you can close the door inner panel minor while you work on the control panel-- is may be the case with yours I just don't recall.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed!
Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Fri Oct 1st, 2010 09:42 pm
  PM Quote Reply
12th Post
ToddF
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010
Location:  
Posts: 9
Flavorite Brew: Beamish
Status: 
Offline
Yes these is 120V between the black and white wire on the control panel. I've started the warranty claim on the replacement control board. Is there anything else I can check?

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Fri Oct 1st, 2010 10:31 pm
  PM Quote Reply
13th Post
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology


Joined: Mon Mar 21st, 2005
Location: Otterville, New Hampshire USA
Posts: 16082
Flavorite Brew: Kirin Ichiban
Status: 
Offline
Sounds like you have it covered. If you are getting 120 V at the control board and the control board isn't doing anything, then that's a bad control board by definition.



____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed!
Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Mon Oct 4th, 2010 04:37 pm
  PM Quote Reply
14th Post
ToddF
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010
Location:  
Posts: 9
Flavorite Brew: Beamish
Status: 
Offline
Thanks for your help. RepairClinic is sending another control board. They said to check to make sure the motor is not shorted to ground, as this may be what is frying the control boards. What is the best way of checking to see if the motor is shorted?

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Mon Oct 4th, 2010 06:22 pm
  PM Quote Reply
15th Post
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts: 16509
Flavorite Brew: Indian Head. Black & White
Status: 
Offline
OHM meter ... Motor Blue to:

Grey

Red

Yellow

case

 



____________________
The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org
Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Sun Oct 10th, 2010 09:50 pm
  PM Quote Reply
16th Post
ToddF
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010
Location:  
Posts: 9
Flavorite Brew: Beamish
Status: 
Offline
The Motor metered out OK. I installed the new control board and it's acting the same way: Good voltage to the control board, junk voltage(55VAC) out to the motor when it pulses. I noticed that resistors R301 & R302 were very hot. The original control board was discolored around these same resistors. Any ideas?

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Sun Oct 10th, 2010 10:37 pm
  PM Quote Reply
17th Post
appl.tech.29501
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sun Oct 7th, 2007
Location: South Carolina USA
Posts: 6784
Flavorite Brew: waffle house coffee
Status: 
Offline
You need to ohm each wire that goes to the motor.....blue,gray,red,yellow.

Disconnect at board and at motor and ohm each one



____________________
If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

http://homepage.mac.com/zenzoidman/appl.tech.29501/
Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 01:35 pm
  PM Quote Reply
18th Post
ToddF
Grasshopper
 

Joined: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010
Location:  
Posts: 9
Flavorite Brew: Beamish
Status: 
Offline
I confirmed continuity on each of these four conductors.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

Current time is 06:04 am Tell a friend about this page... all your other friends are doing it!  
- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Dishwasher MDB7100AWB Top



Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!

FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
- Home
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly, spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


UltraBB 1.17 Copyright © 2007-2008 Data 1 Systems
Page processed in 0.1204 seconds (6% database + 94% PHP). 26 queries executed.

Web Analytics