|
|
Air Conditioners | Dehumidifiers | Dishwashers | Disposals | Dryers | Freezers | Humidifiers | Ice Makers | Microwave Ovens | Ovens, Ranges, Stoves | Refrigerators | Trash Compactors | Washers | Water Filters |
|
FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Consultations | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer | Fixitnow.com
|
ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Dishwasher MDB7100AWB |
|
| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! |
|
|||||||||||||
| Maytag Dishwasher MDB7100AWB | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: Sun Sep 5th, 2010 02:09 pm |
|
1st Post |
|
ToddF Grasshopper
|
This work fine since 2000 until....after a wash sycle completed, there was an audible buzz (like when something shorts out), then it stopped. It did not drain. When I tried to "start" or "drain", it does nothing. I emptied the water from the bottom and tried "rinse only", it did fill with water. There was a soft click, like it was goint on to the next stage, but it did nothing. The panel is lit, but the timer does not count down as it did when it worked properly. As long as I empty the water from the bottom (with a cup and rag), it will refill as if it is going to wash, but it doesn't run.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Sun Sep 5th, 2010 07:54 pm |
|
2nd Post |
|
appl.tech.29501 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
|
After full when it should be washing you need to check to see if you have 120V at the motor harness connector (while still connected). If no voltage then you will need a new control. if you have 120V then you will need a new motor. Control Link 
____________________ If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below http://homepage.mac.com/zenzoidman/appl.tech.29501/ |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Wed Sep 8th, 2010 07:20 pm |
|
3rd Post |
|
ToddF Grasshopper
|
Thank you. I do not have voltage at the motor harnass. I noticed on the control panel that the circuit board was discolored around R301 & R302. Have you ever tried to replace just these resistors? Or found the cause of them opening?
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Wed Sep 8th, 2010 08:21 pm |
|
4th Post |
ROBBYRIG
|
Depends on how good of a solder-er you are. I'd bet on replacing that board and you should be good to go.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Sep 24th, 2010 01:53 am |
|
5th Post |
|
ToddF Grasshopper
|
I installed the new control panel and the dishwasher still does not work. Again, I measured the voltage at the motor plug while it was connected. This molded plug has a blue, gray, red and yellow wire. I connected the voltmeter probes into the back of the plug and get 55 VAC between the blue and gray and from both blue and gray and chassis ground. The dishwasher fills, then once about every 30 secs it starts to fill for about one sec. During this one sec interval is when I see the 55VAC, then it drops to 4 VAC. Please advise on what I should check/replace next...Thanks.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Sep 24th, 2010 02:37 am |
|
6th Post |
|
appl.tech.29501 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
check the incoming power at the junction box under the dishwasher with out the unit on...should have 120 V, then turn the dishwasher on...when it's pulsing does your voltage at the junction box change?
____________________ If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below http://homepage.mac.com/zenzoidman/appl.tech.29501/ |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Tue Sep 28th, 2010 12:10 am |
|
7th Post |
|
ToddF Grasshopper
|
I have 120V at the junction box. This voltage does not fluctuate when the unit is pulsing. I checked the drain hose and confirmed it is not clogged. Please advise what the next step is. Thanks!
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Tue Sep 28th, 2010 04:51 am |
|
8th Post |
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
|
So you have a good power supply at the junction box but junk voltage (55vac) at the motor and you have a new control board. Do you have 120vac coming out of the board, on the other end of that motor wire harness? Some possibilities: - bad wire harness or harness connector; make sure the harness is fully in at the board. - the board was damaged while installed (common with noobs) or you got a bad board (rare but happens).
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Tue Sep 28th, 2010 08:57 am |
|
9th Post |
|
RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
|
is there 120v AC across the Black and White Wires connected to the Controller Board ? 
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2010 01:48 pm |
|
10th Post |
|
ToddF Grasshopper
|
How do I defeat the door switch so I can measure power at the control board? I metered and confirmed continuity on the Blue, Gray, Red and Yellow wires from the control board to the motor. I confirmed the plugs are seated on the control board. Is there another test measurement I can make to determine if the control board is bad. I didn't damage the control panel when I installed it and it went in easily.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Oct 1st, 2010 06:13 pm |
|
11th Post |
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
|
You could jumper out the door switch, just be sure to kill power to the dishwasher by cutting the circuit breaker before you install the jumper wire. The other way, on some models, you can close the door inner panel minor while you work on the control panel-- is may be the case with yours I just don't recall.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Oct 1st, 2010 09:42 pm |
|
12th Post |
|
ToddF Grasshopper
|
Yes these is 120V between the black and white wire on the control panel. I've started the warranty claim on the replacement control board. Is there anything else I can check?
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Oct 1st, 2010 10:31 pm |
|
13th Post |
|
Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
|
Sounds like you have it covered. If you are getting 120 V at the control board and the control board isn't doing anything, then that's a bad control board by definition.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Oct 4th, 2010 04:37 pm |
|
14th Post |
|
ToddF Grasshopper
|
Thanks for your help. RepairClinic is sending another control board. They said to check to make sure the motor is not shorted to ground, as this may be what is frying the control boards. What is the best way of checking to see if the motor is shorted?
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Oct 4th, 2010 06:22 pm |
|
15th Post |
|
RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
OHM meter ... Motor Blue to: Grey Red Yellow case
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Sun Oct 10th, 2010 09:50 pm |
|
16th Post |
|
ToddF Grasshopper
|
The Motor metered out OK. I installed the new control board and it's acting the same way: Good voltage to the control board, junk voltage(55VAC) out to the motor when it pulses. I noticed that resistors R301 & R302 were very hot. The original control board was discolored around these same resistors. Any ideas?
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Sun Oct 10th, 2010 10:37 pm |
|
17th Post |
|
appl.tech.29501 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
You need to ohm each wire that goes to the motor.....blue,gray,red,yellow. Disconnect at board and at motor and ohm each one
____________________ If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below http://homepage.mac.com/zenzoidman/appl.tech.29501/ |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Mon Oct 11th, 2010 01:35 pm |
|
18th Post |
|
ToddF Grasshopper
|
I confirmed continuity on each of these four conductors.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
Current time is 07:35 pm
|
|
| ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Dishwasher MDB7100AWB | Top |
| Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here |
| Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description. |
|
365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site! |
FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Consultations | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer | Fixitnow.com
