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KENMORE 665.16372300 DISHWASHER  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 07:35 am
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BUCKHUNTER
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I STARTED SMELLING WIRE BURNING WITH NO SMOKE. TODAY SMOKE WOULD NOT SHUT OFF. THE PANEL BURNT AND MELTED. JUST A PROBLEM WITH THE CICUIT BOARD? OR WIRING ALSO?:( THANKS  BUCKHUNTER

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 10:49 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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665.16372300 Tech Sheets

may be similar

KitchenAid KD-01 Stainless Steel Dishwasher



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 07:24 pm
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BUCKHUNTER
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if i get a new board do i need to worry about it instantly burning out as soon as i try it? did something fail and cause the board to short out? or just isolated to the board?
thanks
buckhunter

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 07:40 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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would need to do some testing ..

my meter leads aren't that long  :)



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 07:46 pm
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BUCKHUNTER
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test before plugging in new board?:

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 Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2010 06:14 pm
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I have seen many of these meltdowns occur - usually requires replacing the wiring harness as well as the board - inspect the wiring carefully, you'll likely find smoked terminals on the wires,and possibly strips of missing insulation where the wires have imbedded themselves in the sound tar on the door



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 Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2010 06:24 pm
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It would be awesome to see some pics of your control panel melt-down! Could you post a few? You can use a free photo hosting service, like imageshack.us, and post the links here.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2010 06:49 pm
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BUCKHUNTER
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I will check the harness. I will take pictures.
thanks Glen,buckhunter

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 Posted: Wed Sep 1st, 2010 05:29 pm
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BUCKHUNTER
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i did not find any burnt or melted wires. what should the thermal fuse test at? i have the new board on the way. do you think it is going to burn as soon as i turn it on? what do i look for as to what caused it to melt? here is links to the pictures.
buck








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 Posted: Wed Sep 1st, 2010 06:30 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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It looks like the souce of the "fire" is from the Terminal W-R, which connects to the Heater.

The Heater may be partially shorted to chassis (ground).

Take a close look and measure the Heater's resistance and it's resistance to ground

before installing the new Controller.



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 Posted: Wed Sep 1st, 2010 06:38 pm
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BUCKHUNTER
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do you have the specs? are they listed somewhere?

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 Posted: Wed Sep 1st, 2010 06:45 pm
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Tech Sheets posted earlier ...



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 Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 05:08 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Great pics! Now that I see 'em, that jogs my memory-- I have seen this before. It's not common but, in the cases I've seen, they were all caused by a loose connection at one of the wire harness connectors on the board. Your top pic, with the burnt harness connectors, looks like it fits that profile. I ended up cutting the wires out of the harness connecters and crimping on new terminals to make the connections on the board. Concurrent with this was a bad thermal fuse though this needn't always be the case.



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 Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 05:22 am
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BUCKHUNTER
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the theramal fuse is clipped to the side of the case? it ohms out fine. the heater ohms out @ 10.the thermasat does not ohm it is 0 at room temp. i will cut the ends off the wires anr put on new terminals. should i get a thermal fuse? what about hte thermastat?

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 Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 05:53 am
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appl.tech.29501
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The high limit thermostat should be closed at room temp., shouldn't open until 170 F. +

Fuse should be ok

Did you ohm the heater to ground?



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 Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 04:03 pm
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BUCKHUNTER
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yes ohmed at .4. no continuity

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 Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 05:54 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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BUCKHUNTER wrote: ... ohmed at .4.
is that infinity ?



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 Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 05:57 pm
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BUCKHUNTER
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0.4

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 Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 06:03 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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BUCKHUNTER wrote: 0.4
OHMs ?

that's a short ...



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 Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 06:12 pm
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BUCKHUNTER
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yes ohms.what should it be? that would be the orange or white wire to ground?

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