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GE S/S M#-TFX25PRBAWW  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 07:05 pm
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ronjohnx11
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My auger motor runs intermittingly or not at all.    Connected to a 120v power source and motor runs fine.     Replace solenoid but motor still not running.    After setting around for awhile the motor runs and then refuses to operate after a couple of hours.    Can't figure out what to do next.    HELP!!!

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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 07:10 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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Are you getting 120 V to the motor (with the motor connected) ?



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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 07:30 pm
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ronjohnx11
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Whats the best way to check if I'm getting 120v to the motor AND if I'm not what do I check?????      Thanks appl.tech

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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 07:44 pm
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ronjohnx11
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Connected Voltmeter to wires coming from solenoid.    My VM indicatges I'm only getting about 75 volts.    74.4 the first time and 74.8 the second time.   NOW WHAT???     Thanks again appl.tech

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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 08:01 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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The sloinoid is only for cubed ice, doesn't effect the auger motor. You should still have 120 at the coil when calling for cubed ice.
If your only getting. Volts in the 70's then you have either bad wiring or a bad switch. Let me do some checking.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 08:23 pm
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ronjohnx11
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Thanks appl.tech.    BTW,  I don't know if this has anything to do with the auger motor but I don't get any crushed ice.    The switch for crushed ice stopped working some time ago and I still got cubed ice.    Crushed ice was not a necessity but ice cubes are in Florida.

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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 11:12 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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check the connector on top of the freezer hinge and make sure the connection is tight as well as item #72 and # 39 on the diagram. I dont have a schematic for this unit. maybe you have one behind your front kick plate.








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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 12:28 am
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ronjohnx11
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No schematic behind front kickplate. Connector on top of freezer hinge tight. How do I get to items #72 and #39 and how do I check them. Will continuity suffice or do I need voltage reading. Thanks appl.tech for you help and assitance. This junk is killing me...........

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 12:44 am
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appl.tech.29501
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The front panel just pops off, grab it by the bottom and pull out. You can check continuity on #39 but you really need to find out where the voltage is dropping.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 12:48 am
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appl.tech.29501
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When you remove the front there are 4 screws to remove to get to the switch and board. You may want to also turn the water supply off so you don't accidently trigger the water dispenser with the assembly and get water everywhere.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 01:20 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Start with the harness connector at the top freezer door hinge-- that's the most common troublemaker for your complaint.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 03:21 am
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ronjohnx11
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The harness connector on the top of the freezer door has four pins, what should I expect from these in terms of voltage and/or continuity.    From left to right what pin is ground etc...etc.      Thanks for your help.    Any chance of finding a schematic out in cyberspace somewhere????????

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 01:06 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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What colors are the wires on top of the door hinge? I'll try and find a diagram later today.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 06:31 pm
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ronjohnx11
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Left to right the colors are: Orange, Gray, Black, Blue, Purple.     Thanks for all your help.

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 06:53 pm
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the most common cause for this problem is the door switch. sometimes there are two switches. one for the light and one for the dispensor so look closely. the second most common cause is a bad time delay module (the circuit board in the fountain with the switches that select crushed cubed etc. #39 above) if the time delay module is bad it will usually have obvious burn marks on it.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 07:14 pm
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ronjohnx11
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How do I get to the time delay module circuit board?     The front on the water/ice dispenser is plactic and I'm afraid if I pull to hard it will break.     Any hints would be appreciated.............................THANKS

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 07:47 pm
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ronjohnx11
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Got to the time delay module OK.     It looks pretty good i.e. no burn marks or indications of shorts.    What do I check for voltage and/or continuity? What about the actuator the opens the ice chute door, contiuity or voltage readings?

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 08:21 pm
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ronjohnx11
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I suspect the cradle actuator switch, item 72 above.    Is there anyway to verify this item is at fault.    After cleaning and checking all connections and putting everyting back I had crushed ice and ice dispensing for a second.    After one press of the actuator button it stopped working.   Could the solenoid, item 36 above be the culprit????   I can't really tell what I'm dealing with from the drawing above.

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 11:15 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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You can check item # 72 with your meter, disconnect the wires and check continuity. Watch how your meter responds as you actuate the switch (this is best done with an analog meter) the actuator shouldn't feel flakey, should have a nice click to it.



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