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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Electric Dryer: SDE515DAYW -- ran great, now suddenly won't run.

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Maytag Electric Dryer: SDE515DAYW -- ran great, now suddenly won't run.  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Sep 19th, 2010 07:56 pm
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helpmebehandy
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 Dude you are THE MAN! So I asked at least 3 people and they all said if I get the light on then the power is fine, and I didn't have the tester at the time.

So I just tested it and here's what I get:

From Line1 to Neutral: 120v
From Line 2 to Neutral: About 40v
From Line 1 to Line 2: about 40V

So it does appear to be the power. Could it just be the breaker fuse?
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 Posted: Sun Sep 19th, 2010 08:11 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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 yep or a bad wire or outlet.



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 Posted: Sun Sep 19th, 2010 08:42 pm
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helpmebehandy
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 Ok I'm uploading the photos I just took of my breaker to test. I'm looking on the web to make sure I know how to test, but if you could help me out a bit more I'd be ever so grateful.

Here's the breaker the outlet is connected to (I've labeled the wires A thru F)



Now this breaker actually comes OFF of my main house breaker, meaning it sits between the outlet and the house breaker box (this is the one I had ran close to the dryer).

I'm guessing the Red (A & F)) and Black (B & E) are both 120V, and the White the ground? Is this a correct assumption?

How should I go about testing it with a volt meter?

I also have a photo of the outlet just in case the type means anything:




Thanks so much for your assistance!

Helen
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 Posted: Sun Sep 19th, 2010 08:43 pm
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helpmebehandy
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 And you can be certain I WILL make a donation. Well worth it!
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 Posted: Sun Sep 19th, 2010 08:51 pm
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helpmebehandy
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 Just adding a bit extra info here (I can't edit my posts) On the outlet here's the exact readings:

A to B - 120v
A to C - 60v
B to C - about 170V.
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 Posted: Sun Sep 19th, 2010 09:18 pm
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 on you breaker picture If D,E,F are the wires going to the outlet then there should be 240VAC across E and F when the breaker is in the "on" position.

If there is then it's the outlet or the wiring to the outlet that is bad.



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 Posted: Sun Sep 19th, 2010 11:13 pm
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helpmebehandy
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 appl.tech.29501 is my hero. That's exactly what is was, I tested the breaker and it was getting really odd numbers, sometimes 40, sometimes 60, sometimes nothing.

So I checked the incoming wires and it was the same odd voltage. Checked the main breaker and it looked fine, but after I pulled it out noticed one of the 30amp fuse's base where it touches the bar was fried looking.

Got a replacement, slapped it in, dryer came right on seems to be running perfectly.

I'm SO glad you responded to this JJ -- I literally made an order for a new one last night! I'm gonna do some laundry right now make sure that new motor performs! :)

Least I know this darn dryer in and out now, should keep this fella runnin for awhile.

I can't thank you enough. Donation made.

Helen
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 Posted: Sun Sep 19th, 2010 11:36 pm
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 :party::cheers::rockband::rockband:
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 Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 12:25 am
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 Glad to help :)



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 Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 01:44 pm
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 If the buss bars that the breaker clamps onto are all arched and pitted you are going to be replacing the breaker again.

If you have another open spot in the breaker box that will fit the double 220 volt breaker it would be best to move it to that open space and not use the space where the arched buss bar is.

How about some pictures of the main breaker box with the breaker removed so as we can see how badly arched the buss bar is?

Last edited on Mon Sep 20th, 2010 01:45 pm by Budget Appliance Repair



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