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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore electric dryer, model 110.60902990 shuts off after a few minutes.

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Kenmore electric dryer, model 110.60902990 shuts off after a few minutes.  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 03:14 pm
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hoptoad



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On any cycle, with or without heat, it will run for 5 or 10 minutes, then shut off. It acted just like a bad motor. No grind noise on start up, but shut off just like a bad motor does and would not come on, again, in any cycle, for a few minutes. So, I replace the motor. Still shuts down after a few minutes. Nothing is caught in the blower or drum, rollers, door switch, etc, all fine. There is not thermistor. I'm wondering if it's the board, but don't want to "guess", as I know they are not cheap. I also checked the sensors in the drum and they checked out ok (don't these only sense in the "perma-press" cycle?"). I'm befuddled. Help. :headscratch:

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 Posted: Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 06:23 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Does the Timer continue to run when it stops ?

Will it re-start and and contiune to run at all if you push The Start Button
(without moving the Timer from where it stopped) ?



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 Posted: Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 06:50 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Try the Armstrong Pec-flex test: open the door and turn the drum just a bit. How strong do you have to make your arm to get the drum started turning. Should be easy to turn. If you have to make your arm strong and flex your pecs to get the drum to move, then there's a rolling resistance problem, maybe a bad drum roller.

The other things to look at is to see if the motor is continuing to get voltage when it cuts out. Can make the measurement at the control board but you'll need the wiring diagram. Do you have it?

Last edited on Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 06:52 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Tue Aug 24th, 2010 01:15 pm
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hoptoad



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The drum turns easily. I lose voltage to the motor. It will not restart for about 5 minutes (without moving the timer). I do have the wiring diagram. I seem to be losing voltage from the control board, but is it the board, or something telling the board that the cycle is done? There are no indications on the board that anything is fried, but I know that doesn't mean it's good.

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 Posted: Tue Aug 24th, 2010 01:23 pm
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If this has the even heat board then its bad as long as the motor relay is ok



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 Posted: Tue Aug 24th, 2010 02:30 pm
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hoptoad



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I'm going back to look at it today, but I don't think it's the "even heat" board. This one sits clear to the right side of the control area. There are no relays for the motor and heat.

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 Posted: Tue Aug 24th, 2010 02:51 pm
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hoptoad



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Crap, I mean LEFT side, when facing the machine.

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 Posted: Tue Aug 24th, 2010 05:09 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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hoptoad wrote: .. I lose voltage to the motor. ..

determined by measuring the voltage ?



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 Posted: Thu Aug 26th, 2010 07:02 am
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hoptoad



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Took the electronic board clear out of the control panel to take a closer look and found discoloration under 2 of the components. I had looked at it initially, but after I got it out, and the dust blown off, I could see the problem. Silly me. I had never had this symptom of a motor cutting off the way this one did that it wasn't a bad motor. Live and learn. Thanks for your help everyone.

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 Posted: Thu Aug 26th, 2010 08:53 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Weirdness... I've not seen one of those little control boards cause trouble.



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 Posted: Thu Aug 26th, 2010 12:22 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: Weirdness... I've not seen one of those little control boards cause trouble.
I can pretty much guarantee you that it not causing his problem!!!!

That is just the auto dryness sensor board and the only function is to watch the sensor for shorts to ground (wet clothes) and advance the timer motor when it hasn't sensed any wet clothes for a certain amount of time.

It has absolutely nothing to do with the motor running.  Almost has to be a bad timer, (bad contract points to motor circuit, points overheat and can't pass current any more?).   I would say bad motor would be the more likely suspect but you said you already replaced the motor.  Was it a new motor you replaced it with?

You need to wire the motor direct, (just two wires on a test cord), and see if it shuts down.

If you  have checked and are actually losing voltage to the motor when it stops, then its got to be the timer or a broken wire losing connection somewhere.

Last edited on Thu Aug 26th, 2010 12:26 pm by Budget Appliance Repair



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 Posted: Thu Aug 26th, 2010 01:05 pm
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I had a thermal fuse do this a while back. I read 0 volts across it and then once the motor cut out, I read 30 volts. after it  cooled down, the fuse tested ok. Try replacing it.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 08:06 am
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hoptoad



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Brand-spanking new motor, exact same symptoms after replacement. I will try checking the thermal cutoff although I've never found one doing that. They either worked or they didn't, so I didn't consider that. I wondered about the timer but am not quite sure from the wiring diagram how it interacts with the board. I had never had a timer drop out quite like that before though. Initially, it had "bad motor" written all over it by the symptoms, but I know now not to jump to THAT conclusion again.

Oh...and this "he" is a she. :D

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 10:10 am
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Dryness Board doesn't control the Drum Motor,
but the Timer, Thermal Fuse, and Belt Switch does.

Is the Drum Motor hot when it stops ?

110.60902990 Wiring Diagram



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 01:47 pm
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hoptoad



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I will do some more checking, but the sensor board does have discoloration around two adjacent components like I've found on other defective boards. It makes sense that this board would only control sensed dry, but I wasn't sure from the wiring diagram.

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