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Kenmore 106.73182302, 106.73192302  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 12:49 pm
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J.C. Beat
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Purchased about 7 years ago.

Her is compressor info

Embraco EMY 60 Her R134A

H03uR980

513308529

 
Here are the resistance readings on the compressor pins with the pins facing you.

Bottom right to bottom left 10

Bottom right to top 2

Bottom left to top 8

Also tested any pin to groung and got infinite.

Is the compressor ok ?

Coincidently, I think the fridge malfunction began yesterday after we had a nasty storm with lightning with electric power going off and on (power surges) - could this have damaged any of the computer boards or something else that caused the problem ?

 

Thank You

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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 03:10 pm
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vee8power
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Did you read the refrigerator troubleshooting flow chart at the top of the kitchen appliance page? Look there. Does the evaporator fan in the freezer run and the condenser fan by the compressor run? If so then the overload and/or relay is your problem, they probably rattle when you shake 'em. Those are the parts attached to those three pins you ohmed out. Check for voltage on the two wires to those parts. If there's 120 volts there, then there's your problem. If not, then there's more looking to do like the cold control and defrost control.

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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 06:06 pm
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J.C. Beat
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The fan next to the compressor runs. Did not check the  other fan  yet - I assume its in the freezer.

The "overload" does not rattle and I dont know how to check it. Can you tell me how.

The start relay does rattle but only when shake up and down. But I checked it using the procedure explained at  http://www.ehow.com/how_4504012_test-refrigerators-compressor-relay.html and based on that test I think its OK.  (No prong is labelled L but the prongs labelled 3, 4 behave as if its an "L". So I am guessing its not the relay.)

Are the  compresser ohm reading in the correct range ? Can I  hook up a wire to any  compresser prong, and another wire to a different compressor prong and plug into outlet and the compresser should start ?  

Thank You

 

 

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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 06:11 pm
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J.C. Beat
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I am pretty sure there is 120volts going into the relay and overload, but not sure what is coming out.  Should I hook them outside the fridge to an outlet like I suggested for the compressor - then you can check if voltage comes out.

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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 06:30 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Compressor OHMs is OK

most Start Relays shouldn't rattle (I've been told some do)

106.73182302 Tech Sheets

Compressor Test Cord Diagram is from SubZero 506 Service Manual





here's one from Amana Service Manual


Attached Image (viewed 24 times):





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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 07:21 pm
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vee8power
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I use an RCO410 hard start kit:
 http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-RCO410-%3d%3di965237&PartID=965237
I wire nut an appliance cord to the input side of the hard start and, on your fridge, the black wire to the top pin on the compressor, the white to the bottom left, and the red to the bottom right. If you have a clamp-on ammeter, put it around one of the wires from the test cord. Plug it in and see if the compressor starts and watch the meter. The first couple of seconds after the compressor starts, it should draw something around 9 amps then go back down to something like 1.2- 2 amps. If this is the case, this part will almost certainly solve your problem. You can splice the hard start kit into the wires of your refrigerator, or, if you prefer, get the O.E.M start device for it.

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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 07:46 pm
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J.C. Beat
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I have continuity across the 2 prongs infront of the overload device. From front of device to rear, no continuity. I think this means overload is OK.

So it seems "compressor, overload, relay" might be OK. Then what else might prevent compresser from starting ? Could it be the Adaptive Defrost Control and is there a way to test that with a voltage, amm, resitance meters. 

 

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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 07:52 pm
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J.C. Beat
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Are you sure about using a 3 in 1 for this compressor. A repair shop told me it can damage the compressor

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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 07:59 pm
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This may be a dumb question but what is the purpose of the momentary switch in the diagram?

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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 08:02 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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J.C. Beat wrote: I have continuity across the 2 prongs infront of the overload device. From front of device to rear, no continuity. I think this means overload is OK.

So it seems "compressor, overload, relay" might be OK. Then what else might prevent compresser from starting ? Could it be the Adaptive Defrost Control and is there a way to test that with a voltage, amm, resitance meters. 

 


This is your overload..you should have continuity form the male gold terminal to the female round silver terminal that plugs onto the compressor. Do not install a hard start until we know whats going on.




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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 08:25 pm
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J.C. Beat
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No continuity between any of the 2 golds to female round silver.

I have been up all night. So that must mean overload is no good !

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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 08:36 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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correcta mundo, its bad

come and get her Over load Link or you may want to replace the relay at the same time (recommended)

Cross your fingers...sometimes they just go bad, usually they go bad when the compressors are drawing alot of amps or are shorted to ground...you may not be out of the woods yet but you do need a new one to proceed.



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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 08:57 pm
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J.C. Beat
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Good news - I hard wired the red wire on fridge to the compresser top pin and I think the compressor kicked on - its very very quiet but if put screwdriver metal to compresser and its plastic handle to your ear you can sense a humm thats not there when when red wire goes to overload. Right now I am waiting to see if fridge gets cold.

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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 09:41 pm
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J.C. Beat
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I am guessing it was that lightning that caused power surges, because on that day the problem started. Of course could be a coincidence. 

I did test for continuity from any compressor pin to the ground and there was  not any continuity.

Freezer temperature lowered from 42 degrees Faren. to 30 degrees  in a half hour. :). Copper coils are hot to the touch.

But Fridge section did not really change from its 59 degrees. Fan in freeze compartment is blowing, but this maybe because it take a while till the cold air travels down. 

I dont want to cause a fire or possibly break the compressor, but would it be ok to hard wire for say an  hour and a half as I have done off/on and bypass the overload until parts arrive, also add dry ice ? Maybe use a surge protector ? Otherwise all food will spoil. 

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 Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 09:49 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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yes you can leave it hard wired...only long enough to see if its going to cool properly...I would not leave the house with it like that. If you have an appliance parts place or used appliance dealer in your area they should have an over load. Any overload that looks like the one you have will work..don't be concerned with part #'s.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 22nd, 2010 12:17 am
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J.C. Beat
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:(

I had hard wired it in total for about 40 minutes. The compressor did get hot.

Disconnected it to rig up a 15 amp fuse in the hard wired red wire, to help protect the compresser until part arrived.

Well now I think compressor is damaged.

With compresser facing you

Bottom right pin to top pin infinite ohms.

Bottom left  pin to top pin infinite ohms.
 
Between 2 bottom pins 1 ohm.
 
I think this means the compressor is toast.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


 
 

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 Posted: Sun Aug 22nd, 2010 12:19 am
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J.C. Beat
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However any compressor pin to ground is infinite ohms.

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 Posted: Sun Aug 22nd, 2010 03:22 am
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appl.tech.29501
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yep, time to go shopping :(

It wasn't anything you did, it was on its way out



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 Posted: Sun Aug 22nd, 2010 05:36 am
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J.C. Beat
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Your job is tough. U check the compressor looks ok, check the overload it looks bad, replace it and the next day fridge malfunctions, cutomer complains and calls U a cheat.  But dont take it personaly because many people know it ain't true. Something similar happened to my car for about $1,500 repair job, then the problem was not fixed. I really believe the mechanic tried his best and felt sorry the repair failed.

So is this what probably happened ? the compressor was going bad, started to draw too much amps, blew the overload. But by hardwiring to the compresser it got its execessive amps and burned out. If I had put the 15 amp fuse in initially it probably would have blown the fuse.

Thank you very much for the assistance.

P.S. I support the World Wildlife Fund and Nature Conservancy. The Sea Shepherds are also trying to protect Whales (not sure about dolphins).  U are doing what most people should be doing - trying to save wildlife and the environment. I get depressed at the abysmil slow progress being made.  

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 Posted: Sun Aug 22nd, 2010 02:59 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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It may have not blown a 15 amp fuse, generally I always check the compressor amp draw with a clamp meter anytime I replace overload or relay. If the compressor runs consistantly over 3.5 amps I tell the customer to start getting prepared for the inevitable.

you may find that once the compressor cooled down completely the the resistance will change again, and it may even start again. But, still time to go shopping.



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