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LG DLG5988W won't dry...  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Aug 16th, 2010 07:02 pm
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fordwhupper
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Hello all. Great forum!!!

I have a 2005 model lg dlg5988W gas dryer. It quit drying altogether about a week ago. There are no codes when I do a self test and the dryer and blower both spin. I got a service manual online for it and did the troubleshooting and it's leading me to replace the controller (CPU I guess?).

I tested all 3 thermostats and they had continuity at room temperature with none of them having open circuits. The ignitor and flame detect sensor also passed their tests as well. The wiring is good as far as I can tell. Both gas valve coils passed their tests at about 1800 ohms too.

The next step in the troubleshooting is to replace the controller. A guy on a forum said that if the controller is bad, it won't send voltage to the gas valve. I didn't see a specific test for the controller in the troubleshooting.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks.

Dave

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 Posted: Mon Aug 16th, 2010 07:25 pm
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kdog
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best bet is to run it until it fails and then check for power to the gasvalve at that time, just cause the coils pass a resistance test dosn't always mean it hasn't failed. I am assuming you can start and run the dryer - listen for any clicking or flame sounds in the lower part of machine



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 Posted: Wed Aug 18th, 2010 05:48 am
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john63

 

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RegusPatoff & I grappled with this on another forum recently.

Some new information has come to light since then.

On a recent service call---I had an LG gas dryer with a *no heat* complaint---all components checked out fine.

As I was testing the NUMBER 2 gas valve coil for 90 volts from the MAIN BOARD (inserting the test meter leads into the gas valve coil plug) the gas burner began functioning.

The plug at the GAS VALVE COIL (there are two sets for coil no.1 and another for coil no.2) was not tight enough--in my case--the number 2 gas valve coil plug was too loose.

I removed both plugs from the gas coils and slightly bent the plug connectors on the gas valve coils. One slightly downward and the other slightly upward---reconnected the plugs--and the gas burner functioned perfectly.

This should be considered if the following test procedure does NOT identify a cause:

 

The correct sequence of operation for GAS HEAT operation is as follows:

1) FLAME SENSOR must be *closed* (closes at 320F/Opens at 370F)

2) COIL no. 01 is energized (90 VOLTS DC)

3) IGNITOR is energized & glows (120 volts)

4) FLAME SENSOR opens (370F) & IGNITOR begins to turn off

5) COIL no. 02 is energized (90 VOLTS )---Flame Ignites.

If no power is measured at the gas valve coils (90 volts)--replace the MAIN BOARD.


Last edited on Wed Aug 18th, 2010 06:44 am by john63

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 Posted: Sat Aug 28th, 2010 03:18 pm
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fordwhupper
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Hey all thanks for the help. It ended up being the gas valve/coil assembly that was bad. Repairclinic.com, (who is about a half hour away from me in Michigan), has a 30 day money-back policy on all parts (even installed) so I tried the gas valve first and it ended up fixing the problem. Thanks for the last post too with the correct sequence in how the dryer actually fires up.

Dave


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 Posted: Sat Aug 28th, 2010 03:35 pm
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fordwhupper
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Oh yeah.. One more thing. GOTTA love how LG rivets/presses the back of the dryer on so you have to either have to pry or drill the back off to remove the back of the dryer. Then as I put it back together I saw that the rear cover has to be on there pretty good otherwise the drum wont fit on the rollers good enough! I just ended up putting 2 bolts/nuts on each side of the back of the dryer and all is well so far.

Dave

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 Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2010 06:58 am
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john63

 

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<<<Oh yeah.. One more thing. GOTTA love how LG rivets/presses the back of the dryer on so you have to either have to pry or drill the back off to remove the back of the dryer.>>>
 
*****************
 
All repairs to LG dryers are performed through the *front* of the dryer.
 
The only rear-of-dryer service needed would be to install a gas line or power cord and the exhaust vent.
 
The spot welds and / or screws at the rear of the dryer should never be removed **except** to replace the DUCT ASSY.
 
Stainless steel screws at the back of the dryer can be removed to allow disassembly of the back plate (part of the interior of the drum area) and removing / replacing the DUCT ASSY.


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