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hub and seal kit replacement  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Sep 2nd, 2005 04:18 am
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matth
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Amana model #: LW8363WZ
MFG #: PLW8363W2B

A few nights I came home to a washer that had walked itself practically in a circle. The next day, I noticed water under neath while it was running. I took off the front panel and water was coming down from underneath the tub....that would probably mean a new hub and seal right? Based on this "fixitnow" reply: http://fixitnow.com/2004/06/mailbag-amana-washer-leaks.htm

I don't have a lot of confidence that I'll be able to pull off the repair. How much can I expect to pay to have someone else do it?

TIA,
Matt

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 Posted: Fri Sep 2nd, 2005 04:38 am
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Mad Mac
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Blunt answer is close to (or more than) the price of a new one, if you can get someone to do it. I wouldn't take it on....anyone?



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 Posted: Fri Sep 2nd, 2005 12:43 pm
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Moostafa
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Hello, Mac, my mad friend. I recall back in my Mujahideen days when I attempted to repair one of these infernal machines to support our war effort against the God-less Soviets. The effort was so intense that I personally wet myself with a copious flow of urine. I can still feel the sting of the bile as it burned the back of my throat like a camel branding iron. Even as I write this, the intensely unpleasant memories come flooding back to me... speaking of floods, I must go and change my robe. Please excuse me.



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 Posted: Fri Sep 2nd, 2005 03:05 pm
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kdog
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i have to agree with mac, i have had the pleasure of doing this job many times due to warranties and extended service contracts and i honestly can't remember having felt  "good" about any of them, it is a very time consuming job(even if you've become proficient at it),and also very expensive as during the job,you will find a bunch of other things that require replacement such as the clutch pressure plate/throwout bearing looking brake device and brake pads on the bottom,the belt,most likely the small tension spring and maybe the idler and fur sure the snubber ring(teflon)- the cabinet surface will need to be cleaned with alcohol and sanded lightly- it is a gruelling process which simply does not render an accomplished result- unless this machine has some great inherent value to you, go out and obtain a new washing machine and forget it.



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 Posted: Fri Sep 2nd, 2005 03:32 pm
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matth
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Thanks for your replies fellas. In fact I think what looks to be a little white water pump in the front is also leaking. Any recommendations on a new washer? especially when it comes to front load versus top load?

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 Posted: Fri Sep 2nd, 2005 06:58 pm
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Mad Mac
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Top load - Best of the bunch is Whirlpool (Roper, KitchenAid are also Whirlpool brands) or a Whirlpool-built Kenmore (these can be identified by the model number starting in 110.). Simple, as reliable as anything else on the market today, relatively easy to repair for the DIY'er. Steer clear of electronic controls/touchpads etc, stick with the "traditional" timer/switches. Also sold at Costco under the "Kirkland Signature" name - this brand generally carrys a two year standard warranty as opposed to the typical one year, certainly worth considering. Warranty service on all these brands is carried out by Sears (for Kenmore) A&E (a Sears/Whirlpool joint venture) or independent authorised servicers. Sears service has major issues with poor staff morale, can take up to two weeks to get service in some areas.

Maytag - it "ain't your daddy's Maytag" any more. Not what it used to be. Also sold under the "Admiral" brand name at Home Depot. Service generally from independent authorised servicers - maytag may well be taken over by Whirlpool in the near future.

Friggidaire - awkward to repair, poor reliability. Sometimes seen under the "Galaxy" brand name at Sears. Service generally from independent authorised servicers (do Friggidaire have their own service organisation?).

GE (may also be seen as "Hotpoint") - parts grossly overpriced, major transmission issues on these. Avoid at all costs. Service from a mixture of GE's own techs and independent authorised servicers.

Front load - main "plus" with these is that they use a lot less water than top loaders. Bearing issues with Frigidaire (Kenmore starting in 417. and also sometimes seen with a GE label) and Maytag. No reports of this kind of issue as yet with the Whirlpool (Kenmore starting in 110.). Not a lot of info on the European (Bosch) and Asian (LG/Samsung) brands, possible issues with parts/service on these as they are not yet widespread in North America. ALL front loaders have very expensive electronics in them (even though they may not look like it) and mechanical repairs tend to be labour-intensive and expensive, so I strongly recommend investing in some kind of extended warranty plan if you go down the front load road.

"Oddities" - Whirlpool/Kenmore Calypso, and the Maytag with the rotating discs rather than an agitator. Avoid these. Please. For your sake and ours. This public service announcement has been brought to you by the Samurai School of Appliantology.



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 Posted: Sat Sep 3rd, 2005 06:10 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Comment from Bob Sankie:

I generally do this job for about $240

Bob Sankie
Coastal Appliance Heating & Air



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 Posted: Mon Sep 18th, 2006 05:43 am
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allan230
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Late reply -- just came across this.  I did this repair, and did not think it was all that bad.  I ordered the hub seal kit and recommended parts from RepairClinic.com.  I did the repair about three years ago, I guess.  There is significant disassembly work needed to get the parts replaced, and I do recall having to improvise some tools that I did not have, but it did not send me screaming from the room. 

Note that the hub seal is improved in the repair kit compared to the original version -- I  have not had any leaks since.

I do have a new problem with this washer tonight; it's about 8 years old now so really doubting the value of putting new parts into it...but I'll post that separately.

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