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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > 2 yr old GE profile microwave lost power

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2 yr old GE profile microwave lost power  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Jun 28th, 2010 02:21 am
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JOETILE
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GE profile microwave worked fine  for two years, now it is dark, and unresponsive!  Breaker and GFIC are fine, power to the outlet,tried top and bottom outlet.Plugged in hair dryer and it works in outlet.  Is there an internal breaker somewhere?  Had no symptoms of any problem. Just quit.  Thanks for any help. Joe

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 Posted: Mon Jun 28th, 2010 02:24 am
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JOETILE
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BTW model # JVM 1750, built Feb 08

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 Posted: Mon Jun 28th, 2010 11:15 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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No Fuse ...  :(

It may be a bad Thermal Cut-Out

click on picture


# 77 in diagram
(right side, near Transformer)




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 Posted: Mon Jun 28th, 2010 11:58 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: No Fuse ...  :(

I don't find a fuse listed in the parts breakdown or anything that looks like the normal microwave fuse in the picture, but I've never worked on a microwave that didn't have a replaceable 15 or 20 amp ceramic fuse.

Part ref# 61 is a cavity TCO which could cause the problem.

Part ref# 114 is a noise filter assembly, (can't find any pictures), fuse maybe on this board.  (Ok, I tried E-bay and found a picture of the noise filter and the fuse is a replaceable fuse on this board).  OEM part# WB02X11200

http://cgi.ebay.com/MICROWAVE-NOISE-FILTER-AND-FUSE-GE-HOTPOINT-WB02X11200-/220374617941

Last edited on Mon Jun 28th, 2010 12:00 pm by Budget Appliance Repair



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 Posted: Mon Jun 28th, 2010 12:24 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: ... I don't find a fuse listed in the parts breakdown or anything that looks like the normal microwave fuse in the picture, but I've never worked on a microwave that didn't have a replaceable 15 or 20 amp ceramic fuse....
no Fuse ...< that did seem odd

thanks Willie ..

that would be # 114 (center of diagram)

yes, white ceramic Fuse



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 Posted: Tue Jun 29th, 2010 11:54 am
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Just a side note: there is no reason to replace the complete board, (unless of coarse fuse holder is bad, loose connections or oxidized from overheating because of loose connections).

Just get a replacement fuse of the same type and amp rating.

There is a very high probability of the fuse blowing immediately on use again so you will have to find out what is blowing the fuse.

Most common cause of blown fuse is bad or intermittently sticking door latch switches.   If the switch hasn't completely failed it may work by just replacing the fuse but it will most likely blow again at any random time when the door is opened or closed.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 29th, 2010 05:54 pm
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JOETILE
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Thank you both for the replies. I went to " Miracle Appliance "in Thousand Oaks, Calif. Fred there seems to be somewhat of a legend in these parts. He not nly usually knows what caused the problem, but oftentimes why, and how the part could have been designed better, etc. He also found that there was no part designated " fuse". He said to look around in there and I would find a fuse on some other board. Then he handed me a fuse and said, if that fixes it, bring back 3 bucks. Pretty great guy. Thanks for the help thus far. I will be taking apart my first Microwave oven in a bit, so I will likely be back here soon! Joe

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 Posted: Tue Jun 29th, 2010 06:03 pm
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JOETILE
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Willie, can I test the microwave before I put it all together again, with it still apart? That thing is pretty heavy?

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 Posted: Tue Jun 29th, 2010 06:47 pm
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Yes, just plug it up and test it with a hlaf a cup of water in it...make sure all you tools and things are out of the way.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 29th, 2010 09:18 pm
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JOETILE
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With everyone's help, I found the fuse exactly where Reggie said and showed in diagram.  Unfortunately( especially for me) the fuse is not blown!  :shock:

  What is next step?  I am having a difficult week. Saturday the AC went out on the Family car, and my      24" IMac died this morrning!!!!

                                        Joe

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 Posted: Tue Jun 29th, 2010 11:27 pm
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You will need to verify if you are getting voltage to the smart board...if its get 120VAC and the display is black then it will have to be replaced. I don't have a schematic for your unit however, if you don't have power at the board....... the power usually runs through a TCO before the board and the connection at that point can become bad as well.



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